ok, so we know that 3v is ok, and until very recently the state of the art was just ok on head flow. the fact is the limiting factor for power in forst the intake, but secondly the head flow. 3v stock flow was reportedly 230. that puts stock AsGoodAs windsor JR and such.


the state of the art in porting only was 269 @ .600 lift. well there are no cams to utilize .600 intake lift, so what good was it? also the SOA for aftermarket valves was 282 cfm @ .600" lift.




not any more.


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this is from C&L.


http://www.cnlperformance.com/05_3v.html


Testing of the factory intake port on the stock 3 valve cylinder head indicates a MAXIMUM flow capacity of 236 CFM. To put this in perspective, the "original" Edelbrock Performer 5.0 cylinder head designed for the 1986-1995 Mustang applications flowed a maximum of 212 CFM with the 1.9" intake valve and 220 CFM when supplied with the optional 2.02" intake valve. The popular "Twisted Wedge" cylinder heads flow about 245 CFM on the intake port "out of the box" with their standard 2.02" intake valves. It is actually quite impressive that the stock cylinder head flows 236 CFM "completely stock".




After speaking with some very well respected cylinder head experts, we found out what the CURRENT limits of cylinder head flow for these 3 valve heads are. When using the stock sized intake valve with a fully ported head, up to 296 CFM has been achieved. With a larger intake valve, maximum flow has been measured at 311 CFM. Given this information, and knowing what the maximum POSSIBLE flow capacity for the port is, we set our goal at 315-320 CFM per runner.




the state of the art in 3v porting has finally reached close to 4v. YEEEEHAWWW




the state of the art in cams is CRANE they own CC and crower.

here is a dyno of 368 rwhp SAE with those cams. the car is a bolt=on with windage tray.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEqoUOsSpg8



the point of this? with 311 cfm cubes will rule. there is finally enough airflow to make power with 5.4. N/A i am talking 500rwhp. with an intake, forgings, and cams.

 

thats very interesting. this could prove beneficial for us s/c guys too. im am planning on rebuilding with a forged bottom end and cams and was debating whether or not to have the heads done. im not looking for crazy power, and it looks like cams and headers with the s/c could really open it up without having the heads done. looks like 500 rwhp could be possible with stock heads running only around 10-12 psi.

this makes one wonder though why ford doesnt take advantage of this design. it seems that with some relatively minor changes, the 3v 5.4 could easily be making as much as if not more than the current competitors' trucks...

 

So when will we see this part for our 5.4L 3V motor. If that works on ours ill buy it now, ive been looking into a larger flowing intake Manifold...

 

Head flow is where the power is at for the N/A guys

 

500rwhp on 12psi with stock heads/cams/headers can be done...

 

thats true, especially if you are lucky enough to be running an intercooler. im just cant see myself shelling out $2000+ for the roush i/c upgrade so ill have to make up for it in other ways. i mean for 2k i can get cams, pistons and rods. but if i can save myself some money by not having to get the heads done, id be happy with that

 

I think we can all clearly digest your wording here, thats appreciated. You must be a tuner because this is a mod per mod tune you have to be compiling.

I really wish I had less miles on my truck so I could consider this, it hasn't even started right for a long time (cranks for 3 seconds before fuel is injected, then fires), let alone idle like it used to.

 

Water/meth or nitrous.

Dont be skeered.

 

Bump!

 

i had a nitrous kit on my last, and while that button is fun as hell to push, the PITA and cost of the refills were not worth it for someone like me who wants consistent power in a daily driver...

a water or water/meth injection kit is something im looking into... i dont care as much about the octane boost as i do reducing the air temps, running just water would probably be ok for me. if i could rig up a big enough tank to not have to refill all the time, then it would be something i might give a try... but not till i rebuild the motor though, its staying pretty much as is until i have engine problems...