2011 EB Leak Radiator Overflow Coolant Tank Heater Hose
#1
2011 EB Leak Radiator Overflow Coolant Tank Heater Hose
I have a leak where the heater hose connects to the overflow tank. I have already replaced the hose ($50.00) but it is still leaking. Has anybody tried putting sealant tape on the push on connector? Or maybe some sort of lube or sealant on the connector? I really do not want to buy a new $200 recovery tank. Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
#3
replaced hose
I replaced the whole hose, and it has a seal in the female end of the hose. its not a o ring, but there is a seal in it. That's why I think the male end of the coolant tank might be warped. It doesn't leak all the time, but mostly overnight when the truck sits, but not every night. The pic is upside down but you can see on the left the male end of the coolant tank that the hose attaches too.
#4
Is there a fix to this or just another fine Ford engineering error that we need to correct by buying new parts for ? I have the same problem and replaced the hose only to have it leak just as it did before replacing the hose. What is the deal here? Dealership told me that the tank was fine. I cant keep taking this back and forth to the dealership day after day!!
#5
I ended up draining coolant tank and getting as much coolant out of hose and letting the end of hose dry really good. Then using red rtv gasket sealant coat the section of the hose where the white seal is, I put a pretty good bead in there. Then connected hose to tank and let dry over night. My first application lasted about a year before I had to redo it. I have 191k miles on my truck.
#6
I had this exact issue on my 2011 F150 FX4 5.0L at 92k miles. Based on my research of others who had this issue, you have to replace the hose with fitting and the de-gas tank assembly together. A new hose and fitting won't seat properly on an old de-gas/overflow reservoir. The hose will run you about $35 and the tank about $250 or so. You'll have to flush your coolant too when you change these parts out. I did the work myself in an evening for about $400 with parts, coolant and everything. A dealer will charge around $700. All you need is patience and basic hand tools. I didn't find any YouTube videos on "how to", but it wasn't hard to figure out.
Items Ordered:
1. BL3Z8A080B
TANK ASY - RADIATOR OVERFLOW Price: $243.90
2. BL3Z8C350A
HOSE ASY Price: $31.56
Check you owner's manual for Coolant specs.
I used:
Bought 3, but only used 1.5.
Instruction Overview:
1. Let engine cool
2. Disconnect MAF and air intake assembly (2 hose clamps) - no need to take other lines off
3. Tape over intake to protect from debris
4. Drain coolant from pet****, passenger side bottom of radiator (helps to take air dam off)
I added a plastic hose to the pet**** to minimize mess, close pet**** when drained.
5. Disconnect the leaky fitting (remove retainer clip)
6. Disconnect the leaking hose from the Y (above water pump) - SAVE the hose clamp
7. Undo two bolts holding airbox/coolant reservoir 10mm or 12mm
8. Disconnect the vent hose from the driver's side top of radiator
9. Disconnect other hose from coolant tank
10. Remove the tank/air box assembly
11. Reuse the airbox clips, cap and external intake shroud
12. Connect new hose assembly and new coolant/airbox and all other hoses
13. Fill with 100% distilled water (check for leaks)
14. Reconnect air intake and MAF sensor
15. Continue with normal radiator flush process and refill with your 50/50 DW and coolant
Hope this helps someone on here. This forum has helped me with many repairs.
Items Ordered:
1. BL3Z8A080B
TANK ASY - RADIATOR OVERFLOW Price: $243.90
2. BL3Z8C350A
HOSE ASY Price: $31.56
Check you owner's manual for Coolant specs.
I used:
Bought 3, but only used 1.5.
Instruction Overview:
1. Let engine cool
2. Disconnect MAF and air intake assembly (2 hose clamps) - no need to take other lines off
3. Tape over intake to protect from debris
4. Drain coolant from pet****, passenger side bottom of radiator (helps to take air dam off)
I added a plastic hose to the pet**** to minimize mess, close pet**** when drained.
5. Disconnect the leaky fitting (remove retainer clip)
6. Disconnect the leaking hose from the Y (above water pump) - SAVE the hose clamp
7. Undo two bolts holding airbox/coolant reservoir 10mm or 12mm
8. Disconnect the vent hose from the driver's side top of radiator
9. Disconnect other hose from coolant tank
10. Remove the tank/air box assembly
11. Reuse the airbox clips, cap and external intake shroud
12. Connect new hose assembly and new coolant/airbox and all other hoses
13. Fill with 100% distilled water (check for leaks)
14. Reconnect air intake and MAF sensor
15. Continue with normal radiator flush process and refill with your 50/50 DW and coolant
Hope this helps someone on here. This forum has helped me with many repairs.
#7
You overpaid for those parts.
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...L3Z8A080B.html
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...L3Z8C350A.html
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...L3Z8A080B.html
https://parts.lakelandford.com/p/For...L3Z8C350A.html
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#9
#11
The kit from www.pegasusautoracing.com is part # SHK-Ford-001. You can get the hose in blue, red or black. It comes with clamps and a coupler. The hose has to be trimmed to required lenght
#13
#14
Thanks all for the tip on Pegasus Auto. I want to know if you all recommend just replacing the whole hose with this Motorcraft part?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...01446&jsn=2198
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...01446&jsn=2198
#15