Hi, i'm fairly new to owning a vehicle and in my excitement at the thought of doing so I may have thrown out the year I spent researching & went straight to purchasing a lemon . I believe the person who sold it to me may have purposely cleared the engine codes as they weren't around during the test drive we did, which worries me further of course because if someone is being dishonest like that chances are there is a reason. They have denied everything. Being the dumby I am I have very little to prove any of this so I figure hell, it's my first truck - if anything at least I can get one or two learning experiences out of it.

I have a 2005 F-150 XLT (93,000 Miles) with the 5.4L V8 Triton that their seems to be pages of problems with online & I have a few error codes popping up that I don't even know where to begin figuring out how to diagnose the issue.

The error codes are:
P0174 - System too Lean (Bank 2)
P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected
P0316 - Cylinder misfire at startup
P1000 - Guessing this is not a problem, but something to do with the obd2 check I did?
B1352 - Warning sound disabled (not a good sign of the previous owner i'm guessing?)

The codes i'm really worried about are the first 2 I assume but the fact that one is on the opposite bank of Cylinder 3 (if i'm to assume the image below is correct?) makes it seem like there could be a bigger problem ahead.



I've got patience & willingness to learn. On a scale of 1-10 how screwed am I?

In my googling I saw it could be as simple as the MAF sensor needing to be cleaned, or as bad as a vacuum seal issue.

Any or reading resources would be much appreciated.

I'm thinking, Clean MAF Sensor, Check air hoses, Replace Spark Plugs (already ordered a broken spark plug removal tool), & pray to Raptor Jesus that it isn't something worse. Is this a good path to take at the moment?

 

Clean the throttle body as well and change the fuel filter.

 

P1000 has to do with on board self tests not being completed yet. It's an indication that the codes have been reset and it hasn't been driven enough to set all the monitor (computer self tests)

Lean means you have too much air, check for vacuum leaks, etc

Clean throttle body is a good place to start, spray intake cleaner on a rag and wipe the blade and inside the housing. Do not spray directly on the blade, you can cause damage to the deals on the shaft of the blade.


2005 had faulty injectors, that would be on the rich side tho, not lean

 

Thanks guys, will work on those tomorrow since I have the day off. Bought some throttle body cleaner today so it's just a bit of elbow grease & reading from here.

So far i've cleaned the MAF Sensor, replaced the virtually non existent foam gasket on the air filter housing (which seemed to make a night & day difference at low RPMs, might have even fixed the vacuum issue?), & cleared the error codes.

Any other good practice things I need to know about cleaning the throttlebody? I have some microfiber cloths on hand and a few spare toothbrushes somewhere if that'll do.

Also, should I stick to OEM Motorcraft fuel filters or is there better brands/updated designs worth looking for?

 

No better filter designs, really. I like to use Motorcraft, myself. Check the index in the Articles and How To section, there is a write up on cleaning the throttle body.

 

Fuel filter changed with a Motorcraft brand one, throttle body cleaned. Cleared the codes, drove around quite a bit during the day & it seemed to be running way better bbbuuttt - Here's a new set for you:

P0303 - Cylinder 3 Misfire Detected :: Same as before, time for a new spark plug?
P0172 - System too Rich (Bank 1) :: Guessing this is cylinder 3?
P0316 - Engine Misfire Detected on Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) :: Probably cylinder 3 too?

Got a multimeter so i'm going to test the fuel injectors using this guide: http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/for...-injectors-1#1

If it's all A okay with the injectors, replace the spark plug in cylinder 3, clear the codes, & report back?

 

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/sd...229_r07m08.pdf

 

Was just reading this, have they updated the design on the injectors or is it just a "replace at this interval" type deal?

 

Improved design.

 

Have the spark plugs been replaced? If not, they are over due.

 

Thinking it might be the cylinder 3 spark plug. Bought it used so I don't have much servicing information.

Tested the fuel injectors in Bank 1 today with a multimeter & the resistance readings seem all good (1:12.2, 2:12.3, 3:12.4, 4: 12.4). Didn't test the ones in Bank 2 but I might tonight when I get home from work just to be sure.

Few more questions for you guys:

1. Replace all 8 spark plugs for maintenance simplicity or just cylinder 3?
2. Further question, are fuel injectors supposed to rotate a bit - even when the engine is running (o-rings need replacing?)?
3. Motorcraft SP-515, latest spark plug worth using?

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate your input on all this.

Additional edit: I have the broken spark plug removal tool (Lisle (LIS65600) Broken Spark Plug Remover) & socket (OTC 6900).

 

Go ahead and replace all 8 with that mileage. Don't forget to put some nickle (not copper) antiseize on the shanks.
The injectors will turn a little bit, but not much. As long as they're not leaking, the o-rings are fine.
I've read mixed results on aftermarket plugs. Some people have issues with them, and others have none. I stayed with motorcraft on mine and my father's trucks. As long as you use the nickel antiseize, you'll be fine the next time you change them.

It is entirely possible that your main issue is plugs. If the #3 cylinder isn't firing because of a faulty plug, the computer may be trying to adjust the fuel trims, but going to far on bank 2. That's not a certainty, but a possibility. With almost 100k miles, I would think about replacing the O2's in the near future. They get lazy after a while and don't report changes in fuel trims accurately.

 

So what happend? I hope all went well and you are happy with you're truck.

 

on my 98 bank 1 is on passenger side behind the front tire..have to take out mud guard to get to..I have been running that sea foam stuff in my gas system causes it always runs too lean..that just means that injectors need cleaning.

 

on your vacuum issue..check the hoses and connections going into both valve covers..might replace egr valves and invest in new tubing (just did this on my truck) fix cheap things first..buy you a book at oreilly's or auto zone..they don't tell you everything but they tell you a lot..if you know a mechanic or just walk into a shop that has a good rep..ask them questions don't be afraid to ask questions..most people don't mind sharing their experience with you ..