My truck usually sets unless I need it for hauling, lately it has been setting a lot. I guess just setting out their in the cold never having been run, the battery went down. The first time this happened I put the battery tender on it for the night, the next day it did start, I ran it around that day with no problem.

Maybe two weeks later after it setting again, it would not start again. I put the battery charger on it all night again, next day it still would not start, but I did see and smell a little smoke coming from the battery area as I was exiting the truck.

Figuring the battery was dead, I attempted to jump the truck, to go to the store and have a new one put in. It would still not start. I went to the store and brought the battery home, put it in, and it still refuses to start.

I have left out of this story the fact that the truck never did attempt to turn over. It did not click, click, click as if it were even attempting to try to start either. It just clicked once as if power had been transferred to the area needed but thats all.

I then noticed the battery fuse cover and looked in there but what I saw looked like something you would see in a high voltage electrical box. I did not see anything in there that looked like if had burned, causing the smoke I saw earlier.

The rest of the electrical on the truck works normally with nothing to indicate the battery is low.

The truck is a 98 4.6 auto, 4x4 Please send help and a tow truck. Thank You

 

Are the terminals secure? If the connection is bad all you get is one big click, then nothing. No lights, or power.

 

Check the fusable link on the positive battery cable.

 

I checked the fuse. It was a 20 amp fuse with a little red blank fuse I guess above it, The fuse was not broken. The terminals are tight, and free of any green gunk, very clean, and I am getting power to the accessories; lights, radio, etc.

I took a look at the starter while at the truck. The unit that sets outside of and attached to the starter, with terminals, those terminal are caked with green, and the over all appearance of the thing looks rusted and very dismal. This I guess is the cellenoid.

I tried to jump the ignition and crossed the wire trerminals on the fire wall with a screwdriver but had no different effect.

 

The solenoid you are talking about probably looks worse on the inside. Change it and the cables, because the corrosion taht you see has probably grown through the wire strands inside the insulation... Hope this helps.

 

One my 97 the copper loop that went to solenoid broke on the big cable, fixed that and started right up.

 

Sounds like the MEGA fuse went. 98's have two 175 amp MEGA fuses on firewall -





Those usually don't go unless you connect the battery - negative first. Always connect positive first or you could screw the PCM or your face up.

Could be the little wire on the starter itself. That's common.

Does any accessories work ? Well, your "No Click" description tells me it's most likely the MEGA fuse.

Purchase a cheap digital multi meter (the best = Craftsman/Fluke one in the same). Set to DC 20 or 200 (that works too) , You should have 12.? at the terminals. Then set to Ohms and check continuities @ fuse/harness ends .

 

How can you tell if mega fuse is bad? Yes I have power everywhere, to radio lights etc.

No one is mentioning the little bit of smoke I saw, coming from the area of the battery, or maybe the mega fuse area.

This smoke would lead me to believe, that the problem is not down on the starter but somewhere near where I saw the smoke.

 

If all else fails, check your ignition relays.

 

MEGA fuses prevent your truck from going up in smoke. When they blow, the solder connect melts - in-turn , puff of smoke.

NOTE: My pic above is of a broken MEGA fuse caused from over flexing. That did not blow. The solder melts when they blow. The solder joint is in the middle of the fuse.

When you replace yours - DO NOT bend them, they bend easily and fracture/break.

 

I explained that earlier - A cheap multi-meter will tell you. Do you know what continuity means ? If not, just ask. A simple continuity check will give away a bad fuse.

You can bi-pass the MEGA temporarily to determine.

Don't run it bi-passed, just start it to determine, then replace the Fuse.

BTW - You can check your relays (like FX suggests) with a multi meter. I believe the starter uses the same relay as the horn (on the 98) I'm not positive on that. - Meaning you could swap them for an easy determination.

The little book in the glove box will tell you.

BOOK =



RELAYS -

 

Thanks so much for the info I will tomorrow check the big fuse you have a picture of, I do have a meter, but do not know where to check resistance from your explanation.

I guess from one side of fuse to the other past the bridge of solder, on the big fuse, like the one pictured above. I will let you know if the fuse is blown, but, judging by the smoke and your explanation of the smoke, I would think you have solved my case.

 

Yea, that's the only thing that will smoke over there if your set up is stock.

IF, that's not it - One of us here will help you figure it out

BTW - Continuity can be checked with a 1.5v battery/light/two wires.

A "Multi-meter" has to be set to read Ohms. When set to Ohms on the meter , you can touch both leads together for a reaction to confirm your tester is working. Then just touch each side of the fuse.

 

I do not have an owners manual, but I get what you are saying. again thnanks

 

Both fuses were in working order. Took a better look at the starter. Started to move wires around, and the main wire to the starter from battery fell away from the starter. I fixed that with new cable end cleaned everything off put everything back, and presto changeo, it did not work.

I guess it is the cellenoid, or the bendix. I do not know how hard it is to change that.

Guess it will go to the shop, just hate to have to,,, have it towed,

Thanks for your help