01 Supercab 4x4 with 5.4l with 77k. Coming home from work it began shuddering/missing and the check engine light started blinking. A few more miles, it stayed on steadily. Ran by AutoZone and it gave a code for misfire on 8.

I know the #8 is on the drivers side closest to the firewall. What should I do? Is there a way to remove the COP and sparkplug without taking the fuel rail off? I am still running the original spark plugs and was not planning on changing them until 100k. I have searched the forums and have come up with many scenarios. Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance,
Tommy

 

Its most likely the COP for that cylinder. Shoulden't be time for plugs yet. I replaced mine at 90k and they still looked alright. You shoulden't have to remove the fuel rail to get the cop out. Just unbolt the rail from the manifold (two bolts), then you can wiggle it a bit out of the way. You might have to climb up into the engine bay so you can reach way back there to get at the cop. There is 1 bolt holding the coil on the plug, remove it and it should come right out. Good luck, hope you get her fixed.

 

Thanks for the reply. I am looking at it now, and sure in the hell looks hard to get out. Geez, who designed this crap?

 

LOL, Ohh commmonnnn, it's not that bad lol..#7 goes bad , then the fuel rail needs to be loosened or taken off - #8 should be cake ounce you get everything out of the way. If you stick a floor jack under the rear end and jackerup, it's a little easier to reach back to 8..

 

You don't have to remove the fuel rail to get that coil out. Twist and hold yer mouth just right, and it'll come out.

 

Well, not sure what I did.

Trying to watch the Mavericks beat Phoenix....so im a littel distracted.

I stared at it a few minutes, cussed it, fondled it, unplugged it(#8), stared at it some more and unplugged it once more, blew over the coils with air. Hooked the battery back-up and started it up.

The service engine light is off, it still stumbled at little bit, but kept on driving it. Drove back by AutoZone (across the street), no codes. Came back home, took off my billet grill, tool box, and my sirius radio. Came inside, looked at new trucks for $35000 plus (said no to that), went back outside stared at it some more and went for another drive. It stumbled for a few minutes, I dogged on it a little and for the last ten miles it ran like great.

Not sure what I did.....it was either the staring, cussing, or fondling. Hopefully, this is the end of this dilemma as my motorcycles as the only means of transportation kind of sucks.

What do you all think?

Much thanks to this board as I've been on here for years and f150online has saved me lot's of time and money.

Go Mavs,
Tommy

 

Most likley the COP is weak, or your trucks possessed lol. Re-setting your comp and three 60-40 decels within the same drivecycle reajusts the parameters, thus your computer tries it's best to compinsate. It will run smoother, but if your COP is on it's last leg, your misfire will be back soon. When your truck hits overdrive bearly give it gas at low rpms - I found a weak coil will cause a skip or shudder . I would change it now anyway, you know it's buggy and unreliable. I wouldn't trust it and 8's easy to change.

 

If the autozone is right across the street your comp. didnt have enough time to pull a CEL code. Pop the $50 for the new coil,Put it on and mash on it...


1997 F-150 XLT Supercab 5.4L (330 c.i.)

 

Jbrew and F150...you are both right, the shudder, shimmies and shakes are back with a fury. I should of known better!

Thinking about doing the spark plugs while I am in there.

 

This is exactly what my truck does. When it hits OD I barely give it gas and it shudders. So how do I know what coil is bad if it won't turn on the CEL?

My truck has been doing this for a year, and I can't make it stop. I want to sell it but nobody's going to want it unless I can fix it.

Any suggestions???

 

Well Chris, here's what I finally did after that headache and it was like a new truck and even better -- and under 2 bills - If I were you I would click the last link and get this kit before they stop selling them.


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1
(Original COP's that Ford Motor installed at the factory) - New OEM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...MEWN%3AIT&rd=1
(Never used injectors - Boch type 3's) - New OEM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-F...mZ806996048
COP's & Motorcraft Plugs - package deal - puchased this for a friend.

These are items I personally puchased for me and one friend with a truck similiar to mine and can say that these were new OEM parts ....Try buying these from a dealership. I purchase 8 brand new Boch type 3's injectors for my motor and 8 brand new COP's all for under $200 - The dealership would have charged over $1000 for the two ...

 

Sorry but I can't get the links to work.

So what would you say was the official diagnosis on your truck? Injectors or coils?

 

had the same prob as chrissbutts, bought the cops and plugs off ebay and had a friend install them. the cops look cheap, like made in china, but works so far! problem solved.

 

That was my first impression - I didn't use these myself - purchased for friends and they worked fine. I can't remember who exactly , but someone else in these forums purchased these before me and backed them up as well, there clear on top instead of black with part numbers or like the stock motorcrafts with the stickers on them that have Motorcraft spelled out and then the part #'s - which happen to be the one's I purchased from a new crate motor on ebay. But hey !! they work great!! and a cheap way to solve headaches. There is no actuall way to test a COP accuratly under a load without a mode 6 that gives a history of cylinder misfire(the only way to pinpoint a faulty coil). I went thru two months of drama trying to pinpoint issues causeing missfires. Thru investigations the best thing to due is to change them all out when one goes bad - it's an itegrity thing with the high tech 5.4L modular motor, just replacing one coil could add to the drama. hope this helps. here's the correct link -

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-F...temZ8072277000

 

This winter, when I'm off, I will be supercharging (procharger) - I will replacing the MotorCrafts plugs w/ densoIradiums (the only alternate 4 this motor besides NGK's) and also the COP's system with Granitelli's to get away from the low sparking OEM Motorcrafts. I plan to take digital photo's with discriptions of the step by step showing this procedure covering all the bases - Sparkplugs Specificly for some of the people with blowout problems and prevenitive ways to keep your coils healthy - Can't wait to feel the power!!! something I'm looking forward to and will share the experiance.