First off i am far from an experienced mechanic, however after reading up on the process of changing the EGR Valve i decided this was a job surely i could tackle. However, after removing all the nuts and bolts and making it to the very last bolt, i cannot get it to budge, it seems to be seized and cannot break it free. I will post pictures of what i am talking about. i am looking for suggestions on how to remove this bolt so i can replace the EGR Valve. This is the bolt that i cannot get unstuck, it is located mid pic and is sticking out directly from under the Valve Cap.

 

I used a 10mm deep socket and it snapped free... in two pieces. Ended up taking the elbow to a machine shop to get them to drill the bolt out. I hope you can get it free without breaking it. Have you tried spraying some penetrating lubricant?

 

Just as i feared, i have sprayed it with WD40 however didn't see any kind results. I hope i can get this off in one piece this evening, i have one of my buddy's coming over her take a look are it. Thanks

 

WD-40 is not a good penetrating oil - try PB Blaster or Seafoam Deep Creep.

 

I second the use of PB Blaster or Seafoam Deep Creep. Just spray them and wait awhile ( the hardest part...usually) sometimes it takes multiple spraying s but patience is key. Just spray once then go find something on tv come back in 30 mins if it still won't budge spray again and find something else to watch for a bit....rinse and repeat until it's out. Some times some things need to sit over night some times 2 mins but patience is key. No patience = broken bolt = bigger pain in the rear.

 

try penetrating oil, and its also sometimes worth a shot to tighten it slightly if possible to get the rust to break loose, then spray and soak it some more

 

Thanks fellas, my buddy came over to the house last night and brought his 10mm deep well socket and he applied a fair amount of pressure and it broke free..luckily in one piece. He ended up putting the new one in and everything back together in maybe 5 mins. I was relieved when he handed me the old one, and it was all gunked up!

 

If I could add an expansion to this post:

Service engine light pointed me to the EGR system so I also have recently changed out my EGR valve. However, that was maybe almost 2 weeks ago and the service engine light has not gone out. I even disconnected/reconnected the battery to try to reset it, but it just came back on.

Where do i go next? Pressure sensor? Vacuum? All the lines/hoses seem fine. Any help is appreciated!

 

You go to Autozone and get the codes pulled, and post the exact P-codes here. You also post your year and engine.

 

i got that bolt out no problem, it was the first one that you got out that snapped on me!

 

To Trucktruck.
There are many EGR codes.
Which one is set?
No code tells you what part to change.
Dong so spends extra money.
You could have done a test and found out the EGR was ok and moved on to other parts of the system looking for the fault..

 

After pulling the valve and resetting the check engine light, i drove the truck about 1 week and then the check engine light came back on. i haven't had a chance to have the codes pulled as i have to return to Auto Zone to get them to do it for me, I don't notice the smoke as i did before and its still to early to tell by the oil consumption, but i have started noticing that after i crank it after its been sitting about 4 days it starts but runs very bad for a min like it wants to go dead and a puff of smoke comes out. Any other time i crank it no smoke, however when driving it and coming to a stop it idles very low at around 400-500rpms and acts like it wants to go dead. In fact one evening i was returning home and i pulled up and before i could do anything, it just died! What could be causing this? The tech did talk me into adding a bottle of Lucus fuel treatment and I'm still on the same tank, therefore i didn't know if any of the issues I've mentioned may be associated with the cleaning of the treatment. Any help would be appreciated.

 

The low idle is the Idle Air Control stuck closed.
This will cause several issues such as stalling when coming to a stop because the computer closes it down to just enough air to keep the motor from stalling as well as shuts down the fuel injection, all normal actions by design.
Stuck cloed will have an effect on cold starts as well.
The smoke at cold start can be intake valve seals allowing oil past the valve stems into the intake that finds it's way in with the air.
If the cold idle is not allowed enough air, there may be some smoke because the cold start is normally rich (same as a choke function on a carbed motor) and needs extra air.
Clean the IAC first and clear the idle/stalling issue before addressing other items.

 

Thank for the responses, the engine is back to running normal, after i refueled and got the Lucas out of the tank things are much better as far as the problems, however it is using oil again, however now it is not smoking and does not have any indication that there is a problem by the way it drives. Before i replaced the EGR Valve it was smoking. I read somewhere about oil consumption and what to look at when diagnosing he problem, whether its using oil and smoking or using oil and not smoking. Can anyone advise me what i should do. I am about to go to Auto Zone and get them to pull the codes and add some more oil to it.

 

Make sure the EGR passageways to the throttle body are not clogged with carbon