Hey guys, I'm new around here. This is my first post, and I was wondering if it was possible to remove and replace the oil pan on the inline 6 with a new one without pulling the engine? I went wheelin a week ago and dented up my oil pan and now I have a pin hole leak. I tried to JB weld it, but it didn't work. Anyway, I bought a new oil pan and I'm not sure if it's possible to remove the oil pan without pulling the engine. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance guys!

-J.W.

 

Nope not possible. You can unbolt it and drop it a couple inches but it won't clear the pump. You don't really have to remove the engine. Just unbolt the ground strap and anything else that is attatched and doesn't have much play. Then remove the motor mount bolts and jack it up using a floor jack and wood block underneath the oil pan. When it's up a few inches stick some wood blocks betwen the frame and motor mounts. Lower the engine onto the blocks and change out the pan.

-Jon

 

Thanks for the help, Jon! I really appreciate it. Is this a very involved project, or do you think I can handle it. I've only owned my truck for a few months. Also, do you know how to replace the left side marker lamp on these trucks? I've removed the windshield washer fluid/radiator overflow tank and still cant get to the bulb. Any help is appreciated. Thanks again!

-J.W.

 

Nevermind, I got it Had to pick up a Hanes manual and then remove two nuts from the back side and pull the entire turn signal/park lamp assembly from the front. All to change a stupid light bulb LOL

-J.W.

 

I did mine in about 3 hours. The above directions are right, but you will also have to remove the radiator. It's not that hard a job.

Take care,
-Chris

 

One important part missing in the Hanes manual for the 92 is that you have to remove the upper part of the intake to get the engine raised up high enough to get the pan out. Once you do that you can slide it out with out removing the pump or pickup. I just finished mine last night.

 

Had a very nasty leak on the side of my oil pan caused by rust. 4.9 engine. Instead of replacing the pan I thought I would give a product called The Right Stuff a try. Had two spots on the side of the pan about the size of quarters which were eaten away by road salt I guess, not all the way through the pan but enough to cause some serious seeping and dripping on the ground. I cleaned the area good, with a wire brush and detergent (first drain the oil) then applied the sealant with a putty knife and let dry. It's been a year since the repair and not a drop yet. Really amazing stuff.

 

Yea, the original plan when I noticed the leak was to apply J.B. weld to the problem area, which I assume is a similar product to "The Right Stuff." When I crawled under my truck the second time I noticed it was dented in several spots, the oil drain plug was stripped and oil was leaking there, and it was rusting in three major spots from the outside in. I started to clean it up with a wire brush, but I found more rust spots and more dents and I determined the pan was non-repairable. Frustrated, I called around to Auto Zone, Adance Auto Parts, NAPA and the local dealer. In contrast to my original thinking, the local Ford dealer was the only place that stocked it AND it was the cheapest price! $83.99, and I bought a Fel-Pro one piece gasket from Auto Zone for $23.99, as well as CNC Brake-Clean to clean the mating surface. The gasket came with these nice keepers that hold the pan and gasket a half inch away from the mating surface, and keeps everything in line, then you snug the other bolts in and take out the keepers, and replace them with the bolts. We had to jack the engine up about 4 or 5 inches to get enough clearane. Overall it took about two days because I've never worked on a Ford before. It was a moderate project, but if I can do it, anyone can do it!

-J.W.