2009 - 2014 F-150

Battery issues

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Old 04-20-2014, 07:55 PM
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Battery issues

I have searched this forum for the last hour and can't find anything on this problem. I have a 2010 F150 FX4 Screw 5.4

So it started last night. I got up to lock the doors with the remote and didn't hear my horn. I got my other remote same problem. I went to check the truck and the battery was ran all the way down. Far enough that none of the interior lights would come on nor would the chimes with the key in the ignition. I could hear a clicking noise under the dash. I disconnected my ground put my battery charger on it set at 2 amps an hour and went to bed. I left that on for about 6 hours.

Now when I went to check it this morning it started and I was happy. About 8 hours later I go to the store and found the seats not working, radio not playing. When I start the engine the dash board cycles but the lighting is very dim. This is my first problem with this truck.

After doing some reading on the interwebs I found that I might not have enough amperage in the batteries. So I've started charging again with everything disconnected.

Whats you's guy's opinion here?
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:10 PM
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Replace the battery, it's done. Modern fords tend to do weird things when the battery is bad. At around 9.5-10.0 volts the system will not allow the truck to start to protect the PCM and other electronics on the vehicle. Basically when the voltage drops below the threshold it goes into protect mode. When the voltage is slightly above the cutoff voltage some secondary functions are disabled to provide more voltage to start the engine or keep it running, like radio, lighting, power seats etc.

Since your truck is fine once you get it up and running that tells me the charging system is fine, your battery will not keep the charge. Common problem with fords since about 2002-03
 

Last edited by 05RedFX4; 04-20-2014 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 04-20-2014, 09:26 PM
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Before you throw parts at the problem ...
  • clean the battery posts and cable ends.
  • have the charging system tested.
  • have a load-test done on the battery.
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 10:34 PM
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Does the 2010 have the BMS on it? I've read up on it and will try to do what the instructions say on it before I go and spend 150 bucks.
 
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Old 04-20-2014, 11:47 PM
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Like Joe said - go get the alternator tested and the battery load tested.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 11:06 AM
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fordmonty - Does the 2010 have the BMS on it?...
No.

2011+
.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 01:37 PM
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could it be a problem with an intermittent short in the system?

By your description it sounds like it runs fine for awhile and then quickly dies... makes me think maybe there is something shorting out and sucking the battery down quick.
 
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Old 04-21-2014, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mkosu04
could it be a problem with an intermittent short in the system?

By your description it sounds like it runs fine for awhile and then quickly dies... makes me think maybe there is something shorting out and sucking the battery down quick.

A LOT of the batteries built in the last 5 or six years seem to have a problem with intermitant shorts or open connections INSIDE the battery. They'll be fine one minute but will then short or open inside and the vehicle will suddenly die like you turned it off but then something inside the battery will move and the battery can be recharged and will work fine until the next time it happens! It kind of sounds like that's what your's has. Take your battery into an auto parts place and have it checked but that may or may not find any problem. They checked one of mine three times under warranty before they saw it fail. If in doubt you might want to just go ahead and buy a new one and keep the old battery for other use around the garage.
 
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Old 04-22-2014, 03:28 AM
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I took the truck to my local Napa and had everything checked. Battery showed good. Which was odd since I had issues with it. Alternator showed good as well. Here is what I think it was. I do have an amp in the truck and the remote power was plugged into circuit 38 with the little fuse adapter thing. I have since moved it to another locations. Number 10 I do believe. I also charged the batter for till it was down to less than 2 amps. Then left the truck untouched for 8 hours. Everything works now so I'm chalking this one up to my own stupidity. Thank you gentlemen.
 
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Old 04-22-2014, 09:32 PM
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Old 04-23-2014, 07:32 PM
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I have a 2010 Screw Lariat 4x4. Two years in and the battery started dying. Even the dealership said that it was something to watch. After a hesitant start one morning, took it out and replaced with a AutoZone Duralast. No issues since.

FWIW - I had a similar issue with my 2002. Two years and the factory battery started crapping out. Replaced with Duralast and never had another problem.
 



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