Tested switch seemed to test ok, took door panel off, reversed motor polarity now window will go down not up. Put it back together, grabbed the boot for the wire that go to the door and moved them around while holding the switch down and not even a nudge of movement. Never had any issue what so ever with the windows. It went to working 100 % to not doing down at all.

I don't want to cut unto the boot to check the wires in-between the truck and door, its hard to get to the wires with out cut into the boot. I don't believe the problem is there, but not ruling it out.

My question is what is the next logical step in finding the problem? The switch is good, the motor is good? any ideas what to look at next?

Am I over looking something simple?. I'm in NY and it is suber cold and did not spend too much time trouble shooting.

I tested the drivers side switch with a continuity tester, all seemed fine.

Thanks for any help!

George

1997 f150 XLt reg cab

 

You say the switch "seems to test ok". Either it tested good or it did not test good.

When you access the motor directly, can you make it go up and down by applying power directly to the motor ( you only mention 1 direction ).

If you are going from the driver's side switch to the driver's side window, no need to look at the rubber boot from the door to the a-pillar, the power and ground are in the door ( at least that is how the thread read to me ).

If you have power at the switch, and the window does not move in 1 direction, either the switch or the motor is the cause.

 

I mentioned the switch seemed good because I did a continuity test on the pins of the switch, all pins worked when push up,down, and auto. But I did not know if there was a better test.

Motor does move up and down with power to the motor reversed. I unplugged the connector and used a jumper to reverse polarity. Now I can move the window down, but would not go up. Reverse it again and the window will go up not down.

Is there a better way to test the switch? To me it points to the switch, but the continuity test showed good? And never had a problem with the switch. I can hear the relay click when pushing the up button, but no clicking when trying to lower the window. I'm 100% sure the motor is good, I can get it to move up and down smooth and quietly with reversing the connector at the motor.

Thanks,

Geo

 

Can I just unplug the switch and at the connector put a fused jumper on 12v pin and one at a time connect each ot the other pins to see if I can get it to rais and lower? This seems like it would tell me if it's the switch if I can get it to move up and down. Out of all the post on window switches I have not seen this mentioned. Any reason not to do this? The connector has 4 pins, one 12v one for up one for down, and one for auto down. If it works that way...I could be sure it's the switch.

Geo

 

If you can make the motor work both directions, it is the switch.

Not sure what pins are you testing, but this is the test chart for it.


The motor works fine, you have power to the switch, the other other 2 things are the wires to the motor and the switch. When you install the jumper to test the motor, is this at the pigtail connector on the motor or at the switch ?

I am having trouble following the description that you give for the switch, so I cannot comment on what you are talking about with it.

 

I was talking about the window switch on the door panel. If I unplug the connector from the window switch and jump the 12v pin to the up or down pin or auto down pin I should get the motor to move if the switch is the problem. I was just wondering if there was any problem doing this test? Basically using the jumper as the switch. Seems so easy, I just don't want to cause any other problems.

I took the door panel off and used a jumper at the 2 wire connector hooked to the motor, I can rais and lower the window by reversing the polarity at the motor. The motor is good, moves smooth and quiet.

I will remove the switch and do the test above. Thank you.

I don't remember the pins in the switch being numbered, is there a diagram that is numbered? Going to pull the switch now.

No numbers on pins, drivers switch pins are
Lhu
Auto
B+
lhd

Passenger
Led+
g-
led-
Rhu
Rhd

No numbers to follow above diagram.


Thanks,

Geo

Geo

 

Anyone have a diagram that shows what number the pins are in the above connector? I want to test it following the above diagram, but my connector has no numbers on the pins. Please.... It's been sitting on my kitchen Table for days.

Thanks for any help.

Geo

 

Ironically, I'm working on this same issue on my 97 as I get it ready for sale.

A point: The switch does NOT directly control the motor. Instead, it goes to the GEM module where that module controls the motor. Therefore, the necessary wires DO go through the boot into the cabin from the door. I don't know what EVTM the chart in post #5 came from, but it isn't for the 97.

I've got some more work to do on it tomorrow to see why mine crapped out the day I bought a new truck...

 

thank you, I check this every hrs or so. I just want to find out if its the switch before buying another one.

Geo

 

Here's the schematics:



Here's the pin-out of C509 (Driver's door window switch harness connector)



When looking at your photo, pin number one of the drivers-side switch is in the lower right. To check with an ohmmeter, place one lead on pin 4 (UL in photo). With switch in the UP Position, continuity should be between pins 4 and 2 (UR). With the switch in partial down, pin 4 to pin 1 (LR). Fully down, Pin 4 to 3 (LL).

It will be late afternoon or evening before I get to play with it some more, if at all today.

 

I will check it when I get home from work. Thank you!!!

 

Thank you for the info,

On my switch, your last 2 steps were reversed. I get continuity Between 4 and 3 at partial down And between 4 and 1 fully down.

Now I'm really confused

What do you think?.

Thank you again for all the help.

 

Hmmmm. Don't know. I put my door back together yesterday and I don't know if I'll open it back up. What I posted matches the service manual...

I did try swapping out both the OTD and the accessory delay relays (I used the trailer charge relay as a substitute) to see if it made a difference (it didn't). Right now I'm waiting on my OBDII scanner vendor to get back to me on how to access the secondary ISO bus to so I can see what the GEM module is doing.

 

Should I have continuity at pins 3 and 4 with the switch partial down and fully pressed down?

Geo