Did everyone install the FUSE and RELAY marked AL3T-15A416-AA that was in the GLOVEBOX of your new 2010 F150 FX4...

I dont have any instruction from the DEALER about this item. There was NO INSTRUCTION with the item as well.

One post here says it has to do with your OEM INSTALLED FORD BRAKE CONTROLLER. I checked the OWNER's GUIDE and did find a SLOT in the POWER DISTRIBUTION PANEL under the hood that calls for a FUSE in SLOT 21 LABELED "TRAILER TOW BATTERY CHARGE" and a RELAY in SLOT 9 LABELED "TRAILER TOW BATTERY CHARGER... Neither SLOT 9 or 21 have a FUSE or RELAY INSTALLED so I assume this is where these two items go.

I also discovered from the OWNER's MANUAL I have another FUSE PANEL INSIDE the truck under the RIGHT HAND side of instrument panel. Drawing looks like next to the PASSENGER DOOR. Was not aware of this panel being inside the truck. It shows at least ONE FUSE associated with the BRAKE CONTROLLER FUSE # 33.

My real question is DOES THE OEM TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLER installed by FORD require the FUSE and RELAY mentioned above to OPERATE MY TRAILER BRAKES. From the description of the labels from the owner's manual I am thinking this ONLY ALLOWS the TRUCK to CHARGE THE TRAILER BATTERIES probably using the BLACK WIRE marked +12vdc on the TRAILER CONNECTOR lid cover.

 

Why not pop the relay and fuse in to see if it fixes your problem?

 

Stromtech - haha Will be doing that shortly... I think I will find the +12VDC coming from the TRUCK on the BLACK wire + and the WHITE wire - when I do it.

Whether or not that fixes my problem is another story- I finally pulled out my TRAILER CABLE from the trailer and can make all these tests from my TAIL GATE... Everything tells me I have a bad FORD OEM BRAKE CONTROLLER MODULE as I only read +1.2VDC on the CONNECTOR BLUE WIRE when pushing in the FOOT PEDAL and can read +10.0 VDC on the BLUE wire when using the MANUAL SLIDER ****... Hopefully FORD will let me plug into one of their NEW TRUCKS to make same measurement when I go down there next week (probably NOT haha)....

 

STORMTECH - No luck... First i checked the FUSE for the OEM BRAKE MODULE in the inside fuse panel I didnt know I had - #33 10A and it checked good... Then I plugged in the RELAY and 10A FUSE from the GLOVEBOX into the under the hood FUSE PANEL (Slots 9 and 21) which didnt do anything different on APPLYING BRAKES using the BRAKE PEDAL still only get +1.2VDC doing this...

I did see +14.2 VOLTS DC coming from the TRUCK on the BLACK WIRE + and WHITE WIRE - which confirms the TRUCK will now provide TRAILER BATTERY CHARGING when connected... SO at least that is working...

Im off to the FORD place MONDAY and see what they will say (50MILE RUN)... I think one of my neighbors has a 2009-2011 F150 maybe I can flag him down and see if he has the TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER SETUP on his truck..

 

did you adj the gain on the controller? that will put more power to the brakes

 

BOBWHITECAR - Sure did... It adjusts from 0VDC to +10 VDC using the MANUAL SLIDER SWITCH buttons. I slide the trailer tires when it is adjusted over +3 VDC but that only happens when I use the SLIDER SWITCH. Doesnt do anything using the BRAKE PEDAL. Now That I can measure voltages with MY METER if I RAISE the CONTROL VOLTAGE to MAX +10VDC then I can read with MY METER CONNECTED only +1.2VDC feeding the BLUE wire going to the ELECTRIC BRAKES. The BRAKE INFORMATION PANEL VOLTAGE BAR DISPLAY always shows MAX level but the DBC VOLTAGE LEVEL agrees with the setting of the PUSH BUTTON even though the DC VOLTAGE READING I see on my meter only goes +1.2VDC with MAX SETTING...

 

Roy, this is getting VERY confusing when you are posting the same thing in multiple threads! Forum etiquette is start one thread about your problem and stick with JUST THAT THREAD till it's solved! Forum etiquette also says not to hijack other people's threads.

Not trying to give you a hard time, just trying to help.

Have you even contacted the dealer yet?

 

GLC - Yes I know - Im getting confused myself which isnt hard to do when you are old as me hehe... I need to drop the question about the FUSE and THE RELAY got that one answered now.... Not sure how to close one out....

 

Well I guess I actually HIGHJACKED the other one maybe I should go back into the woods and shoot rabbits or something where i dont need a WORKING ELECTRIC BRAKE SYSTEM...

Going to dealer tomorrow. I think I have enough info now to convince them it is a BAD CONTROLLER... That was my game plan from getgo... All the dealer is going to say It works great on my TEST SET - Must be your trailer....

I would sure love to use my TRAILER HITCH DEMO CABLE I made up here on someone elses trailer connection... The only thing I could not demo was a SIX AMP DRAIN on the BLUE and WHITE WIRE that feeds the ELECTRIC BRAKES. Need at least that much current draw to TURN OFF the TRAILER DISCONNECTED MESSAGE. I found one headlight in my jump box and added that but it wasnt enough current draw - need two in parallel i guess to draw enough current...

 

Thanks for the help - me gots answer now about what to do with the FUSE and RELAY..

 

Im having same problem with my 2011 ford f150 don't have any running lights when hook up to my rv just break and turn signals work? I checked all fuses and relays everything looks good. I have a break force installed and that not working either maybe 2 problems are connected. but when I hook up to trailer it still say trailer disconnected im my apps on truck any one else have tis issue and whats the issue thanks