Adding Power Mirrors
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05-17-2011, 09:57 PM
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Adding Power Mirrors
I'm not sure if this should be here or in the Electrical Forum. If there is a better place for it, can you please move it?
Pictures are in my album. I'm sorry for the not so good picts. I'll get better ones and post them.
Adding Power/ Heated/ Signal /Puddle Lamp Mirrors
There has been a lot of discussion about adding power mirrors to a truck that did not have any. So I figured I would do a write up if anyone wants to take on the challenge.
It would have been easy to replace the existing mirror glass with heated glass and run some wires but I figured if I’m going to that much trouble I will add the whole package.
Originally I set out to get my harness connectors from the junk yard. However it seems that trucks in Maryland never go to the junk yard. I called 15 yards around here and only one place had a truck newer than 06 and it was already stripped. So I had to order the connectors and switch from Ford. I used TASCA Ford for all the OEM parts. A bit of advice....When I got the mirror switch it did not work. Unfortunately I had already thrown out the box and was told I could not return the parts without the box. SO make sure you keep your boxes, even for the mirrors at least until the warranty is up. The new switch arrived, plugged it in and now I can enjoy the fruits of my labor.
!!WARNING!! Although this was a simple project for me, the electrical system in your vehicle is very sensitive. If you do not understand how the electrical system works, how to read and understand a diagram and connector views or get frustrated easily then do not attempt this project. One wrong connection or loose wire and you can fry the SJB, various modules, fuses and or relays. If you untwist a twisted set of wires than it will cause the component or system to malfunction. DO NOT PRY CONNECTORS APART!
I advise that you do not pierce the wire insulation for testing. This can break a wire and also breaks the insulation which could result in corrosion or failure down the road. Back pin the wire terminal at the connector.
I do not use wire taps in any of my electrical work. I don’t like them. A tight mechanical connection that is soldered and sealed with double wall shrink tube is water proof, corrosion proof, vibration proof and much stronger than any wire tap.
All connections for mirror power, signal lights and puddle lights were made at or near the SJB.
Connections for POWER FEED to heated mirrors at connector- C213- right side of blower box behind glove box.
Harness covered in convolute where needed to prevent abrasion.
Mirror harness secured to factory harness with cable ties.
This is something that will be with your vehicle for it’s entire life. Do it neat and right the first time and you’ll never have to touch it again.
Items needed:
1 Left Mirror 7L3Z17683AE
1 Right Mirror 7L3Z17682AE
1 Mirror Switch Connector 3U2Z14S411AJC
2 Mirror connectors 3U2Z14S411DLA
1 Power Mirror Switch 7L3Z17B676AA-Non power fold switch (Part depends upon your choice of Power Fold Mirrors or Non power Fold.)
2 Rolls electrical tape. Use the good 3M Super 88
1 Inline Fuse Holder
1 7.5 Amp Fuse
1 Aux Switch
18g GXL wire various colors, 20ft each color
Dual wall shrink tube- Included with factory connectors- Better than any aftermarket shrink tube you can buy.
Small cable ties
Large cable ties
Convolute
Harness clips
Solder
Soldering iron
Dremel with various bits
A lot of patience
The first thing I did was decide where I wanted the PMS(Power Mirror Switch). I don’t like it in the door panel simply because it will get soaked when the window is down. I decided to put mine in the spot where the 4X4 selector switch would be if I had a 4WD truck. I made a mount from thick plexi glass. However if you want yours in the door panel by all means do so. You will need to cut out the mounting hole for the PMS. You can see where it goes by looking at the underside of the door panel.
To make wiring easier remove unused wires from all connectors. Study diagram.
Disconnect your battery.
Next I made the passenger side harness. The wire from pin 1 will need to be long enough to connect to the Heated Mirror power feed at the drivers side cowl panel. Include a wire feed for the MAIN MIRROR POWER to the mirror switch in this harness. It must go from the SJB to the mirror switch. The wires for pins 8,10,11 will leave this harness just as it passes through the door pillar above the SJB. The remaining wires will go to the PMS.
