Currently have a 3 inch leveling kit on my 04 4x4. Anyway that a 3 inch body lift would allow me to clear 37s?

 

Not without some trimming of sheet metal and rubbing. But they could be stuffed in there using a narrow wheel with the perfect back spacing as well as a not too aggressive tire that's no more than 12.50 wide.

 

That's what I'm looking for. A 37x12.50. I will have a tube front bumper soon. Where else will I come in contact with sheet metal? Also what width and backspacing would be best?

 

The metal on the inner fender behind the tire under that rubber wheel well liner. Especially when going over bumps with the wheel turned any, so any form of flex while off-road will pretty much be gone.

You'll also most likely rub the frame when at full lock.

As far as wheels, something around 8-9" wide. As far as backspacing I can't say an exact number as I don't have any first hand experience with your body style truck but you want whatever tucks in the most while still clearing the control arms and stuff. The further you push the wheel out the worse the rubbing will be.

Also, with 37's don't forget about regearing otherwise you'll be putting a lot of stress on the motor and trans. And 37's in combination with a 3" leveling kit is going to be putting a lot of stress on ball joints and wheel bearings.

 

A 3" level alone is horrible for the suspension components.

 

I'm not worried about wheel travel as this truck is my wife's mall crawler(was mine until my work bought me a new one). I plan on regearing it this winter. I don't mind trimming the fenders some if need be. Is there any fender flares that I could use to help cover up the cuts? Or would they just make it worse?

 

Should be ok. But I'd change those ball joints to be safe, especially the uppers. The angle will be inanely severe and the uca will probably hit the coil when going over speed bumps or the slightest pothole.

However, I know that's not what your asking, now back to your questions. Just offering advice.

 

Well this idea is now on hold. The window motor and regulator just failed today and the 4x4 actuator as well. May just go trade it in. Don't know yet

 

Scratch that... not sure what's wrong the 4x4. The passenger side actuator has a lot more vacuum than the driver side. Not sure what's causing it. Any clues?

 

Most 2004/2006s had an exposed IWE solenoid and 2007/2008s had an updated boxed in style one. The reason being water from the wiper cowl could get into the IWE and water could get into the breather line for the IWEs slowly causing them to become inoperable. Not a bad repair, just an inconvenient repair. If you have an exposed original IWE solenoid I would certainly replace it asap with the updated design.

 

I replaced the solenoid a couple of months ago with one from oreillys. Do you think it could have gone bad already?