I have a 92 F 150 supercab, it has started flooding lately, not constantly, but off and on when you first crank it then when you are driving it, any ideas on a direction to head into.

 

EFIs don't flood. What are the exact symptoms you're seeing? What engine? How many miles? When was the last service, and what was done? How many miles on the fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, & coil? Are the plugs gapped to the spec. on the emissions sticker under the hood? Do you ever press the gas pedal during cranking?

 

Steve83, what does pressing the gas pedal during start cause.

I am still having flooding type problems with my 95 SWB 5.0

Sorry,Don't mean to hijack your thread,

but if we can sort this out I might be able to save you some $ I have been replacing parts and have not fixed the problem yet.

I have replaced the air filter, spark plugs, 02 sensor, MAP, IAT, FPR, removed the cat and fixed a couple of vaccum leaks, set timing.

rdaniel911 describe the symptoms in more detail.

my truck runs fine but the exhaust smells rich and it will sometimes miss and cough out lots of black smoke, I can stop and pat the gas until it clears out. but it gets crappy MPG. and sometimes it will die and to start it back I have to hold the pedal down (just like in a truck with a carb)

any of this sound familiar?

 

There are only 2 ways gas can get from the fuel lines into the engine on an EFI: thru the injectors, & thru a rupture in the FPR. If the FPR is OK, then something is either forcing the injectors open (a short to ground on one of the banks) or something is telling the EEC to hold them open too long (a bad ECT, IAT, TPS...).

Stop swapping parts & start testing things. A Haynes manual is under $15, & a decent multimeter can be had for even less.

Holding WOT during cranking tells the EEC not to open the injectors at all, to clear a flood (just like you'd do with a carb). Holding it anywhere in between WOT & idle during cranking confuses the EEC as to where the throttle stop is & how to manage the IAC.

 

the truck acts like is is flooding, some times when cranking, if it fails to start, you have to hold it wide open and crank it, then it will start, blowing black smoke, it will straighten out after a few minutes. the check engine light will come on intermittenly, then go out. it also will run rich when going up a hill and then when you get into it and it kicks down and the rpm goes up then it will straighten out. the only thing that makes it run better is the fuel additive that you get in your gas at murphy oil. (walmarts gas pumps). when you put it on the computer it shows no codes, took it to ford and they wouldn't even work on it or check it. the reason I said flooding is that is the best description I can come up with for it as that is exactly what it acts like.

 

rdaniel
If you're not going to answer my questions, I can't help you. You only answered the first one. How about all the others? Next time the CEL comes on, break out a paperclip & pull the codes yourself.

 

All right here are your answers, since I got the first one I won't answer it again, 5.0 engine, 301,000 miles, I have in the last three months changed the O2 sensor, tps sensor, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, engine temp sensor, oil, filter, fuel filter, replaced fuel pump in front tank and sock, with less than 3000 miles on all now. plugs are gapped to spec, no I don't press it unless if fails to start then I take it to the floor to clear the engine. I have had three mechs pull the codes and they have kept it for a few days, to no avail, the check engine light only comes on because the O2 sensor is reading rich, that is all they can get it to tell them.

EFIs don't flood. What are the exact symptoms you're seeing? What engine? How many miles? When was the last service, and what was done? How many miles on the fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, & coil? Are the plugs gapped to the spec. on the emissions sticker under the hood? Do you ever press the gas pedal during cranking?

 

I also from time to time note a ping in the engine which clears up when the truck downshifts, it also acts as though it's running too rich when climbing a hill until you get the truck to downshift and kick the rpms up. all the mechs here are stumped, they've never had one do this, and local ford dealer has been no help, they won't even touch the truck.

 

That's pretty high for a 5.0L. I'd do a compression test.

Why? Did it fail when you tested it with a meter? Aftermarket oxygen sensors aren't that great - what brand did you get, and from where?Did you adjust or test the new one after it was installed?Which one? There are 2. #36 below is the one used by the EEC. The other is strictly for the gauge.

And they haven't done any diagnosis from there? Did they even check the sensor to see if it's reading properly? Did they use an exhaust sniffer to find out if the exhaust is actually rich? Did they test or even inspect the cat(s)? It sounds like you need to find a shop that knows how to diagnose problems, or learn yourself. Pulling codes is easy, if you read that thread I linked above a few times. There are other articles describing the process more succinctly, if that one is too long or boring. The one on http://rjminjectiontech.com/ (or http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/) is popular. Then spend some quality time with a Haynes manual or a Ford service disk.

 

Found the problem, #6 and #8 injectors were bad, same thing I told them I thought it was when the started and they all said no can't be. Now runs like a champ. Like I have said many times, with a ford it's usually simple, you just have to find the problem

 

IM having a similar problem wher ei can smell fuel after i shut the truck off and bad fuel mileage. the truck has 480,000 KM on it im wondering if it has a leaking injector, my dad owned it for 12 years and never replaced them and the motor and trans are all original. Ive got a check engine light that comes on after abvout 10 mins of driving which i think is the o2 sensor but refuse to pay 80 dollars to have it scanned just yet. How did you determine the bad injectors and whcih ones?

 

You don't need to pay anything to get your codes - you only need a paperclip & these instructions. Before jumping into a lot of work, pull the red vacuum line off the FPR & check for the presence or even ODOR of gas.