Any info on why this happens or suggestions on where to get new one that will last?How hard is it to change?

 

usually the manifold studs towards the back break from the engine rocking under load. its pretty common on the 97-03 trucks.

 

Stress on an old manifold could do this. The exhaust system being held under the cab, and putting stress on the manifold as the engine motions. Its common. Is the manifold cracked? Or is it a leaky gasket? If its cracked, or even if its a gasket, depending on the last time the manifold was taken off, it could be a Biznatch to deal with. Due to placement, and the corroded bolts that are holding it on (unless the fasteners are regularly cleaned). Be sure to go easy on them, so you wont break them. wd-40 works nice. But if it hasnt been long, its a breeze, wont be hard ( or at least for me it wasnt), as long as you can get your wrench to the bolts. I've noticed its a lot easier on the newer F1's 04-08. As for getting one that will last, I guess the only other thing to do is switch to aftermarket, such as gibson, or hooker, for example.

 

What year

Most likely the studs are going in the heads, depending on the year. Ford upgraded those to stainless. Also common is the exhaust flange studs going. Mine rusted down to a pencil lead thickness before snapping.

 

I've noticed a slight ticking from the passenger side as well. I've been avoiding the inevitable...I need to get under there and see how bad the leak really is. I'm hoping for an easy fix, but that RARELY happens. If the mani is cracked, isn't there a bolt in shorty header? I wonder if that is an improvement over stock and what the cost difference is. I guess I know what I'll be researching when I get a chance today...

 

Well, I got a chance to poke around on the net and there are quite a few options with bolt in shorty headers. If my mani is cracked and the cost of the aftermarket mani's are comparable, I'll go with the Edelbrock 65232:



I like to replace parts with something that is some sort of improvement over stock. Here in lies the problem, most people on this board say there is no gain what-so-ever with the aftermarket headers compared to the OEM mani's.


Anybody know what the price of the OEM manifold?

 

I paid $110 for my passenger side stock manifold. . . .

 

I thought my "sound" was coming from the heat shields around the converters. ( you pointed out and I thank you again ). But as luck would have it, the 2 back bolts on my exhaust manifold were broken. I have taken it to the Ford dealer AND my local mechanic ( who has done very well by me for years and has done LOTS of these broken bolt removals ) Neither could get one bolt out.

So my local mechanic rigged something up, some sort of "patch" or something and it has seemed to work. I'm NOT looking forward to having to take my F150 for the exact same thing.

 

couldnt get the bolt out? A mechanic and a Ford dealer??? wow, I got every one of mine out, even the ones that broke off deep inside the head in the way back of the motor. I had my drill bouncing off the firewall drilling it out. . .

 

Exhaust leaks are pretty easy to determine. You didn't say you had one. -He did. :o

 

Was that new? That may change things....

 

yes

 

The mechanic @ the Ford dealer thinks that it was way over tightened when it was built and the end of the bolt might have "mushroomed" out into the head. He said that the mass majority of bolts come out just by welding another head onto the bolt.

 

Don't get me wrong, I still appreicated your help. It sounded more like a rattle than a leak. If I didn't have to take my front tire off on the passenger side to get fixed and took a look while the wheel was off, I would have been banding the hell out of the converters.

 

hm. . . Guess the guy just didnt feel like booking alot of hours that week. . .


anyway, while yes, alot of the bolts will come out if you weld the nut to the end of them, other still need alot of heat to break the seal. I've threaded nuts on broken bolts 4-5 thread, welded, hit it with water, let it sit, and then have the nut twist right off. I had to heat the stud til red hot then torque it out sometimes