Next I made the Driver Side harness. The wires for pins 8, 10, 11 will exit this harness and travel the length of the cab to the SJB. The wire for pin 1 will exit this harness just after it comes thorough the pillar. The remaining wires will go to the PMS.
Tape the harness the entire length. When you get to the point where wires exit the harness pull those out and continue taping. Go back and tape the exited wires creating another sub harness.
Remember to leave the wires for the PMS, puddle lamps, ground, signal and heater long enough to make the connections.
Carefully feed the wires through the door into the cab.
Dress the appropriate harness along the door following the correct path. (unfortunately I did not get pictures of this). Secure the harness to the door using the harness clips. Tape the clips to the harness and push the clips into the holes. Cover the harness in convolute where it transitions from the face of the door to inside the window well.
Take the wires inside the cab and run them to the appropriate places. After you have done this you can now start securing the PM harness and sub harness to the factory harness with cable ties. Neatness counts, you will be graded on this. Remember to cover with convolute when necessary. If in doubt, cover it. Tape the ends of convolute to the harness so the convolute can not move or abrade the wires. If wares exit the convolute in mid run tape the wires where they will pass through the seam of the convolute to prevent abrasion. Tape around wires and convolute.
Now at the PMS you should have 7 wires or 9 wires depending on how you wired everything. If you notice pins 4 and 5 at the Mirror Connectors are common all motors. You can essentially connect these two wires together and run one wire from each connector to the PMS, that is how I did it. Connect these wires to the PMS connector. Connect the wire from pin 3 to a suitable ground with a ring terminal and fine thread self taping sheet metal screw. I chose the reinforcing panel behind the radio. DO NOT INSTALL THE SWITCH.
Moving over to the passenger side. Locate your two ground wires from pins 8. Crimp a ring terminal on those two wires and secure the terminal to either the main ground just above the SJB or drill a hole in the pillar and attach the ground with a FINE thread self taping sheet metal screw.
The following connections are CRITICAL. You must be very careful not to break connectors or cut wires too short.
BEFORE YOU CUT ANYTHING- CHECK THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR YOUR VEHICLE SO THAT YOU TAP INTO THE CORRECT WIRES. This is just an example of my vehicle, yours may differ.
Next you will want to connect the puddle lights and signal lights.
The Puddle lights were spliced into the White wire at Connector 238, cavity 15.
The Left signal light was spliced into the BU/GN wire at Connector 2280F cavity 21 at the SJB
The Right signal light was spliced into the YE/VT wire at Connector C2280F cavity 23 at the SJB.
Power to the mirrors was obtained from splicing the BN/RD (Cig lighter feed) wire at Connector C213 and installing an inline fuse holder. Connect the fuse holder to the wire going to the PMS PIN 1, this is important. Do not confuse the PMS pin 1 with the Mirror Connector pin 1. I placed the fuse holder in this location because of easy access and to keep all the fuses in the same location. Make sure the 7.5 amp fuse is installed.
Plug in the mirror switch, reconnect the battery and enjoy your mirrors.
TO CONNECT THE HEATED MIRROR FUNCTION- DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY
The heated mirror relay is controlled by the Climate Control Module. This module sends a TIMED GROUND to the heater relay. HOWEVER if you do not have heated anything you have to modify the wiring OR buy a module. I took apart the module and found that the ORIGINAL module does not have the button or LED soldered onto the control board. I personally do not want to f*^$ with a 200+ dollar module and risk damage. SO.....we are going to add a switch to apply ground to this circuit OR you can obtain a module from a junk yard that has the heated function. You will still have to splice into the power feed for the heaters.
Clip the WH/OG wire, cavity 25 a few inches back from the CCM connector. By leaving a few inches of wire you have the option of reconnecting it at a later date if you get a module with the heated function.
You will solder a wire onto the WH/OG wire coming out of the harness and connect it to one terminal of your AUX switch. Connect the other terminal of the AUX switch to a suitable ground. I chose the same ground screw I used for the PMS ground wire, pin 3.
