drop fuel tank or remove bed?
#1
drop fuel tank or remove bed?
I have a 2001 F150 that I have to replace the fuel pump on. I was wondering if I could raise the bed vs. dropping the fuel tank to access the pump and if so, is it easier to raise the bed considering I will be doing the job in my driveway with no lift, floor jack, or ramps. I should mention that I do have a bedliner.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Thanks for your suggestions.
#2
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Central Coast, California
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I lifted the bed (by myself,using a come-a-long attached to my carport), as I didn't want to disconnect the fuel lines by feel, and my tank was 3/4 full. Because of the way the bed wraps around the cab, you can't just lift the bed straight up, but must slide it back and up (I didn't take off the bumper, so I had to lift the back of the bed high enough to clear it ... next time I'll remove the bumper). If you do remove the bed, pad the front of the bed, where it wraps around the cab to prevent scratching the cab. Good luck to you, which ever route you chose.
Bed lifted and slid back, sitting on wood blocks on the frame ...
Bed lifted and slid back, sitting on wood blocks on the frame ...
#3
#5
I was just under the truck trying to undo the fuel line at the filter so I can test to see if the pump is putting out fuel at that point since I forgot to do it when replacing the filter. Those "quick release" connectors on the fuel line are nothing of the sort. Thanks for the info. If it comes to replacing the pump I am definitely going in from the top thanks to the posts in this forum.
Anybody know the procedure for replacing the fuel pressure regulator? I cant find it in the engine compartment and I read somewhere that it is on the end of the fuel rail on the back of the engine. I can see the fuel rail go back and it would seem that you would have to remove the entire intake to access it. Is that right?
Anybody know the procedure for replacing the fuel pressure regulator? I cant find it in the engine compartment and I read somewhere that it is on the end of the fuel rail on the back of the engine. I can see the fuel rail go back and it would seem that you would have to remove the entire intake to access it. Is that right?
#6
I lifted the bed (by myself,using a come-a-long attached to my carport), as I didn't want to disconnect the fuel lines by feel, and my tank was 3/4 full. Because of the way the bed wraps around the cab, you can't just lift the bed straight up, but must slide it back and up (I didn't take off the bumper, so I had to lift the back of the bed high enough to clear it ... next time I'll remove the bumper). If you do remove the bed, pad the front of the bed, where it wraps around the cab to prevent scratching the cab. Good luck to you, which ever route you chose.
Bed lifted and slid back, sitting on wood blocks on the frame ...
Bed lifted and slid back, sitting on wood blocks on the frame ...
I am thinking I can remove the bumper, the bed bolts, and then just slide the bed back to access the pump. Will this not work? What did you need to lift for other than to clear the bumper? What did you do to get the bed back without damaging the fuel filler neck?
Thanks again.
#7
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Central Coast, California
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As I remember, the filler neck just unbolted at the bed and could be flexed out of the way.
Your question about lifting the bed made me get a flashlight and go take a look at my truck. I may have been suffering a bad case of tunnel vision when I lifted the bed (this often happens to me as I do all my repairs alone thus never getting a second opinion). At a glance, it sure looks likes, with the bumper gone, the bed could be slid back w/o lifting. I used a come-a-long to lift the bed to clear the bumper ... in hindsight, maybe not a very smart plan of attack.
Your question about lifting the bed made me get a flashlight and go take a look at my truck. I may have been suffering a bad case of tunnel vision when I lifted the bed (this often happens to me as I do all my repairs alone thus never getting a second opinion). At a glance, it sure looks likes, with the bumper gone, the bed could be slid back w/o lifting. I used a come-a-long to lift the bed to clear the bumper ... in hindsight, maybe not a very smart plan of attack.
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#8
#10
My questions to you would be:
First start or cold start? Is it only in colder temperatures?
Hard to start or hard to crank?
#11
#12
#13
Make sure you're running a Motorcraft oil filter if you are not already. I think I remember someone on here saying they have a special anti drainback valve that some other oil filters don't have for cold startups. I know after oil changes my truck starts a little rough because there's no oil in the filter the first couple seconds.
Last edited by aaron.b; 09-25-2009 at 11:29 AM.
#14
#15
Blue I also have a similiar problem. Sometimes (and it's not always just the first start) my truck won't start. After a couple of tries and sometimes even giving the truck gas it will start. I can also go days with it starting just fine and then all of the sudden it will happen again. I was thinking a bad fuel pump, but never would of thought of the oil filter. I use Wix filters, anyone know if that might be the problem? Thanks and didn't mean to hijack the thread!