Hello all i am going to change the spark plugs in my truck (2003 5.4). What do i need to know? any help is great!

 

patients, a torque wrench, a swivel socket and several different extensions

 

And that you should use Motorcraft plugs, not plugs from "Joe's Delicatesan & Spark Plugs". And torque 'em to 28 ft lbs, NOT the 14 that Ford originally specified. Blow the holes out with compressed air BEFORE you remove the plugs! Take your time, it's not a big deal as long as you have the right attitude (that way with most things I think).

 

also no anti seize

 

Now that the weather is getting warmer, I need to do the same on my truck. Isn't there a write up somewhere that gives all the tips and tricks?

 

Be prepared for an afternoon-long event. You will have to remove things to get them out of your way. This may include fuel rails, PCV vacuum tubing, EGR sensors, EGR valves, power steering reservoir mount, and more. Just take your time and mark everything as you go along so you don't forget what goes where. If you do remove fuel rails, remember to spray the O-rings with WD40 or other oil-based lube before reinserting the injectors into the rail or engine.

It's not a difficult job, but it does take a while and access is tight in some areas, especially near the firewall, so swivels and extensions will be important, as tarajerame said. A proper "spark plug" socket will also help. I second everything the guys before me said, too. Tighten to 28 lb-ft of torque and no anti-sieze. Make sure to get some dielectric grease for the COP boots. In fact, you may want to look on eBay for a full set of COPs for under $100 (try Global Automotive or Uneek Supply). Depending on your mileage, weather and driving habits it couldn't hurt.

If you want to upgrade the spark, go all the way with Denso Iridium (IT16) plugs; otherwise get Motorcraft plugs, as code58 said. And I've heard using fuel line hose to begin threading the new plugs will help prevent cross-threading, though I've never had a problem with this. I just start it with the extension on the spark plug socket, then attach the wrench after it's started. Same effect.

You'll probably find even more tips or a whole thread if you search the forum. Take your time the first time and when you're done you'll be happy you've done it yourself, know it was done right, and saved $300+.

 

Researching this further...I'm getting conflicting info for the torque value and the use of anti-seize. You guys are saying no to anti seize and use 28ft lbs for the torque?

 

28 lb-ft torque and no anti-seize is correct. The book says something different, but the book is why people were getting plug blow-outs.

 

Don't get confused with the newer 3v 5.4 specs

Nickle plated motorcraft plugs, believe they are sp-479
Torqued to 28ft/lbs DRY no anti seize. Gapped to .54

A lot of other F150 sites still use the conflicting manual/ford specs on the plugs, which had issues with blowing out. I would recommend you use the specs given since they have been proven over and over to be the way to torque them without any further issues with them coming lose.

 

Sounds good to me guys, thanks!

 

Hello.

No one remembered to include this really nice How-To?

==> http://www.mattstruck.com/sparkplugs/sparkplugs.html

Sheesh!


MGD v5.0

 

I've used the instructions in the link above with success with my '03 5.4.

I do suggest to use anti-sieze on the threads when you install your new plugs. Just be careful not to get any on the end. Use Motorcraft platinum plugs and you shouldn't have to worry with the gap. I also don't get worried about hitting the exact torque specs. Snug 'em up good and you'll be fine.

I'd highly suggest that you start with the plugs against the firewall(both sides). You'll find out pretty quick if you've got the tools to do the work. If you can get those plugs out, the others should give you no problems.

Expect to take 2 to 3 hours, taking your time and being careful.

Best of luck.

 

To each his own.
I prefer to use the method proven not to spit them out or damage the heads. With the recommended torque, which if you ask me... on an aluminum head with only what 3? threads... torque would be crucial. I just bought 8 motorcrafts and out of the box they ranged between 48-50 for gap. Close if you ask me, but it takes a $1 gap tool and 30 seconds to gap them all correctly. The last time I thought I snugged them up good by hand, only to later put the torque wrench on them and find out they were over tightened.