Now you have to contort yourself to look up into the left hand side top cowl. You will see a sub harness with a big grey connector. CAREFULLY pull the connector away from the cowl panel and unclip the harness from the cowl. Locate the BN/WH wire and clip this at the connector. Solder the two wires from the mirror connectors, Pin 1 to this wire. Tape, convolute and secure as necessary and return the harness and connector to the original location.
Reconnect your battery.
Now when you turn on the AUX switch you will close the ground circuit to the Heated Mirror/Window Def Relay. The FEED/POWER side of the relay is HOT when the IGN SWITCH is in AUX and RUN. So as long as you have the AUX Switch in the on position you will be heating your mirrors if the IGNITION switch is in AUX or RUN position.
The drawback to this method is that the DEF circuit is no longer timed. You do run the risk of over heating your mirrors and or burning out the element. You could get a timed relay board and wire it into the circuit if you wanted.
Pictures are in my album. I'm sorry for the not so good picts. I'll get better ones and post them.
Adding Power/ Heated/ Signal /Puddle Lamp Mirrors
There has been a lot of discussion about adding power mirrors to a truck that did not have any. So I figured I would do a write up if anyone wants to take on the challenge.
It would have been easy to replace the existing mirror glass with heated glass and run some wires but I figured if I’m going to that much trouble I will add the whole package.
Originally I set out to get my harness connectors from the junk yard. However it seems that trucks in Maryland never go to the junk yard. I called 15 yards around here and only one place had a truck newer than 06 and it was already stripped. So I had to order the connectors and switch from Ford. I used TASCA Ford for all the OEM parts. A bit of advice....When I got the mirror switch it did not work. Unfortunately I had already thrown out the box and was told I could not return the parts without the box. SO make sure you keep your boxes, even for the mirrors at least until the warranty is up. The new switch arrived, plugged it in and now I can enjoy the fruits of my labor.
!!WARNING!! Although this was a simple project for me, the electrical system in your vehicle is very sensitive. If you do not understand how the electrical system works, how to read and understand a diagram and connector views or get frustrated easily then do not attempt this project. One wrong connection or loose wire and you can fry the SJB, various modules, fuses and or relays. If you untwist a twisted set of wires than it will cause the component or system to malfunction. DO NOT PRY CONNECTORS APART!
I advise that you do not pierce the wire insulation for testing. This can break a wire and also breaks the insulation which could result in corrosion or failure down the road. Back pin the wire terminal at the connector.
I do not use wire taps in any of my electrical work. I don’t like them. A tight mechanical connection that is soldered and sealed with double wall shrink tube is water proof, corrosion proof, vibration proof and much stronger than any wire tap.
All connections for mirror power, signal lights and puddle lights were made at or near the SJB.
Connections for POWER FEED to heated mirrors at connector- C213- right side of blower box behind glove box.
Harness covered in convolute where needed to prevent abrasion.
Mirror harness secured to factory harness with cable ties.
This is something that will be with your vehicle for it’s entire life. Do it neat and right the first time and you’ll never have to touch it again.
Items needed:
1 Left Mirror 7L3Z17683AE
1 Right Mirror 7L3Z17682AE
1 Mirror Switch Connector 3U2Z14S411AJC
2 Mirror connectors 3U2Z14S411DLA
1 Power Mirror Switch 7L3Z17B676AA-Non power fold switch (Part depends upon your choice of Power Fold Mirrors or Non power Fold.)
2 Rolls electrical tape. Use the good 3M Super 88
1 Inline Fuse Holder
1 7.5 Amp Fuse
1 Aux Switch
18g GXL wire various colors, 20ft each color
Dual wall shrink tube- Included with factory connectors- Better than any aftermarket shrink tube you can buy.
Small cable ties
Large cable ties
Convolute
Harness clips
Solder
Soldering iron
Dremel with various bits
A lot of patience
The first thing I did was decide where I wanted the PMS(Power Mirror Switch). I don’t like it in the door panel simply because it will get soaked when the window is down. I decided to put mine in the spot where the 4X4 selector switch would be if I had a 4WD truck. I made a mount from thick plexi glass. However if you want yours in the door panel by all means do so. You will need to cut out the mounting hole for the PMS. You can see where it goes by looking at the underside of the door panel.
