Here I sit dirty nails and a beer just took a shower after a day of plug changing. What a trip. Couldn't have done it with out info from this site.
Fuel rails I removed them lost a o ring had to buy a kit for $10 the plugs were not a problem I used a magnetic 5/8 long with a swivel attached couldn't have done it with out it, well could of but didn't want to. The biggest problem I had was my own fault I didn't lubricate the o rings on the fuel rail when I went to put it back what a D---. took them back off and the o rings and hit them with WD40 the rail went on like butter. I also lowered the front end but still had a problem with the old metal milk carton holder it kept slipping out from under my feet. Truck has 109K first plug change and now done for 100 K more. The plugs looked almost new. The truck was running like a rapped ape before changing and after just thought it was time and the weather was great. Hope the neighbors forgive me for the langauge and mean mugs. Used OEM motor craft from dealer. Next time like butter. OH!
I also used a little anti seize on the threads.

 

Sounds like a day in paradise. Great job!!

 

shouldnt have used anti seize..and did you torque them? if not you may have one blow out..sounds like you had a hell of a day changing plugs...i never had any problems!

 

THANKS
It was a rough day it wasn't because of the plugs it was my stuff, dropping bolts to hard to reach areas, fuel rail no lube on reinstall, slipping milk carton.

Been doing Mechanical work many years and read a lot of info on antizieze pro and con decided to go with as I have also used it many times over the years. Just a dab

NOTE: The cop's don't float as some people on here would have you believe all mine were solid tight from factory. So don't take every thing here as gospal just take what you need and use your own common sense.

 

Well congrats on getting it done. Just curious though, why did you take the fuel rail out? Just to make the job a little bit easier? Because believe it or not it's not that bad with the fuel rail still in.

 

THANKS
It was a rough day it wasn't because of the plugs it was my stuff, dropping bolts to hard to reach areas, fuel rail no lube on reinstall, slipping milk carton.

Been doing Mechanical work many years and read a lot of info on antizieze pro and con decided to go with as I have also used it many times over the years. Just a dab

NOTE: The cop's don't float as some people on here would have you believe all mine were solid tight from factory. So don't take every thing here as gospal just take what you need and use your own common sense.

 

I have never changed plugs on my F150 so before I started I read up on it and decided to remove it..

NOTE: The next plug change I will remove it also as the little bit of room it provides I think is worth it.
2... 5/16/ bolts and a little prying no problem DW40 on the install.

 

How many times have you changed plugs on a 5.4 F150?? If it's more than 1 you shouldn't have any problems, I know I won't the SECOND TIME.

 

I have a question for you MR. with all the universals and different sockets on such angles going into the head do you really think you can get an accurate torque on the plugs?? If so enlighten me then we'll both know.

"I may not have one blow out"

 

I've never torqued mine, just got them tightened to what I thaught was good. Also, I've used anti-seize after the first plug change, they were still in good and tight when I just removed them for a new set. No worries there.

 

You the Man BLUE

 

everything i have read you are not suppose to use antiseize..i didnt on mine.

lets see...worked at a mechanics shop through high school...so hell idk 100 maybe???

i didnt torque mine either but i check them every once and a while to make sure they arent coming loose.


but why did it take you 3 posts to ask all this? couldnt ask all in one?

 

A calibrated elbow is generally sufficient - it's just a fact that using the factory torque specs (15 ft/lb) can contribute to loosening and blowout, as can antiseize. The master Ford tech that runs blownoutsparkplug.com specifically recommends Motorcraft plugs with nickel plated threads torqued dry to 28-32 ft/lb in holes with clean threads and seats.

 

Man/Boy you are a real Wise A--, I am suprised the moderators didn't throw you off yet. you really know how to break them. When I was in the service I kicked a couple of guys A--es now that I think of they were from the Lonestar State. At least after all that you admitted you didn't torque your's either. You know what they say, just because your doing something for a long time don't mean your doing it right I'm referring to your post numbers.

 

Good morning Mr. Sultini!

Sir - that was uncalled for. He is a nice young man who answered yer questions and was just trying to help.

No need to throw insults, sir. and - There are some good folks in Texas. Last I checked it was still part of the US of A too.

By the way, yer posting history leads me to wonder if you would be better served by screen name like 'insultini'

Have a good day, sir.

Cheers


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