E-85 and spark plug thoughts/questions
#1
E-85 and spark plug thoughts/questions
After reading about numerous 3v spark plug horror stories, I decided to change my plugs before too much longer, currently at 37k miles. It seems that the "cleaner" the combustion chamber area, especially where the plug protrudes into the chamber, the better chance you have for success. From my understanding, carbon build up on the plug is what causes the plug to break.
If there was a way to truly clean this area prior to plug removal, would this "somewhat" solve the issue. I understand it is a design flaw.
I'm wondering if running e-85 for a while, a few tank fulls at least, prior to changing would accomplish this?
I have seen the inside of a "race" engine that was ran on e-85 and it was spotless in the chamber area, along with the tops of the pistons...no build up whatsoever. I have also seen the inside of a gas tank that have nothing but e85 in it and it was also spotless.
Has anyone that has ran pretty much nothing but e85 completed a plug change?
Thoughts?
If there was a way to truly clean this area prior to plug removal, would this "somewhat" solve the issue. I understand it is a design flaw.
I'm wondering if running e-85 for a while, a few tank fulls at least, prior to changing would accomplish this?
I have seen the inside of a "race" engine that was ran on e-85 and it was spotless in the chamber area, along with the tops of the pistons...no build up whatsoever. I have also seen the inside of a gas tank that have nothing but e85 in it and it was also spotless.
Has anyone that has ran pretty much nothing but e85 completed a plug change?
Thoughts?
#2
After reading about numerous 3v spark plug horror stories, I decided to change my plugs before too much longer, currently at 37k miles. It seems that the "cleaner" the combustion chamber area, especially where the plug protrudes into the chamber, the better chance you have for success. From my understanding, carbon build up on the plug is what causes the plug to break.
If there was a way to truly clean this area prior to plug removal, would this "somewhat" solve the issue. I understand it is a design flaw.
I'm wondering if running e-85 for a while, a few tank fulls at least, prior to changing would accomplish this?
I have seen the inside of a "race" engine that was ran on e-85 and it was spotless in the chamber area, along with the tops of the pistons...no build up whatsoever. I have also seen the inside of a gas tank that have nothing but e85 in it and it was also spotless.
Has anyone that has ran pretty much nothing but e85 completed a plug change?
Thoughts?
If there was a way to truly clean this area prior to plug removal, would this "somewhat" solve the issue. I understand it is a design flaw.
I'm wondering if running e-85 for a while, a few tank fulls at least, prior to changing would accomplish this?
I have seen the inside of a "race" engine that was ran on e-85 and it was spotless in the chamber area, along with the tops of the pistons...no build up whatsoever. I have also seen the inside of a gas tank that have nothing but e85 in it and it was also spotless.
Has anyone that has ran pretty much nothing but e85 completed a plug change?
Thoughts?
#3
Okay, you've got me concerned here. I plan on changing my plugs to Brisk brand sometime next week. I have an 06 with the 3v 5.4l with 54k miles on it. So these OEM plugs that are in it are having a tentantcy to break when you try to get them out? Is there something I should be worried or be careful about when extraction time comes?
#4
If you are wanting a carbon deposit remover, try Techron, which is Ford recommended, BG-44, or the cheapest but still effective is Gumout WITH Regane. Regane is a Polyether Amine and is tops in cleaning carbon deposits. I'd suggest a double dose in 12 gallons of gas before changing the plugs. It would also be a good idea to change the oil soon afterwards. The carbon deposits will washed into the oil and become loaded with it. The filter will catch the larger particles but it won't capture all it. Seafoam is nothing more than a pale oil with some alcohol and kerosene. Oil burning is going to cause more deposits, not remove them.
#5
The other option is to run a Top Tier fuel, which is one with a higher and certified level of detergents to help reduce deposits. Check here
http://www.toptiergas.com
for brands that comply.
http://www.toptiergas.com
for brands that comply.
#6
Okay, you've got me concerned here. I plan on changing my plugs to Brisk brand sometime next week. I have an 06 with the 3v 5.4l with 54k miles on it. So these OEM plugs that are in it are having a tentantcy to break when you try to get them out? Is there something I should be worried or be careful about when extraction time comes?
#7
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#8
You can download the TSB, it's number 08-7-6. You will also want the Lisle extraction tool. Seems to be the best one that folks here recommend. Plus you'll need the socket for the plug. Spend some time reading thru the MANY 5.4 3V spark plug removal posts on this site and others. You'll gain some useful insight into this task. Be sure to have these tools in hand when you're ready to start this process. Plus give youself a weekend to do the job. Being patient is CRITICAL. And understand that even following the TBS you may still break a plug. I broke 3, but it all worked out just fine.
Hope this helps
Here's the TSB. http://www.revivalogistics.com/docum...28-59%20AM.pdf
Here's the extraction tool. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis65600.html and the socket. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc-6900.html There are tons of places to get these from, this is just one that offers both parts (pricing is better elsewhere)
Hope this helps
Here's the TSB. http://www.revivalogistics.com/docum...28-59%20AM.pdf
Here's the extraction tool. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis65600.html and the socket. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc-6900.html There are tons of places to get these from, this is just one that offers both parts (pricing is better elsewhere)