[Rockpick]

Originally Posted by 03gtmustang

I think you should mention that you use mainly Megs products. The terminology used will vary between companies, this gets really confusing sometimes.

Concured. The sticky does, primarily, talk about Meguiar's products. My edit has a few tweaks and mentions several other brands -- I'm just having trouble getting it out.

Also, paint doesnt have any "oils" that need to be replenished.

Actually - according to the 'major paint company' representative that sat with us in the Meguiar's 3-day advanced class; it does. Also, remember that acetone, MEK, and oodles of other paint components are petrochemicals. Something has to keep the clear pliable and non-brittle.

You mentioned synthetic waxes and Carnauba, but you didnt mention anything about pure sealants. Synthetic waxes are a mix between Carnaubas and pure sealants.

Interpretation and terminology. Sealant and Synthetic often go hand in hand with exactly the same meaning within the detailing realm.

Dressings- I dont see any mention of silicons

Great point.

Glass cleaners- might want to talk about ones with ammonia in it.

...another great point.

Be extremely careful with APC's. Some can have certain acids in it which can be bad for chrome, aluminum, etc.

Is in my edit. I thought of that too.

Leather Cleaners- might want to talk about what pH is safe for leather, stuff should be water based, solvent free, and not alkaline.

Again, in my edits.

Metal polish- might want to discuss how to tell if your metal is clear coated or not. And what to do in either situation.

See leather cleaners comment.

Wet sanding- I probably wouldnt even cover this at all, nor attempt doing it without a paint gauge. If you havent developed an eye for paint, then you might not know if it has been wet sanded, heavily compounded, or repainted before. All of these factors come into play when wet sanding. Not to even mention proper technique, grits, etc., etc.

Concured. For a 'basic' 'how-to' document, wet sanding should be snubbed and is in my edit.

Washing- You should start with the wheel wells, tires, rims first. Dont even wet the paint at this time. Once you finish the wheels, etc., then move onto the paint.

Disagreed. Top to bottom, IMO, is the best route. I will clean a tire to start (because of chemical nature) and *will* wet the entire vehicle before spraying a tire cleaner (simple g).

Wheels- using acid on rims isnt very smart. It should be the absolute last method used to clean a rim, if even used at all. Imagine replacing a customers benz, porsche, BMW, wheels because you used acid on them. Not ever smart. Start with least aggressive method possible and know your chemicals.

Yep. Basic How-To... this one was edited out of my version as well.

Claying- might want to discuss the different grades of clay and when to use them.

Again, going for 'basic', I don't think I want to discuss aggressive. As we know, it can cause some damage that one may have to go back and work on at the end. I think we should stick with mild as the option.

Im not going to even begin to talk about compounding and polishing. But I will say that polishing by hand is pointless. The amount of correction you can do by hand is so minimal, its not worth the work.

Disagreed. I've seen some pretty impressive work by hand. Mind you, the guy(s) had arms the size of cannons afterwards.

Not all LSP's can by layed. Some have cleaners in them and will remove the previous layer. Again, this comes down to knowing your chemicals and how to properly use them.

Agreed. Discussed in my edit.

Not all tire dressings sling.

Should caveot this with "If over applied..."

Too much moisture can ruin leather.

True but, to be realistic, I don't think anyone is going to submerge ones' seats.

I promise to try to get off of my but and tweak my copy soon. Work is simply kicking my butt -- hence the reason I'm up at 130 am -- yes, I'm working.