How to use lisle 65600
#1
How to use lisle 65600
I have started to prepare myself for the most worry-sum thing with our trucks, a plug change. I've taken preventive measures over the past week and plan on hitting it head on next weekend. I've ran seafoam via the vacuum line off of the booster. Ran Chevron cleaner with the past two tanks of gas and plan on putting more in it (O'reilly has a buy one get one free sale on the chevron). I've purchased the new plugs (sp515) and the lisle 65600 just in case. Now...how in the world do you use the lisle? I'm not quite understanding the whole concept. If someone could explain this, it would be awesome. I have another week to "prepare" and i would like this to go a smooth as possible.
#2
I have started to prepare myself for the most worry-sum thing with our trucks, a plug change. I've taken preventive measures over the past week and plan on hitting it head on next weekend. I've ran seafoam via the vacuum line off of the booster. Ran Chevron cleaner with the past two tanks of gas and plan on putting more in it (O'reilly has a buy one get one free sale on the chevron). I've purchased the new plugs (sp515) and the lisle 65600 just in case. Now...how in the world do you use the lisle? I'm not quite understanding the whole concept. If someone could explain this, it would be awesome. I have another week to "prepare" and i would like this to go a smooth as possible.
#4
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
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I have started to prepare myself for the most worry-sum thing with our trucks, a plug change. I've taken preventive measures over the past week and plan on hitting it head on next weekend.I've ran seafoam via the vacuum line off of the booster. Ran Chevron cleaner with the past two tanks of gas and plan on putting more in it (O'reilly has a buy one get one free sale on the chevron). I've purchased the new plugs (sp515) and the lisle 65600 just in case. Now...how in the world do you use the lisle? I'm not quite understanding the whole concept. If someone could explain this, it would be awesome. I have another week to "prepare" and i would like this to go a smooth as possible.
#5
About 2 hours I'm thinking. What county are you in?
Why do you say that? I hope that helps the plug change..hurt my engine.
Originally Posted by 88racing
You won't have to worry about the plugs or the lisle tool if you keep doing that......especially with seafoam
#7
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See link>>>https://www.f150online.com/forums/3999444-post4.html
Last edited by 88racing; 05-10-2011 at 09:18 AM.
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#8
Here's the procedure I used.
With a cold engine I removed the Cops and cracked the spark plugs 1/8 turn only. I sprayed Seafoam Deep Creep to the top of the jam nut. Moved to the next plug removed cop and cracked it and sprayed. I did this to all 4 on the drivers side. After an hour The Deep creap had not penatrated at all it seemed. I decided to move them another 1/8 and let it sit another hour. At 2 hours still no penetration. Vaccumed the deep creep from the spark plug wells and then sprayed Seafoam penetrating fuild and let it sit for 30 minutes. I then tighted 1/8 turn then loosed a 1/4 all the way out. Screaching almost all the way out on all 4 plugs except #8 left the metal electrode shied and porcelon in the hole. I also removed #1 and 2 on the Pass side but not the back two becuase it was getting late and did not want to remove the computer at that time.
The porcelon had broken flush with the top of the electrode shield so at least I didn't have to break it off in the hole to use the Lisle 65600 tool. When using the Lisle the first time I didn't push the porcelon in far enough so the tool pulled out without the shield. Make note of how many full turn you use once you connect the porcelon. You will diffinantly know when it makes contact. I heard porcelon breaking and it scared me to death. I made 7 full turns on the pusher tool I beleave and once I removed the broken piece from the motor I about crapped my pants. The porcelon had almost pushed thru the bottom of the loop on the metal sheild. If I have to do this again on the last 2 plugs I will only use 5 or 5 1/2 full turns instead. The Lisle tool works great and I had plenty of double about it in before I used the tool.
Now I could tell the Seafoam had done some good but remeber mine broke before any fiuld could penatrate. There absolutly no doult in my mind when it broke becuase I felt my rachet pop in my hand at 1/8 turn at starting to break it loose. There's not one thing that I could have done any differant to prevent this from happening. Sometimes **** Happens.
More on this later after I change the other 2 plugs. That overdrive miss I had is now gone and I was going to buy the new cops but deciced to wait until I had the miss with the new plugs.
