Ford F150 94 automatic the gears wont shift back into park
#1
01-25-2008, 02:47 PM
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Ford F150 94 automatic the gears wont shift back into park
or any other gear without a hassle but i cant put it back in park
1st off im not into vehicles so i dont know anything and please forgive me if thsi is in the wrong section welli ahve a Ford F150 automatic the shifter is very loose but it can still drive but its ahrd to put it in gear and it wont let me put it back into park also sometimes it feels like its out of gas and running on fumes kinda of like sputtering feeling but theres still gas also the lettering on the gears meaning PRND12 all that is out of wack when i move the gears you cant tell what it is and it is very loose almost circular motion loose not just up and down motion what can this be and is it really bad and is it going to cost me alot to fix maybe i can makea video of what im trying to say and yall can tell me more of what yall think it is and i hope its not that expensive well any help i get is appreciated thanks alot in advance
1st off im not into vehicles so i dont know anything and please forgive me if thsi is in the wrong section welli ahve a Ford F150 automatic the shifter is very loose but it can still drive but its ahrd to put it in gear and it wont let me put it back into park also sometimes it feels like its out of gas and running on fumes kinda of like sputtering feeling but theres still gas also the lettering on the gears meaning PRND12 all that is out of wack when i move the gears you cant tell what it is and it is very loose almost circular motion loose not just up and down motion what can this be and is it really bad and is it going to cost me alot to fix maybe i can makea video of what im trying to say and yall can tell me more of what yall think it is and i hope its not that expensive well any help i get is appreciated thanks alot in advance
#3
01-27-2008, 05:34 PM
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pics of problem posted
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=4uwirs&s=3
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=10oobh0&s=3
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=25a6lfn&s=3
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=1z4zgva&s=3
i took these pics to autozone and napa autozone guy said its called a acular selector napa guy said its a ignition selector so i did a seacrh for ignition acular selector nothing comes up good i hope these pics help yall help me
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=10oobh0&s=3
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=25a6lfn&s=3
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=1z4zgva&s=3
i took these pics to autozone and napa autozone guy said its called a acular selector napa guy said its a ignition selector so i did a seacrh for ignition acular selector nothing comes up good i hope these pics help yall help me
#5
01-28-2008, 11:42 AM
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#6
01-28-2008, 09:23 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyd0g
That is just for the needle on the dash, it won't prevent the trans from actually going into any gear.
Alan
Alan
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=11invdj&s=3
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=205fad2&s=3
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=15g9lis&s=3
this is what broke what is it called thanks for your help
#7
08-26-2008, 03:07 PM
Shifter Tube
My problem was not being able to shift out of park. My automatic shift lever on my 94 Ford F150 just went loose all of a sudden when I tried to shift into gear. Thanks to this thread I was able to take on this relatively easy repair.
Fortunately, my local Ford guy not only suggested replacing the tube but also the metal rod that goes in the tube. When I took mine apart not only was the tube cracked but the rod was bent. I would not have been able to use the rod in a new tube or worse would have shortened the life. The total cost from the dealer of these two parts was $46 including tax. The job involves disconnecting your battery so you don't accidently trigger your air bag, removing the trim around the steering wheel, disconnect the electrical overdrive connection, remove the pin holding the shift lever in place, there is another pin at the back of the tube that also needs to be removed (pay attention to how the metal lever is positioned) remove the four nuts holding up the steering column and let the column lower and rest on your front seat,
remove the eight #30 torx bolts and lift out the shift tube, reassemble new parts and be sure to lubricate the inside with grease so it doesn't rattle. This took me about 45 minutes to complete. Good luck and thanks to Alan.
Fortunately, my local Ford guy not only suggested replacing the tube but also the metal rod that goes in the tube. When I took mine apart not only was the tube cracked but the rod was bent. I would not have been able to use the rod in a new tube or worse would have shortened the life. The total cost from the dealer of these two parts was $46 including tax. The job involves disconnecting your battery so you don't accidently trigger your air bag, removing the trim around the steering wheel, disconnect the electrical overdrive connection, remove the pin holding the shift lever in place, there is another pin at the back of the tube that also needs to be removed (pay attention to how the metal lever is positioned) remove the four nuts holding up the steering column and let the column lower and rest on your front seat,
remove the eight #30 torx bolts and lift out the shift tube, reassemble new parts and be sure to lubricate the inside with grease so it doesn't rattle. This took me about 45 minutes to complete. Good luck and thanks to Alan.
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#8
08-26-2008, 03:11 PM
****er Tube
One other thing, there is a thin wire connected to the tube with a loop in it. Carefully slip this off of the tube. This wire is connected to the shift indicator so that as you shift the red needle travels from park to drive etc. If your needle is not pointing properly, you can adjust this by turning the wheel.
#9
01-10-2009, 05:11 PM
My problem was not being able to shift out of park. My automatic shift lever on my 94 Ford F150 just went loose all of a sudden when I tried to shift into gear. Thanks to this thread I was able to take on this relatively easy repair.
Fortunately, my local Ford guy not only suggested replacing the tube but also the metal rod that goes in the tube. When I took mine apart not only was the tube cracked but the rod was bent. I would not have been able to use the rod in a new tube or worse would have shortened the life. The total cost from the dealer of these two parts was $46 including tax. The job involves disconnecting your battery so you don't accidently trigger your air bag, removing the trim around the steering wheel, disconnect the electrical overdrive connection, remove the pin holding the shift lever in place, there is another pin at the back of the tube that also needs to be removed (pay attention to how the metal lever is positioned) remove the four nuts holding up the steering column and let the column lower and rest on your front seat,
remove the eight #30 torx bolts and lift out the shift tube, reassemble new parts and be sure to lubricate the inside with grease so it doesn't rattle. This took me about 45 minutes to complete. Good luck and thanks to Alan.
Fortunately, my local Ford guy not only suggested replacing the tube but also the metal rod that goes in the tube. When I took mine apart not only was the tube cracked but the rod was bent. I would not have been able to use the rod in a new tube or worse would have shortened the life. The total cost from the dealer of these two parts was $46 including tax. The job involves disconnecting your battery so you don't accidently trigger your air bag, removing the trim around the steering wheel, disconnect the electrical overdrive connection, remove the pin holding the shift lever in place, there is another pin at the back of the tube that also needs to be removed (pay attention to how the metal lever is positioned) remove the four nuts holding up the steering column and let the column lower and rest on your front seat,
remove the eight #30 torx bolts and lift out the shift tube, reassemble new parts and be sure to lubricate the inside with grease so it doesn't rattle. This took me about 45 minutes to complete. Good luck and thanks to Alan.