Ok, I had to replace the driver's side head but after getting everything back together and firing it up, it sound like a bunch of midgets with hammers inside the head. The truck ran fine for the few seconds I let it run, except for the noise. I took it all back apart and double checked the timing, which looked to be right. I reassembled it and it did the same thing again. I'm now tearing it down for the third time to find out what the deal is. I'm hoping some of you guys can help shed some light on this subject. My truck is an 02 with a 4.6 romeo and 147k miles. The head I used came off an 03 mustang gt. I checked all the casting numbers on the head as well as the camshaft and they all matched up. Am I missing something or what?

 

Sounds like the gear (sprocket) on the bottom is facing the wrong way - I would check that out first.. If you need picks lemme know .. You know hoe to set it right - You replaced just one head right ? Yeah - did you even remove the bottom sprocket , I don't think you needed too.. Idunno , how did you re -establish - timed..

 

If you're talkin about the crankshaft sprocket, I didn't remove that one, I didn't have to. I made sure that number 1 was one TDC on compression stroke, tore it all down, swapped the heads, lined up the keyway on the new camshaft according to the haynes manual, and put it all back together. This time I've taken both timing chains off and I'm setting the timing from scratch, just to make sure I've got it all right. Only difference is that the sprocket on the crankshaft is one piece, not two like the haynes book says.

 

Yeah - the crank shaft sprocket is the one I 'm thinking of - If that one isn't installed right it will knock like crazy - E-mail me , I know where the instrutions are online - These are FORD instructions , I have to give yuh a code ..

 

I'm assuming you used the cam/head/crank tools to set tdc/lock the cams in place???

 

I've got the engine set at TDC, but I don't have the cam locking tools. Where can I get one? I've tried Advance, Oreilly's, Autozone and Napa, and nobody can get one for me. I don't want to go to the stealership for one, but if I have to I guess I will.

 

Are sure you put the timing chain tensioner and guides in properly? I believe that some engines will make noise for a couple of minutes (at idle) while the tensioner sorts itself out. Was there a mark on the gear and a bright link on the timing chain?

 

You can try the "bright link" "mark" method, but it will only cause you heartache.. I would suggest going to napa, Matco, Snap-on, ect, and get the correct OTC timing tools for the 4.6/5/4.... Even when you think you have it at TDC, the cams have to be in a specific position, which is critical to the whole process....

And not all places are "stealerships"... I'm a Ford Master Tech, and proud to be one.......

 

What about the tensioners? Is the modular engine timing chain quiet right away after instalation on initial start-up?

 

You dont need ford's timing tools to set your timing. The timing chain should have to copper plates on it. One goes on the crank timing mark, the other on the cam timing mark. Make sure that the camshaft sprocket key ways are 90 degrees from the valve cover mounting surface and the crank timing mark is straight down. Once you have your chains and tensioners on, rotate the engine over 2 times and recheck the timing marks. Hope this helps

 

Well said !!, And so am I

 

They may rattle a bit till oil pressure gets up to the tensioners, but to cure that just unplug the crank sensor, and prime the engine first....

Sorry if i insist on the correct tools to do this, or any job, but i would only want to pull it down once, and not play f**karound with it for a couple days or so...

As opposed to popular beleif, it doesnt pay as well the second time..... So, do it once, with the right stuff, and be done with it, you'll be ahead in the long run.....

 

Ok Listen up. I have built/toredown hundreds of these 4.6 engines. A lot of good info above but here is the easiest way I've found. Before you remove the chains on these engines rotate the crankshaft so the keyway is at 12:00. At this location all the pistons are down far enough in the bores so you can't bend the valves when you rotate the cams with chains removed. Now do not, I repeat do not move the crank again until the cyl heads are reinstalled and both chains with tensioners etc.are completely reinstalled and tensioner release pins are removed. Remove the chain tensioners,chains, cyl heads, etc. Do whatever you have to do to work on the engine. Now reinstall the cyl heads. Look for two off colored chain links on each chain. These start out as copper color but get discolored as the engine ages. If you cannot find them then mark one link and count equal number of links from that link and mark it also. You want the same number of links between both timing marks on the same chain. Now install one the chain with the chain timing mark on the CRANK timing gear timing dot. Move the chain by hand up to the cam timing gear and rotate the cam gear ONLY (use wrench on cam gear bolt) to line up the timing chain link with the cam gear timing dot. Install the tensioner leaving the tensioner retaining pin in place yet. Now perform the same for the rightside head. Visually recheck that all 4 chain timing marks are lined up with all four gear marks. Then release the tensioner pins. You can now rotate the entire engine by hand. If everything was done right you are now in perfect time and no valves have been bent. My concern with your engine right now is that you may have bent valves. Look for valve marks on the piston domes. Even if there is a slight mark where a valve hit the piston dome the valve is probably bent and will have to be replaced. I wrote version of this procedure up for the Ford repair manual years ago but it was rejected because I was told Ford wanted to sell the cam retainer tools to the dealers. Good luck.

 

Thanks for posting that procedure DYNOTECH - I'm saving this one - I know this will come in handy..

Yeah , I hope he didn't bend the valves as well.. That would suck after all that work..

Thanx again..

 

Ok, here's the deal. I was replacing the left head, so I left the right side timing chain and stuff alone. After the second time it not being right, I reset the whole timing stuff from scratch according to info I got from the Haynes book and the website jbrew provided. Thanks again. The crankshaft sprocket is one piece on my engine, not two. Apparently what the problem was is that because I didn't remove the right side chain, the one in front, I couldn't see that the chain I was setting would jump a link when I set the tensioner. Once I took it all apart and did it from scratch, everything now works like a charm. No spitting or sputtering, no loud clacking, and no bent valves! I guess that's just a lesson learned. Thanks for all the help guys.