Just because your 'tow rating' is #8300, does not mean that's what you are going to be able to load up to and just roll along fine...
By that I mean, the 'tow ratings' from any manufacture is based off a totally BASE vehicle... So, think of the 'work truck' version of your model and that's what could possibly get away with towing at it's rated "tow rating". Also, it's only figured for the driver and a full tank of gas.. Add in the spouse, kids, dog, stuff in the bed.. That's all additional payload, and reduces your 'tow rating' almost pound for pound.
Oh, if you have additional options on the truck, that adds additional 'payload' as well..
All that being said, even if you could stay within your trucks other weight limits (GVWR, GAWR and GCWR) with a #8300 trailer, it's still going to be a slug towing.... Yeah, it's 'rated' to tow it, but it'll still take it's toll on your truck and not perform well at all.
Just to give you an idea of how all these weights relate in the real world, take my truck for example.. It's got less weight ratings then your truck, but the same principle applies..
I tow a #5000, fully loaded, 22' travel trailer. My truck has a 'tow rating' of #7700.. Yet, that #5000 TT puts my truck over it's GVWR by several hundred pounds. And it's only my wife and I on board!
It does tow pretty good and the performance is fine, but I don't think I'd feel the same way if I were to tow a #7700 TT....
If you can find a TT that it's GVWR is between #6500 and #7000, then you should be okay with your truck.. This will put that rig somewhere in the #5000 'dry' weight range.
Towing anything at it's 'max' will make any vehicle work harder.. Sure, it can be done, but you also have to consider everything else too..
Mitch