#9
It's pretty simple to use. I was nervous too when I went to use it but it's rather strait forward to use, plus the instructions are easy to understand and have pictures to show you how to use it. I broke #6 7 and 8 on mine and didn't have a problem extracting them. Everyone says they had to use a bunch of universals; I tried using a universal on #4 and took it right back off and put it away. It's a lot easier without it IMO.
#10
Join Date: Apr 2009
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Well that's what I tought. Wrong!!! I had number 8 break on me. I ran Seafoam (1 - 16oz can to 10 to 12 gallons of gas) for 3 times before my spark plug change. When number 8 broke it was right when I was breaking it loose at 1/8 turn. I felt it snap. What a crappy feeling. Note, you will need an inspection mirror if you have to remove the back spark plugs with the Lisle tool.
Here's the procedure I used.
With a cold engine I removed the Cops and cracked the spark plugs 1/8 turn only. I sprayed Seafoam Deep Creep to the top of the jam nut. Moved to the next plug removed cop and cracked it and sprayed. I did this to all 4 on the drivers side. After an hour The Deep creap had not penatrated at all it seemed. I decided to move them another 1/8 and let it sit another hour. At 2 hours still no penetration. Vaccumed the deep creep from the spark plug wells and then sprayed Seafoam penetrating fuild and let it sit for 30 minutes. I then tighted 1/8 turn then loosed a 1/4 all the way out. Screaching almost all the way out on all 4 plugs except #8 left the metal electrode shied and porcelon in the hole. I also removed #1 and 2 on the Pass side but not the back two becuase it was getting late and did not want to remove the computer at that time.
The porcelon had broken flush with the top of the electrode shield so at least I didn't have to break it off in the hole to use the Lisle 65600 tool. When using the Lisle the first time I didn't push the porcelon in far enough so the tool pulled out without the shield. Make note of how many full turn you use once you connect the porcelon. You will diffinantly know when it makes contact. I heard porcelon breaking and it scared me to death. I made 7 full turns on the pusher tool I beleave and once I removed the broken piece from the motor I about crapped my pants. The porcelon had almost pushed thru the bottom of the loop on the metal sheild. If I have to do this again on the last 2 plugs I will only use 5 or 5 1/2 full turns instead. The Lisle tool works great and I had plenty of double about it in before I used the tool.
Now I could tell the Seafoam had done some good but remeber mine broke before any fiuld could penatrate. There absolutly no doult in my mind when it broke becuase I felt my rachet pop in my hand at 1/8 turn at starting to break it loose. There's not one thing that I could have done any differant to prevent this from happening. Sometimes **** Happens.
More on this later after I change the other 2 plugs. That overdrive miss I had is now gone and I was going to buy the new cops but deciced to wait until I had the miss with the new plugs.
Here's the procedure I used.
With a cold engine I removed the Cops and cracked the spark plugs 1/8 turn only. I sprayed Seafoam Deep Creep to the top of the jam nut. Moved to the next plug removed cop and cracked it and sprayed. I did this to all 4 on the drivers side. After an hour The Deep creap had not penatrated at all it seemed. I decided to move them another 1/8 and let it sit another hour. At 2 hours still no penetration. Vaccumed the deep creep from the spark plug wells and then sprayed Seafoam penetrating fuild and let it sit for 30 minutes. I then tighted 1/8 turn then loosed a 1/4 all the way out. Screaching almost all the way out on all 4 plugs except #8 left the metal electrode shied and porcelon in the hole. I also removed #1 and 2 on the Pass side but not the back two becuase it was getting late and did not want to remove the computer at that time.
The porcelon had broken flush with the top of the electrode shield so at least I didn't have to break it off in the hole to use the Lisle 65600 tool. When using the Lisle the first time I didn't push the porcelon in far enough so the tool pulled out without the shield. Make note of how many full turn you use once you connect the porcelon. You will diffinantly know when it makes contact. I heard porcelon breaking and it scared me to death. I made 7 full turns on the pusher tool I beleave and once I removed the broken piece from the motor I about crapped my pants. The porcelon had almost pushed thru the bottom of the loop on the metal sheild. If I have to do this again on the last 2 plugs I will only use 5 or 5 1/2 full turns instead. The Lisle tool works great and I had plenty of double about it in before I used the tool.