To make wiring easier remove unused wires from all connectors. Study diagram.
Disconnect your battery.
Next I made the passenger side harness. The wire from pin 1 will need to be long enough to connect to the Heated Mirror power feed at the drivers side cowl panel. Include a wire feed for the MAIN MIRROR POWER to the mirror switch in this harness. It must go from the SJB to the mirror switch. The wires for pins 8,10,11 will leave this harness just as it passes through the door pillar above the SJB. The remaining wires will go to the PMS.
Next I made the Driver Side harness. The wires for pins 8, 10, 11 will exit this harness and travel the length of the cab to the SJB. The wire for pin 1 will exit this harness just after it comes thorough the pillar. The remaining wires will go to the PMS.
Tape the harness the entire length. When you get to the point where wires exit the harness pull those out and continue taping. Go back and tape the exited wires creating another sub harness.
Remember to leave the wires for the PMS, puddle lamps, ground, signal and heater long enough to make the connections.
Carefully feed the wires through the door into the cab.
Dress the appropriate harness along the door following the correct path. (unfortunately I did not get pictures of this). Secure the harness to the door using the harness clips. Tape the clips to the harness and push the clips into the holes. Cover the harness in convolute where it transitions from the face of the door to inside the window well.
Take the wires inside the cab and run them to the appropriate places. After you have done this you can now start securing the PM harness and sub harness to the factory harness with cable ties. Neatness counts, you will be graded on this. Remember to cover with convolute when necessary. If in doubt, cover it. Tape the ends of convolute to the harness so the convolute can not move or abrade the wires. If wares exit the convolute in mid run tape the wires where they will pass through the seam of the convolute to prevent abrasion. Tape around wires and convolute.
Now at the PMS you should have 7 wires or 9 wires depending on how you wired everything. If you notice pins 4 and 5 at the Mirror Connectors are common all motors. You can essentially connect these two wires together and run one wire from each connector to the PMS, that is how I did it. Connect these wires to the PMS connector. Connect the wire from pin 3 to a suitable ground with a ring terminal and fine thread self taping sheet metal screw. I chose the reinforcing panel behind the radio. DO NOT INSTALL THE SWITCH.
Moving over to the passenger side. Locate your two ground wires from pins 8. Crimp a ring terminal on those two wires and secure the terminal to either the main ground just above the SJB or drill a hole in the pillar and attach the ground with a FINE thread self taping sheet metal screw.
The following connections are CRITICAL. You must be very careful not to break connectors or cut wires too short.
BEFORE YOU CUT ANYTHING- CHECK THE WIRING DIAGRAM FOR YOUR VEHICLE SO THAT YOU TAP INTO THE CORRECT WIRES. This is just an example of my vehicle, yours may differ.
Next you will want to connect the puddle lights and signal lights.
The Puddle lights were spliced into the White wire at Connector 238, cavity 15.
The Left signal light was spliced into the BU/GN wire at Connector 2280F cavity 21 at the SJB
The Right signal light was spliced into the YE/VT wire at Connector C2280F cavity 23 at the SJB.
Power to the mirrors was obtained from splicing the BN/RD (Cig lighter feed) wire at Connector C213 and installing an inline fuse holder. Connect the fuse holder to the wire going to the PMS PIN 1, this is important. Do not confuse the PMS pin 1 with the Mirror Connector pin 1. I placed the fuse holder in this location because of easy access and to keep all the fuses in the same location. Make sure the 7.5 amp fuse is installed.
Plug in the mirror switch, reconnect the battery and enjoy your mirrors.
