2004 - 2008 F-150

Help on my 2004 Ford F150 5.4v

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Old 09-12-2016, 05:44 PM
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Help on my 2004 Ford F150 5.4v

Hello everyone,

New to the forum. I'm making some repairs and I was seeing if I could get some assistance on what the next step would be. Here's a rough timeline on whats going on:

3/16 Got the Truck with a P0012 code. Would run rough at 45-50 mph but would smooth out.
Occasionally a lean code appeared but disappeared when I used fuel injector cleaner.
4/16 Changed oil/filter to synthetic. Starting getting random codes(misfiring, lean, catalytic converter) Afterwards started idling extremely low, occasionally cutting off when I made a stop.
5/16 Changed the VCT solenoids. Engine dies at stop/slow turn.
9/16 Changed spark plugs/coil boots. Rough idle at 45-50 disappeared. Still dies a stop/slow turn.

Any advice would greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 09-12-2016, 09:32 PM
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Clean the throttle body. Do NOT move the throttle plate if you can help it, that can damage the electronic actuator.

Did you clear the codes, and if so, have any come back?
 
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Old 09-13-2016, 10:24 AM
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I didn't think about the throttle. I'll give it a shot. I would clear them out to see if any new one would show up. The only ones that show up now is a p0358 (which switched from a p0352) and a pending p0012. I'm also gonna replace the fuel filter while I'm at it. Thanks for the word.
 

Last edited by hgil72034; 09-13-2016 at 04:14 PM. Reason: Addition
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:54 AM
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Update on Repairs

Cleaned the throttle and did the relearn procedure. Got it to the point when I changed the oil where it would idle funny but stay running. Hopefully these videos might give a clue. Currently, the only pending codes are P0012 and P2196.


 
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Old 09-20-2016, 08:52 AM
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Have you cleaned the MAF?
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 08:17 AM
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Check all wiring and vacuum lines on top and behind engine. Also double check those coils. Where did you get the coils from? Cheap chinese ones are none to come from the factory bad. It almost sounds like its missing a cylinder. Either that or its not getting the oil it needs in the engine.
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by random155
Check all wiring and vacuum lines on top and behind engine. Also double check those coils. Where did you get the coils from? Cheap chinese ones are none to come from the factory bad. It almost sounds like its missing a cylinder. Either that or its not getting the oil it needs in the engine.
I got them for Advance. I double checked the could when I cleaned the throttle body. I'm think that some how when I changed the oil it may have slipped time. But what would cause it not to get enough oil?
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 11:03 AM
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Would the oil matter? I used quaker state. Should I have used Motorcraft?
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 12:55 PM
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No, the oil didn't cause any problems.
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 03:50 PM
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The oil might matter if you didn't use the recommended weight - which is 5w20. You may want to get a real oil pressure gauge - if the pressure is low it screws up the cam timing system. The factory gauge is an idiot gauge.
 
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Old 09-23-2016, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by glc
The oil might matter if you didn't use the recommended weight - which is 5w20. You may want to get a real oil pressure gauge - if the pressure is low it screws up the cam timing system. The factory gauge is an idiot gauge.
I'll double check but I'm sure I used Quaker StateUltimate Durability 5W-20 Full Synthetic Motor Oil

Forgot to mention when I recorded the videos above I was getting a light white smoke with condensation dripping out the tailpipe.

Edit:

I need to double check to make sure the filter is correct. I dont think its a motorcraft. I think they just gave me an "equivalent(Most likely purolator)" when I was at Advance. I just realized the motorcraft filter they call for isn't red.
 

Last edited by hgil72034; 09-24-2016 at 03:00 PM. Reason: Needed to add detail
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Old 09-25-2016, 12:20 AM
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Update:

Changed the filter to motorcraft(I changed it to a Purolator previously). Runs much smoother but still get the bad idle. It just doesn't do it as often. Still likely a phaser problem though. Here's the updated video:



 
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Old 09-25-2016, 10:49 PM
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Ford f150 5.4 3v Repairs/progress made so far

I'm making some repairs on my 2004 Ford F150 5.4 . Here's a rough timeline on whats going on:

3/16 Got the Truck with a P0012 code. Would run rough at 45-50 mph but would smooth out.
Occasionally a lean code appeared but disappeared when I used fuel injector cleaner.
4/16 Changed oil/filter to synthetic. This is when things hit the fan. Starting getting random codes(misfiring, lean, catalytic converter) Afterwards started idling extremely low, occasionally cutting off when I made a stop.
(realized I used a bad filter-Purolator).

5/16 Changed the VCT solenoids. Engine dies at stop/slow turn.
9/16 Changed spark plugs/coil boots. Rough idle at 45-50 disappeared. Still dies a stop/slow turn.



Forgot to mention when I recorded the videos above I was getting a light white smoke with condensation dripping out the tailpipe.

At this point, I cleaned the throttle body and changed the filter to motorcraft. Runs much smoother but still get the bad idle. It just doesn't do it as often. No smoking out the tailpipe. Here's the updated video:


Also here's a video of what happens when I start it(this happened when I got the truck, during and after repairs made so far):


Come to the conclusion that this is the notorious phaser problem. Looking for some suggestions as far as what I should look at while I got it open. Should I look at changing the chains as well? I'm looking at getting the phasers from either Amazon (Ford) or Freedom racing. Research shows that everything else (especially Dorman) is crap.
 
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Old 09-27-2016, 10:06 PM
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Did a VCT Solenoid test and it idled steady. Ran it for about 20-25 mins with is disconnected. Cut it off and reconnected it and once I started it back up it started idling bad at warm temperature. Not sure if this indicates a bad VCT Solenoid considering that they are basically brand new.
 
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Old 09-28-2016, 02:43 PM
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Did a VCT Solenoid test and it idled steady. Ran it for about 20-25 mins with is disconnected. Cut it off and reconnected it and once I started it back up it started idling bad at warm temperature. Not sure if this indicates a bad VCT Solenoid considering that they are basically brand new.
 


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