lower pulley install qestion.

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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 08:53 PM
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From: townsend De
Exclamation lower pulley install qestion.

so i got the tuner and the lower pulley from troyer, sent the tuner back for the custom tunes, mean while i stare at this pulley, i read instructions and it says something about locking the torque converter with a special tool cant i just put the truck in park? and i dont see this wire cage that is being said to remove! any help would be great thanks fellas
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bluebeast06
so i got the tuner and the lower pulley from troyer, sent the tuner back for the custom tunes, mean while i stare at this pulley, i read instructions and it says something about locking the torque converter with a special tool cant i just put the truck in park? and i dont see this wire cage that is being said to remove! any help would be great thanks fellas
Its simple, look on the drivers side on the back of the transmission, you'll see a rubber cap/plug that fills a hole. Pop it out and I think it's a 10mm bolt on the torque converter. Get someone to spin the motor over until you see the bolt visible through the plug hole. Put an socket and a short exten. on the socket, put it on the bolt and hold it while you turn the crank bolt to hold the extension up against the bell housing. You'll see it. Just take off the plug and spin the crank bolt with a wrench until you see the bolt, put the socket over it and it will lock it against the transmission bellhousing. Then you can back off the crank bolt.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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From: townsend De
o ok the black cap ok so i can stop it from spining with a socket> they gave me like this peice of metal flat bar like with two holes
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by bluebeast06
o ok the black cap ok so i can stop it from spining with a socket> they gave me like this peice of metal flat bar like with two holes
A socket and ext. will stop it. Just make sure it stays on the bolt tight while you turn the crank bolt enough to butt the socket up against the tranny housing. Or else it could slip off the bolt. Would be best to get someone to hold it while you turn the crank. I can attest to it being difficult if you have to do it yourself.....but it can be done.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2008 | 07:42 PM
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Crank pulleys are often very tight and hard to take off by hand. I always use a 3/8 air impact to do the job. Otherwise good luck. I dont really recommend putting a socket on that bolt on the torque converter (which I highly doubt he even has a drain plug for the converter let alone a port in the trans for it). Anyway, I dont recommend it because if you break that bolt, it will be a PITA to replace or remove. Or you could even damage the torque converter. Given I think its unlikely I still wouldnt do it.

I dont believe on the New body style that you can drain the converters. So that means he wont even have the option to do the socket 'trick'

Oh also, sometimes you have to use a pulley puller in order to remove a crank pulley. I dont have experience removing a crank on a F150, but it will be a real PITA to get off without a puller if it doesnt slide off with the main bolt out of it.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 12:22 AM
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Originally Posted by IR0NS1N
Crank pulleys are often very tight and hard to take off by hand. I always use a 3/8 air impact to do the job. Otherwise good luck. I dont really recommend putting a socket on that bolt on the torque converter (which I highly doubt he even has a drain plug for the converter let alone a port in the trans for it). Anyway, I dont recommend it because if you break that bolt, it will be a PITA to replace or remove. Or you could even damage the torque converter. Given I think its unlikely I still wouldnt do it.

I dont believe on the New body style that you can drain the converters. So that means he wont even have the option to do the socket 'trick'

It's not the drain bolt....there is an access hole on the back drivers side, not the drain access on the bottom. There is another one, thats the one where you get to the bolts holding the converter on. You won't break it off.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 01:25 AM
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From: townsend De
ok thanks im trying to get an idea how to do this cause im waiting for my custom tunes to arrive before i do this, if i known it took 8 weeks to get my tunes i think i would have gone somewhere else!
 
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:18 PM
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Blue,
Personally if I could get my money back for the email tunes I would! It's much easier and faster just to take it to a local person and let them do a dyno tune. I've done the email tunes and your still not even close to getting it nailed down on the first one. To get it right, you have to do quite a few datalogging sessions and emailing data and tunes back and forth. I've got to redo mine because I'm making changes, I can say I definitely won't be doing the email tune again.
Trust me, you'll like an in person dyno tuner much better. It takes way too long and too much communication for something that could be done in a few hours on a dyno.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2008 | 10:39 PM
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From: townsend De
yea im kinda f*cked cause my local guy doesnt have any experice with the newer f 150 he pretty much told me there a chance he could blow it up. jdm is abouta hour and a half away i read some good stuff about that saleen truck they built.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Originally Posted by bluebeast06
yea im kinda f*cked cause my local guy doesnt have any experice with the newer f 150 he pretty much told me there a chance he could blow it up. jdm is abouta hour and a half away i read some good stuff about that saleen truck they built.
An hour and a half is not bad! I'd take the drive and tell Troyer to refund my money. You'd be much happier getting it done on the dyno and being done with it. I'm a much bigger fan of the tuner actually having it right in front of the to see what the trucks doing....there are just some things you can't pick up on with datalogging. In person works much better.

JDM is really well known with the lightning guys, I don't think you could go wrong with them.
 
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Old Aug 10, 2008 | 08:29 PM
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Blue:
Troyer told me 8 weeks also...turned out to be 13.
Be prepared for a 3-month wait.

Here's hoping your turnaround is faster.

CW
 
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Old Aug 12, 2008 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bluebeast06
o ok the black cap ok so i can stop it from spining with a socket> they gave me like this peice of metal flat bar like with two holes

Flat bar is easy to use. Remove cover on front of bell housing. Bar lines up with one of the cover bolt holes and one of the converter bolts. Very secure! Everything is easier with the right tools.

OBTW I for looking for a 7.5inch lower outerring, let me know. Will fit anyones inner ring.
 
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