Found out the hard way my the 2014 SCrew I bought used is missing the jack kit. The hole under the rear seat is empty. While I try and resolve this with the dealer, I don't like the idea of not being able to change a flat. A bottle jack and breaker bar gets me most of the way there, but I need a way to get the spare lowered.

I can't tell from the manual what the jack extension end looks like. On my 2000 F150 the bar was flat at the end, can someone tell me what the end of the extension looks like on the 2014? Is it flat, square, hex, etc...

Thanks in advance

 

You've removed the "insert" under the driver side rear seat correct? There are two wings nuts that you then loosen and slide a large plastic black box from passenger side over to the hole.

The handle is also in that box, and it's end is a hook, like a 3/4 eye hook.

 

The two wingnuts are all that's left. I can stick my arm all the way through, nothing there.

From the manual it looks like the opposite side from the hook end goes in the hole in the bumper

I am trying to figure out what the winch end of the handle is. Can I take a piece of long square stock and use that to lower the spare?

 

Oh damn, I'm sorry, you're trying to lower the spare! My apologies.

Found this for ya:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2009-2010-20...-/221727237684

 

For what the jack handle looks like (excerpted from the 2014 F-150 owner's manual) ...As for the jack ... Abandon/ditch the OEM and purchase a Harbor Freight 3-ton floor jack (they're less $$$$$ than the OEM jack).

(owner's manual) Don't have one -OR- would like a digital, searchable desktop document?.

 

Thanks, if the dealer doesn't get me a new one, I probably won't buy the OEM one.
Haven't seen one go for less than $200 on ebay, which is a lot of money for a crappy scissor jack in a plastic box.

The link MCDavis put up gave a pretty good closeup pic. I think I can take a long piece of square stock, and grind the down and make that work for the spare. Throw a floor jack and breaker bar under the seat and be done with it.

 

On the right end side, which inserts into a hole on the right side of your license plate on the rear bumper, it is square like a square drive. I forget now, but it is most likely 1/2" Could be 3/8", but that seems kind of small. Doesn't really matter, because you are not going to connect a bunch of socket extensions. Just buy the kit online. Apparently this is such a common issue that these kits are sold online. It will be cheaper than getting it from a dealership. Counter clockwise to lower. Clockwise to raise. Lefty Loosie. Righty Tightie.


Nest to consider how you will lift the truck. You already have a bottle jack. That's good. It may not be good enough.....or so I have found with a lift kit. Actually, a bottle jack with the ram fully extended, was not able to raise my Transit Connect high enough to get the tire off the ground because the suspension travel was not fully extended. 5" bottle jack piston vs 6" suspension travel. Although that should not be a problem with an F-150 if you are lifting from the lower control arm in the front, and the differential in the rear. A regular bottle jack will not be high enough to reach the rear axle tube. A regular bottle jack will not be good enough to raise your truck from the frame rails.


You may want to look into a double ram bottle jack. I have had success with those on other vehicles.



With a 6" lift, I found that the bottle jacks are good enough to lift under the differential, but the base is very small and I fear that the little bottle jack saddle is too small. I wanted something just a little more stable. A UniJack works pretty well. I also like the Torin SUV/Truck floor jack & Torin Hybrid Jack. You will probably also want appropriately rated jack stands with the proper height extension. A 6" lift put my frame rails at 18" high. A lot less to worry about if your truck isn't lifted.



For anyone who is interested, a 35" tire fits perfectly under your truck. Mine seated right into the spare tire well without any issue what-so-ever.