i bet a machine puts them on, EVERY oil filter on EVERY car is that way, and no they dont put oil on the gasket either

 

You can go SYNTHETIC if you want. For really in depth info, head to www.bobistheoilguy.com !!! More info than you probably want or need. If I were you, I'd have a little fun with the dumb a$$ service guy. Ask him, "Sir, you're the "expert" not me...but WHY does Chevrolet ship Corvettes from the factory with Mobil 1? Or better yet why do Porches come with Mobil 1. The Porsche cost 2-3 times what my F150 does??" Make sure you take a camera to take a picture of his clue-less-ness!!! You could sell it on ebay and pay for you truck!!!!! Moron!!!
My wife's 09 Toyota got changed at 2000 miles to Mobil 1 and again at 5000 miles. I do 5K oil changes. The 03 SCREW I just bought about 3 weeks ago has had Motorcraft 5w-20 ran in it. It a Syn-blend. I'm going to stay with it as its VERY good oil (again--learned from Bob is the Oil guy website) and its pretty cheap from what I've heard. I'd recommend Mobil 1 or Royal Purple, or if you want a VERY good synthetic oil thats a little cheaper I'd go with Pennzoil Platinum!! Probably the BEST "bang for your buck" oil. I don't know where you live but I really like 5K oil change intervals (OCIs). If it were MY truck I'd dump it at 1 or 2,000 miles to whatever synthetic you want. I'd dump again at 5k and stay in 5k changes from there on out. Its a lot easier to remember 5, 10, 15, 20, than odd mileage numbers or trying to remember to fill out the little sticker. Enjoy you truck---DirtySCREW

 

I used the long screwdriver jammed through the filter method to get the first filter off my 2005 5.4,lol. Anyone know why the factory filters look different from the MC FL820S? The factory filter does not have as many "flutes" on the end of it requiring a different wrench from the factory style?

 

different wrench???

and idk the "FORD" oil filters from the dealership are all black white with a X over a garbage can picture, and thats all

 

X100. Great oil for the price. As well as Motorcraft...

The only Mobil 1 I would touch is the EP. The "regular" stuff isn't worth the premium price.

 

When you guys say EP only.. whats wrong with the "regular" mobil 1? It's still supposed to be fully synthetic, just not as hyped up or flashy as some of the others.. I've never heard or seen anything documented bad about mobil 1 except what people say here..?

https://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English...s/Mobil_1.aspx

I do a lot of stop and go, low mileage, short trip city driving.. that's why I recently switched over to Mobil 1 in both my truck and my wife's civic.. both using 5w20. I change my oil every 6 months.. I barely make it to 3000-4000 miles in that time.

Sure your vehicle might run just fine on conventional or synthetic blend oils.. but I don't see the reason why not to fork over a little extra on a fully synthetic oil change that still costs less than it does to fill up the gas tank and have that extra peace of mind.

 

I changed all my fluids over to royal purple. Diff, tran, etc. Feels good to me. Even use RP motor oil.

 

For the record... I've used Mobil 1 for about 7 years in all 5 of my vehicles. One being a 00 SS Camaro which I also use as a Police vehicle (hard driving ). The vehicle has had 4 different race cams in it since it had 20k on it, heads, exhaust, intake the works. Cars been raced numerous times at the tracks pulling low 12's. It's a daily driver and has just passed the 100k mark with out a problem (except eating clutches like it was free). If that don't say enough about Mobil 1 dunno what else will. If you really wanna know about it, go check out LS1tech.com, there was this oil nut on there that has scientific testing done. NO KIDDING.

 

Do a search on here and you will see that the latest formulation of Mobil 1 has failed key testing and is a big risk for your vehicle. The EP blend is a better choice as it still passes those tests and is formulated for extended use with a better additive package. The Motorcraft Syn Blend 5w-20 is a better choice than standard Mobil 1 for both performance and cost.

 

Mobil 1 is not a true synthetic by definition - it uses GP 3 petroleum base stocks. The EP version has a LOT more synthetic additives. There are VERY FEW true synthetics left any more due to the skyrocketing cost of PAO base stocks.

 

I know this doesn't go far with this group and we are all gonna do what we believe in, but when you start making statements like "best bang for the buck" and "full synthetics are not worth the premium price", you guys are missing the boat. Any of the top PAO oils out there are not to be changed every 3,000 miles. They can take much much more. Amsoil is probably the best bang for the buck oil out there. Problem is, you guys only see the price tag and nothing else. You can't let go of your 3-5,000 mile oil change religions to see the true benefit of an oil such as this. Do the math yourself compared to any oil you want to compare it to, and bounce it up against Amsoil for 25,000 miles. When you do that, Amsoil is the cheapest way to go and you are still getting a superior product that will hold up! I'd have to do the math on this one, but I'd be willing to bet even if you followed Amsoils sever service recommendation of 15,000 miles you'd still come out ahead over your other favorite oil in terms of cost.

 

Group III oils are okay for medium drain intervals of say 5000-10000 miles. I you are not interested in extended drains the regular Mobil 1 is okay. Honestly, if it were mine I would be doing the Mobil EP and 10000 mile or longer drains. That's the best way to maximize performance and get highest cost efficiency.

Be sure to use a quality filter capable of extended drains as well.

The one thing I like about using AMSOIL is they specify the drain intervals as well as offer the highest quality filters to match those oil drains. The EA filter line uses fully synthetic media for an outstanding micron rating. 98.7% at 15 microns. I don't know of any other filter on the market that do this.

I use the AMSOIL SSO 0w30 and the EAO11 filter on my truck

 

The difference in price between the standard and EP Mobil 1 is only about 50 cents a quart. To me, that makes it a no-brainer to use the EP.

 

X100 on the Amsoil filters!! Yes, hands down the MC filter is a great bang for the buck filter, but I challenge you to buy an Amsoil oil filter (of the corresponding part number) and sit it beside your MC filter. The quality of construction and materials is immediately noticeable. It just looks and feels like a better made product. And we won't even talk about filtration quality. No way you'd run a MC filter past 5,000 miles or so. I don't even lose a wink of sleep running my EaO to 3X that distance.

Another thing about Amsoil that. Enjoy is it's totally one-stop-shopping. I literally get EVERYTHING for my vehicles from Amsoil...antifreeze, brake fluid, all the oils, you name it.

 

Testing shows in most any driving conditions the 820-S filter is still working as designed at 15000 miles and is not in a by-pass mode. The reason is not the filter but the engine design. The newer Tritons are a very clean engine inside and do not generate the particulate of engines of the 60's or even the 90's. You can easily go 7500 miles on any of the OTC oils that wear the Ford spec on the bottle. Folks are changing oil far, far too soon. Yeah, many years ago when we had leaded gasoline you had to change every 3000 miles to get rid of the extreme levels of lead that migrated to the oil. But we haven't had leaded gas for decades now and engine technologies have improved dramatically. There is no need for the oil to be changed so often. But old habits are hard to break.