TO CONNECT THE HEATED MIRROR FUNCTION- DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY
The heated mirror relay is controlled by the Climate Control Module. This module sends a TIMED GROUND to the heater relay. HOWEVER if you do not have heated anything you have to modify the wiring OR buy a module. I took apart the module and found that the ORIGINAL module does not have the button or LED soldered onto the control board. I personally do not want to f*^$ with a 200+ dollar module and risk damage. SO.....we are going to add a switch to apply ground to this circuit OR you can obtain a module from a junk yard that has the heated function. You will still have to splice into the power feed for the heaters.
Clip the WH/OG wire, cavity 25 a few inches back from the CCM connector. By leaving a few inches of wire you have the option of reconnecting it at a later date if you get a module with the heated function.
You will solder a wire onto the WH/OG wire coming out of the harness and connect it to one terminal of your AUX switch. Connect the other terminal of the AUX switch to a suitable ground. I chose the same ground screw I used for the PMS ground wire, pin 3.
Now you have to contort yourself to look up into the left hand side top cowl. You will see a sub harness with a big grey connector. CAREFULLY pull the connector away from the cowl panel and unclip the harness from the cowl. Locate the BN/WH wire and clip this at the connector. Solder the two wires from the mirror connectors, Pin 1 to this wire. Tape, convolute and secure as necessary and return the harness and connector to the original location.
Reconnect your battery.
Now when you turn on the AUX switch you will close the ground circuit to the Heated Mirror/Window Def Relay. The FEED/POWER side of the relay is HOT when the IGN SWITCH is in AUX and RUN. So as long as you have the AUX Switch in the on position you will be heating your mirrors if the IGNITION switch is in AUX or RUN position.
The drawback to this method is that the DEF circuit is no longer timed. You do run the risk of over heating your mirrors and or burning out the element. You could get a timed relay board and wire it into the circuit if you wanted.
#2
05-17-2011, 10:44 PM
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05-24-2011, 11:01 PM
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#10
05-28-2011, 08:11 AM
mirror's
2010 F150 XL reg cab ez to do .. four screw's hold your door panel on.. pop your door panel up and have someone hold the panel so that the 3 bolt's on the mirror are showing..remove the nut's and pull out replace with a set of mirror's with defrost on them i didnt do the tow mirror's cuz they look like dumbo goin down the road.. haha next you'll need the heat a/c control module with the defrost feature on it.. now i have seen them with rear defrost and without.. actually i dont know what mine is.. i bought the whole bezel with with the radio face and all...for 50.00 buck's..(bezel had scratches on it) seen just the module on ebay for 90.00.... junkyard's sell them on ebay
chock your wheel's and put the gear shift all the way down... 2 screw's above the instrument panel remove pry panel out remove the next panel to the right go to the panel to the left and pry it up just enough to get to the screws remove radio bezel unplug the wire's.. 4 screw's hold the module in.. replace and put back together.. do this all with the battery disconnected...but as md 150 said there are some without the power feature he wrote an excellent write up on the this... ok i did this and my external temp displayed up on the dash.. stayed at 50 degree's so i knew it didnt work i checked to see if i had the wiring and sadly i dont.. but you might.. i seen a reg cab with the wiring for the temp display with a dummy plug at the sensor... it was all basic.. roll up window's.. no power mirror's new at the ford dealer... NOW this worked for me...cant guarantee this will for you... hope this helps...
chock your wheel's and put the gear shift all the way down... 2 screw's above the instrument panel remove pry panel out remove the next panel to the right go to the panel to the left and pry it up just enough to get to the screws remove radio bezel unplug the wire's.. 4 screw's hold the module in.. replace and put back together.. do this all with the battery disconnected...but as md 150 said there are some without the power feature he wrote an excellent write up on the this... ok i did this and my external temp displayed up on the dash.. stayed at 50 degree's so i knew it didnt work i checked to see if i had the wiring and sadly i dont.. but you might.. i seen a reg cab with the wiring for the temp display with a dummy plug at the sensor... it was all basic.. roll up window's.. no power mirror's new at the ford dealer... NOW this worked for me...cant guarantee this will for you... hope this helps...
#11
05-29-2011, 09:11 PM
#12
07-14-2011, 11:38 AM
#15
09-14-2011, 12:52 PM
