replacing sway-bar end link. (Clunking)
#1
replacing sway-bar end link. (Clunking)
I broke my sway-bar end link. i could tell by the clunking when i was turning hard. when i looked at it behind the front wheel i could see it was broken.
a closer view, but out of focus.
I bought 2 kits at advance auto for a total of $15 so i can do both sides.
This is what should be in each kit.
a closer view, but out of focus.
I bought 2 kits at advance auto for a total of $15 so i can do both sides.
This is what should be in each kit.
Last edited by lees99f150; 12-19-2005 at 05:34 PM.
#2
The kit will look like this assembled but with the control arm and sway-bar between the red rubber bushings.
I unbolted the old link using a pair of vice grips and a wrench. i then installed the new one using two 9/16 wrenches. tighten it till the nut gets tight. it is a lock nut and will bottom out on the bolt. i left the wheel on and turned it to the side.
The new link installed.
After driving it for a while i will recheck it.
I unbolted the old link using a pair of vice grips and a wrench. i then installed the new one using two 9/16 wrenches. tighten it till the nut gets tight. it is a lock nut and will bottom out on the bolt. i left the wheel on and turned it to the side.
The new link installed.
After driving it for a while i will recheck it.
Last edited by lees99f150; 12-19-2005 at 05:38 PM.
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Same here, thanks for the pics.
I replaced the same thing 2 months ago and the plastic bushing that encases the bolt is a real SOB to pound out.
(I used Moog bolts, but same thing....)
I ended up melting the @#$%^!$%^ plastic off with a torch, then even more kicking and swearing.
Got it out though, took about 3 hours.
I have no idea why it would shear off the head of the bolt.
I suspect a -30 degree Wisconsin winter may have played a part. As stated earlier, I had NO idea it was busted.
Again, thanks for the pics, they should be included in the
Tech Tips.
I replaced the same thing 2 months ago and the plastic bushing that encases the bolt is a real SOB to pound out.
(I used Moog bolts, but same thing....)
I ended up melting the @#$%^!$%^ plastic off with a torch, then even more kicking and swearing.
Got it out though, took about 3 hours.
I have no idea why it would shear off the head of the bolt.
I suspect a -30 degree Wisconsin winter may have played a part. As stated earlier, I had NO idea it was busted.
Again, thanks for the pics, they should be included in the
Tech Tips.
#12
Btw: The replacement Moog sway arm bolts came with (blue) poly bushings and a total of around $7.00 each. (Napa)
I replaced both of them at the same time.
You have to jack up the front of the truck or the last 1/4"
of the bolt won't make it out.
Heap on the anti seize.
If you want, and if theres anything left of them, you can use the old rubber bushings for thread covers on the new bolts.
I replaced both of them at the same time.
You have to jack up the front of the truck or the last 1/4"
of the bolt won't make it out.
Heap on the anti seize.
If you want, and if theres anything left of them, you can use the old rubber bushings for thread covers on the new bolts.
#13
Chalk another one up for bad bolts...
Thanks for the pics and the post. I just picked up my 2000 F150 last month (my first truck...lovin it) and I noticed the bolts were broke on the sway bar while changing my rotors. Excuse my ignorance, but will attaching the sway bar back on really make the truck ride better? Is it a safety thing or just a comfort item. Thanks again!
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