This is definitely a job you can do yourself. I have a '97 F-150. Place the key in the cylinder and turn it to the "run" position.(or what is normally your run position as it sounds like it no longer "remembers" its notch settings) Locate the small hole on the steering wheel (backside) and insert a thin needle-like object or punch into the hole and pull the cylinder straight out. Installation of the new one is the exact opposite.
The cylinder (w/key) is approximately $9.00.

 

My wife has an 1994 Ford F150 Anyways wondering if anybody knew how to change out the ignition cylinder. The thing spins 360 degrees now without the key in it. And when we try to start the truck the key is very hard to put in the hole - Is this job I can do myself??

Thanks in advance.

Jack

 

The locking system you have in your truck is known as the Ford 10 cut system. It sounds like your ignition cylender has a very common problem. I see this about once a week. The part of the cylender you insert your key through, the "ears", is actually a cap that is crimped on the lock core. The only thing keeping it from spinning independently of the core, other than the crimp, are three small **** about the diameter of a pencil lead. They protrude out of the core and into the cap. Those little guys get sheared off and the cap will now spin on the core. The ignition will actually still function normally if you line up the cap with the keyway. The most common cause of this type of failure is the steering wheel being locked and in a bind, as in pulling your self in and out of the vehicle by the steering wheel. The column lock is directly connected to the ignition lock. When the column lock is in a bind folks will invariably apply more torque to the ignition lock ears to get that "sticky" lock to turn. Guess what happens next. But, to make a long story longer, and back to the point. It's an easy fix. My advise to you is to go to your friendly neighborhood locksmith and purchase an "uncoded" lock cylender, hand them your key and code it to your key. Otherwise you'll have two keys to work your truck instead of one. Take an ice pick look on the bottom of the column directly under the ignition switch. You'll notice two holes, in one there's a screw that helps hold the column shroud on. Right next to it is a slightly smaller one, that's the access hole for the retainer. Put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "on" position. Put the ice pick into the hole in the shroud, you'll have to insert it about an inch or two. Your target is a small hole in the lock housing only about 5/32" in diameter. Your best bet is to carefully probe the lock housing while watching the ears on the lock. When you hit the retainer, you'll see the ears move slightly. Give it a firm push and remove the ice pick. Now, you should be able to remove the lock. To install the new one, put your key in and turn clockwise (if your looking at the ear end) while pushing in on the small retainer pin at the opposite end of the lock. It's about an 1/8" in diameter. When it's turned to the "on" position the pin will go in. Insert the new lock, turn it to the "off" position once you have it all of the way in. The retainer pin will move back out into it's hole in the housing, and your done! In the future, before you turn the ignition switch, turn the steering wheel to make sure there's no pressure on it. It may happen again even if your very carefull. They just aren't designed very well in that area. But maybe it will last a little longer. Just as a guage, I charge $30 for a 10 cut ignition, coded to your key. Some will be more, some will be less. Sorry about the long winded post, but I just love talking shop!


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98 F-150 XLT 4X4 ORP Super Cab Short Bed, 4.6, Auto. Superchip, Gibson sing. cat-back, Airaid, 80/100w German head lamps. Needs one more door and a lot more power. I think I need to talk to Mr. Whipple.

 

Hey 98fword, I haven't run into that problem yet in my truck, or any of my customers trucks. Thanks to you and your "long winded post", I now have a very detailed set of instructions on exactly what to do. Thanks for taking the time to share some of your knowledge, and don't apologize for doing what most people should. Thanks again.
Take care,
-Chris

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'95 Eddie Bauer F-150 SC & '64 Falcon/Ranchero
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I have recently 'acquired' a 1995 Ford F-150 but I don't have the keys. The truck was abandoned on the property I purchased so I did a lien sale on it to have it put in my name. With that out of the way, I would like to try and get the truck running. It looks like someone already tried to remove the ignition switch with a screwdriver without any luck. As I already stated, I don't have the key to the truck so I need to install a new ignition switch, which I already purchased. Is their a trick to getting the old cylinder out in the event you don't have the key? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Keyless and clueless...

 

Wow! I just bought a 2001 today. No problems starting it during the test drive or starting it to drive away from the sellers house. Once I get home, I have to giggle the steering wheel to be able to turn the key. Like its locked until I hit just the right point and turn the key at the same time. Then it turns freely. Does this sould like a replacement problem or can something be lubricated in the ignition or stearing column to fix?

Other than that I got quite a deal! This is probably the best time to buy an F-150 and it fits my needs perfectly.

 

Turns out one key works good and the other sticks.

 

My ignition has been sticky for some time now and recently I was not able to turn the engine off. the key and cylinder seem for go to the stop positon with no risistance and back as if it is free spinning. Removed the cylinder and it seems to work fine. The key will go to the start position and start but back to the free spinning. It seems to be beyound the ignition cylinder itself. Any suggestions. Currently killing engine and removing battery cable.

 

I just pulled my ignition key switch out of my 1997 f-150 and the end that sticks out the back that looks like it engages the gear in the column is sheared off and stuck in there. Any ideas on how to get the sheared end out? I am thinking about hooking on with my tractor and rolling it on its side to shake it around a little bit I took a pic of my old switch assembly with the sheared end if anyone wants an email - can't post pics on here.

 

I just got done completing this job successfully, when I had the same problem to start with. First, I removed the bottom half of the steering column cover. With a 1/8 carbide endmill on a Dremel, I ground down the locking pin. Then I used a scratch awl inserted in the hole and out it came.
You can buy at an auto parts place for about $12, the cylinder with 2 keys.
Key in new cylinder must clockwise till locking pin goes in. Next insert into
steering column, push down, then turn key to off position, counterclockwise.
You can see the new locking pin to where the old one was. Replace 4 screws back on lower column cover and done.