switching 5 lug to 6

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Old 04-05-2010, 12:33 AM
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switching 5 lug to 6

Hey guys, I'm bringing this topic up because I'm in need of new rotors and pads for my expy and I just got new wheels which are a 6 lug. My question is since the whole assembly comes off as one piece, can I get new rotors, bearings, pads etc from a 6 lug ford and put them on? Will they go right on without problems? I've got a buddy that says you can but I'm not sure. Its the same price for parts for the 6 lug so I was wondering If i could change it out. I'm just looking to do this on the front btw because my wheels stick out further than the rear due to the lift spindles. If I can get rid of the wheel adapter and just run the rims it would be a lot easier on the bearings. Thanks!
 
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Old 04-06-2010, 10:08 PM
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bump
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:27 AM
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I don't think anyone is going to specifically advise that you do this. Without doing any research myself, I'll give you a couple things to think about:

First, the only way to change the number of lugs out back is to change the axle shaft to one of the new ones with 6 lugs. This would probably be pretty expensive, if it can even be done (need to make sure the number of splines and shaft diameter and length all match)

Second, if you don't change the back to 6-lug, you'll have different wheels front & back? Not sure what the end game is here.

Third, (assuming you have 2WD) the front brake rotor/hub assembly is all one piece, and you could simply replace it with a 6-lug rotor/hub assembly if the spindle geometry was the same (diameter, taper, length, etc). Only way I know to find out for sure is to install one and check to make sure it spins tight and true.

Good luck!
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 03:15 PM
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Thats what I was looking for. I thought the 6 lug for the front was all one piece as well but like you said I'm not sure. If you read through my post I said that my wheels are 6 lug and I wanted to remove the adapters for the front and leave the rear the way it is. My front sticks out further so I wanted to even it out and by doing this I can achieve that, and it will be less stress on the front end. If anyone else knows anything about this I would love to hear your opinion, thanks.
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 05:16 PM
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Guess I'm having trouble understanding what it is you're currently doing or what you want to change to. Pictures might help.

"my wheels are 6 lug"
The wheels you have on now, or the wheels you bought and want to put on?

"the adapters for the front"
Never heard of any 5-lug to 6-lug adapters. Do these bolt to the 5-lug pattern and have a 6-lug pattern on the outside to which the 6-lug wheels are attached? That sounds dangerous, or at least like you said lots of extra stress.

"leave the rear the way it is"
... with 5 lugs and 5-lug wheels, or are you using the 6-lug wheels with the adapter you mentioned before?

Do you want to run all 4 new wheels with 6 lugs, or are you going to mix-n-match 6 lug wheels on front and 5 lug wheels on back? This doesn't seem right, but it's what it sounds like you're going for.

Please remember that we don't know what you're talking about unless you explain it thoroughly. This doesn't sound like a "typical" situation.
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 06:06 PM
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Yeah sorry I read through my post more and I should of been more thorough. What I'm running now is wheel adapters from a 5x135 to 6x135. I also have lift spindles which make the front stick out a little further than the rear. I have to replace rotors, pads, etc. What I wanted to do is convert the front to 6 lug since its all one assembly I figured it would fit. I'm going to leave the rear with the adapters on because like you said you would have to change a lot more. What I was going to do is buy 2wd f150 with the 6 lug rotors pads the whole assembly for the front since it needs to be replaced anyway. This will allow me to remove the adapters up front, making it even with the rear. Think it would work? Let me know if I need to explain something else.
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 06:18 PM
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rear will be easier than the front. just need a nbs expy with the same size rear end as your since the 8.8 and 9.75 didnt change with the nbs (internals) and you can do it when doing your gears
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:28 PM
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Well I know how to do the front but I would have to let someone do the rear so that might just happen when I regear like you stated. I think I'm just gonna go to napa and buy the parts and see if it fits and if it doesn't I'll just take it back.
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Lightning Expo
I think I'm just gonna go to napa and buy the parts and see if it fits and if it doesn't I'll just take it back.
I think that there's gonna' be the only real way to tell. In theory, I agree it should work, assuming nothing big changed with the spindles.

Originally Posted by Lightning Expo
I would have to let someone do the rear so that might just happen when I regear like you stated.
If nothing major (like axle shaft length) changed with the rear axle & diff (as Jake indicates), you can pick up a couple new axle shafts with 6 lug flanges off the internet for $300-$400. Maybe cheaper at a junkyard. Their replacement is a very simple procedure. You'd have to open the pumpkin, but the only internal parts you have to mess with are the C clips. No shims or backlash or anything that makes regearing complicated. You could probably do it with the help of a friend.
 
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Old 04-07-2010, 10:38 PM
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BTW I'm located really close to you, is your truck lifted or anything? I've been around UCF a lot lately.
 
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Old 04-08-2010, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Lightning Expo
BTW I'm located really close to you, is your truck lifted or anything? I've been around UCF a lot lately.
Nah, mine's stock. I'm more of a performance/speed/handling kind of guy, at least for this 2WD "Sport" truck. If anything, I'd been thinking about lowering it. But I really like the ride height exactly where it is. I'll probably look for a 1"/2" drop kit with rear anti-sway bar when I get around to working on the suspension, but I have other stuff to worry about first; just rolled over 150k.

UCF is cool, I still live around the corner. Kept trying to get out of Florida, but it never quite worked! Now I own a house, so I'm pretty well stuck.

If you find yourself in a bind, though, you're welcome to PM me. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and I like a good puzzle.
 
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ucfperspicere
Nah, mine's stock. I'm more of a performance/speed/handling kind of guy, at least for this 2WD "Sport" truck. If anything, I'd been thinking about lowering it. But I really like the ride height exactly where it is. I'll probably look for a 1"/2" drop kit with rear anti-sway bar when I get around to working on the suspension, but I have other stuff to worry about first; just rolled over 150k.

UCF is cool, I still live around the corner. Kept trying to get out of Florida, but it never quite worked! Now I own a house, so I'm pretty well stuck.

If you find yourself in a bind, though, you're welcome to PM me. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, and I like a good puzzle.
Appreciate it man, I'll def do that incase I need help on something. I like to do whatever I can myself like many others on this site. Always up for a challange!
 
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Old 04-14-2010, 11:14 PM
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Ok thought I would update this post incase anyone else is interested. I purchased the rotor assembly for a 2004 f150 6 lug to convert it as many of you know. The hub assembly is different and you cannot convert the 5 to 6 lug. At least not to my knowledge. The rotor fits over the spindle but it is much larger than the spindle shaft. Even with the bearings it will not work.
Cheers
 


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