Now I could tell the Seafoam had done some good but remeber mine broke before any fiuld could penatrate. There absolutly no doult in my mind when it broke becuase I felt my rachet pop in my hand at 1/8 turn at starting to break it loose. There's not one thing that I could have done any differant to prevent this from happening. Sometimes **** Happens.
More on this later after I change the other 2 plugs. That overdrive miss I had is now gone and I was going to buy the new cops but deciced to wait until I had the miss with the new plugs.
Best results from my shops procedure....816 plugs done.....and we're up to 27 broken ones....that's using techron in two tanks beforehand and an impact on a slightly warm motor...with the carb cleaner soaking an hour on the 1/8 turn loose plugs....
and most of the broken ones have happened when cracking them an 1/8 turn to start the soaking....
#11
Hopefully you changed your oil when yer done...
Best results from my shops procedure....816 plugs done.....and we're up to 27 broken ones....that's using techron in two tanks beforehand and an impact on a slightly warm motor...with the carb cleaner soaking an hour on the 1/8 turn loose plugs....
and most of the broken ones have happened when cracking them an 1/8 turn to start the soaking....
Best results from my shops procedure....816 plugs done.....and we're up to 27 broken ones....that's using techron in two tanks beforehand and an impact on a slightly warm motor...with the carb cleaner soaking an hour on the 1/8 turn loose plugs....
and most of the broken ones have happened when cracking them an 1/8 turn to start the soaking....
No, I havn't changed the oil yet. Acutally I have under a 1000 miles on this oil change. The stuff I used is Seafoam spray which is acutully designed to spray in your air intake system. I did use the Seafoam deep creap which is a penetrating fuild but ended up vaccuuming it out before it was inside the motor. This Saturday the other 2 will be removed and I will change the oil for good measure.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray.html
#12
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
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Personally I beleave the cheap no-additive fuel is to blame. When using Chevron or Shell or any major brand fuel with additives I beleave you would be less likly to break one due to a cleaner motor. Think of like this, Pay me now or pay me later, Buy the Better gas or buy the removal tool later.
No, I havn't changed the oil yet. Acutally I have under a 1000 miles on this oil change. The stuff I used is Seafoam spray which is acutully designed to spray in your air intake system. I did use the Seafoam deep creap which is a penetrating fuild but ended up vaccuuming it out before it was inside the motor. This Saturday the other 2 will be removed and I will change the oil for good measure.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray.html
No, I havn't changed the oil yet. Acutally I have under a 1000 miles on this oil change. The stuff I used is Seafoam spray which is acutully designed to spray in your air intake system. I did use the Seafoam deep creap which is a penetrating fuild but ended up vaccuuming it out before it was inside the motor. This Saturday the other 2 will be removed and I will change the oil for good measure.
http://www.seafoamsales.com/sea-foam-spray.html
#13
I like working on my truck just as much as the next guy, but I have always know breaking plugs or striping the threads is REALLY bad. My truck is at about 55,000 miles. Pretty sure the original plugs are still in it (bought the truck used from a dealer at 35,000). How much does it cost to have ford do the spark plug change? And if they break anything, will I have to pay for it? I know its a cop out, but I really need my truck in good running condition.
#14
I like working on my truck just as much as the next guy, but I have always know breaking plugs or striping the threads is REALLY bad. My truck is at about 55,000 miles. Pretty sure the original plugs are still in it (bought the truck used from a dealer at 35,000). How much does it cost to have ford do the spark plug change? And if they break anything, will I have to pay for it? I know its a cop out, but I really need my truck in good running condition.
#15
I like working on my truck just as much as the next guy, but I have always know breaking plugs or striping the threads is REALLY bad. My truck is at about 55,000 miles. Pretty sure the original plugs are still in it (bought the truck used from a dealer at 35,000). How much does it cost to have ford do the spark plug change? And if they break anything, will I have to pay for it? I know its a cop out, but I really need my truck in good running condition.
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Jim
Jim