04 Supercrew Shift Knob Removal
#1
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#7
2004 f150 shift ****
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ithscrewdr.jpg
1st pry down on the chrome piece, be careful not to damage it.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...xposethisb.jpg
2nd prying down chrome will expose this blk plastic piece, you must also pry this down I would use two large screwdrivers one on each side
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Ihadtoslig.jpg
3rd it should pull up and off I had to slightly mangle it...hey I a guy this how we fix stuff
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...nthespring.jpg
4th ensure that you maintain the spring
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1st pry down on the chrome piece, be careful not to damage it.
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...xposethisb.jpg
2nd prying down chrome will expose this blk plastic piece, you must also pry this down I would use two large screwdrivers one on each side
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Ihadtoslig.jpg
3rd it should pull up and off I had to slightly mangle it...hey I a guy this how we fix stuff
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...nthespring.jpg
4th ensure that you maintain the spring
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#8
2005 f150 shift **** part II
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...tothecrome.jpg
5th slide this piece down into the chrome piece below it
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...inlikethis.jpg
6th it should sit in like this
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...enewshiftk.jpg
7th line up and slide down the new shift ****, be careful of the spring it can caught up inside, so go straight down & it should slide down snuggly
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5th slide this piece down into the chrome piece below it
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...inlikethis.jpg
6th it should sit in like this
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...enewshiftk.jpg
7th line up and slide down the new shift ****, be careful of the spring it can caught up inside, so go straight down & it should slide down snuggly
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#9
2004 f150 shift **** Part III
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...ethattheta.jpg
8th once you have on make sure that the tabs line up with the lower black pieces open parts
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...slidethebo.jpg
9th then all you have to do is slide the bottom up to meet the top and you’re good to go.
Hope this helps everyone!!
8th once you have on make sure that the tabs line up with the lower black pieces open parts
http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e1...slidethebo.jpg
9th then all you have to do is slide the bottom up to meet the top and you’re good to go.
Hope this helps everyone!!
#10
Now you can also just suck it up and buy the $60-$70 dollar handle and carefully pry off the top chrome piece and stick it on your exsisting ****. I also tried this just to see if worked and it did. I used the sharp edge of a Knife to pry it.
Last edited by justinbustin; 09-01-2008 at 09:32 PM.
#12
anybody know any aftermarket shift ***** that fit. i got my stock one off and it broke coming off and the one i bought ,..... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HTS5JC/...SIN=B000HTS5JC .... doesnt seem to fit right.
#13
Very useful thread and how-to! Thanks!
I had to change my handle because the mechanism in the button broke (wore out and one of the pins fell out).....I had to purchase the whole handle together to replace just the button. This how-to was perfect.
Also, my shift interlock switch is acting up/not working at all at times so while working on the handle I took the liberty of effectively bypassing the switch using the white button on it's side. I pushed it down, placed a screw in the open void (to not allow for the button to come back up) and taped it to ensure the screw doesn't fall out. Works like a charm now and I don't have to spend 75$ on a switch
Thanks again!
I had to change my handle because the mechanism in the button broke (wore out and one of the pins fell out).....I had to purchase the whole handle together to replace just the button. This how-to was perfect.
Also, my shift interlock switch is acting up/not working at all at times so while working on the handle I took the liberty of effectively bypassing the switch using the white button on it's side. I pushed it down, placed a screw in the open void (to not allow for the button to come back up) and taped it to ensure the screw doesn't fall out. Works like a charm now and I don't have to spend 75$ on a switch
Thanks again!
#14
Thanks for the instructions and pics
I broke the cap off my shifter a few days ago. I purchased a new shift handle on Ebay. The note about the spring made all the difference for me. In the process of removing the old handle the spring was stuck up inside it. I was able to tap it out and install the new handle with no problem following your set of instructions. Thanks, again.
#15
I just finished replacing my shifter **** assy...basically, pulling out the button disengages the shifter **** assy from the shifter and once this is accomplished, the only thing holding the shifter **** assy on is the plastic 4-tab compression connection (shown in 7th "step" above)...this is what worked for me:
Leaving the shifter in "Park" position, I was able to get more space between button and shifter when pulling button out. Just enough space that I slid the Red "tool" (that came with the new one), into the created space and with a little pulling out of button, was able to get the button to "travel" freely like the NEW shifter assy. If you look down into the NEW shifter assy, you will see a rod/pin that pulls up(actually down when in operational position) and out of view when pulling button out from assy, essentially disengaging shifter **** from shifter. With some extra "up" pressure on shifter **** assy, the assy came off intact. I installed the NEW one in reverse order and had a little rougher time than expected reengaging the button to operate correctly, but it eventually pressed into place. My educated guess is that you need to (while pressing in on button) carefully/slightly pull up on shifter **** assy to help maybe increase some space for the rod/pin to get pushed back down into proper position in shifter.
Leaving the shifter in "Park" position, I was able to get more space between button and shifter when pulling button out. Just enough space that I slid the Red "tool" (that came with the new one), into the created space and with a little pulling out of button, was able to get the button to "travel" freely like the NEW shifter assy. If you look down into the NEW shifter assy, you will see a rod/pin that pulls up(actually down when in operational position) and out of view when pulling button out from assy, essentially disengaging shifter **** from shifter. With some extra "up" pressure on shifter **** assy, the assy came off intact. I installed the NEW one in reverse order and had a little rougher time than expected reengaging the button to operate correctly, but it eventually pressed into place. My educated guess is that you need to (while pressing in on button) carefully/slightly pull up on shifter **** assy to help maybe increase some space for the rod/pin to get pushed back down into proper position in shifter.