2011 Platinum corroded rims
#1
2011 Platinum corroded rims
All four of my rims are severely corroded. I knew it for a while, but didn't worry about it because I'd bring it in before the warranty was up. Well, that got away from me so I'm on my own. I haven't seen pics of this type of corrosion before although I've searched. Has anyone remedied this themselves? Now is the time, since I have four new tires i my garage. I can remove the old tire, work on a rim, put on the tire, without the truck being out of action by rotating the spare around.
I see some people saying refinish at $100 per rims but I'd like do it myself if feasible; it's what I do. I have a blast cabinet; I also have a lift so I can work on it while standing. Any recommendations?
I see some people saying refinish at $100 per rims but I'd like do it myself if feasible; it's what I do. I have a blast cabinet; I also have a lift so I can work on it while standing. Any recommendations?
#2
#4
The nooks and crannies are intimidating to me. It's easy to sand/polish flat spots with machines but crevices like this may take some time and effort. I think I'll try the polish ball with some rubbing compound first. If that doesn't work, I'll blast a part of the inside barrel and attempt to polish. Blasting will remove any damage but leaves a rough finish. I've not yet tried to polish a blasted piece of aluminium before. I need to do more research.
#5
The nooks and crannies are intimidating to me. It's easy to sand/polish flat spots with machines but crevices like this may take some time and effort. I think I'll try the polish ball with some rubbing compound first. If that doesn't work, I'll blast a part of the inside barrel and attempt to polish. Blasting will remove any damage but leaves a rough finish. I've not yet tried to polish a blasted piece of aluminium before. I need to do more research.
My suggestion about rubbing compound and/or sanding was for you to do it by hand, not by machine. If the corrosion is not deep, it should come off quickly.
I had a few scratches/gouges on my right front wheel that I didn't notice when I bought the truck last April. They were removed with a grinding wheel that left much finer scratches and these disappeared by my using progressively finer sandpaper (by hand on a sanding block) followed by rubbing compound and polishing compound. Now, you can't see where the damage was, and, I have not needed to clearcoat the areas either, which was a surprise to me.
Aluminum is a soft metal and it doesn't take a lot of work to remove a layer of it. Clearcoat would be even easier to remove, in my opinion.
- Jack
Last edited by JackandJanet; 10-03-2015 at 08:26 PM.
#6
The factory Platinum wheels are aluminum, polished in fact, but they are 100% clearcoated from the factory. What you're seeing is the clearcoat being compromised. As another poster suggested, your only real way is to strip the clear coat, have them re-polished and recoated. They are currently beyond the point of repair with polish and compound since the clearcoat is damaged.
#7
I agree that it's corrosion under the clear coat that's causing the uglies. A couple of options. Replace them with refinished wheels. I did this with a damaged wheel on our Elantra Touring. Detroit Wheel IIRC. Second option is to sand blast and paint. With paint, when and not if, the uglies return a little surface prep and recoat. I blasted and repainted the wheels on my Tacoma and liked the results and the money I saved.
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#8
#9
Well, I put he tires on this Sunday and the new tires draw my eye away from the terrible looking rims. I probably think about fixing hem for a while but then get less interested in doing it as time goes by. Bead blasting a rim is effortless, but takes an amazingly long time.
Let's see if the cold winter months get be me some initiative to do this though. Thanks for the suggestions.
Let's see if the cold winter months get be me some initiative to do this though. Thanks for the suggestions.