So the clutch went out on the original compressor, so I changed the whole compressor, accumulator and orifice tube since it all came in a kit. Now the damn thing doesn't stay on.
There's no leaks and plenty of charge in the system still.
The low pressure switch on the accumulator was closed when I checked it.
I'm assuming the one on the discharge line is actually a transducer since it has 3 wires on it, so I'm not sure what it's reading or doing.
I could feel the relay open/close while I had someone turn it on and off.
So then I went straight to the plug on the compressor and could not get any voltage reading with my meter.

When it does happen to run and I have gauges on it, the low side runs right around 30 psi which is ideal. I don't have a high side adapter so I'm not sure what that pressure is.

Every once in a while it will kick on run for a few minutes then it kicks out. That makes me think there is something going on with that discharge transducer but I don't know how to check it our bypass it.
Any way to do that? Or anything else I should check or look into? please HELP!!! I really don't want to go to a shop after doing all this work for them to plug in and say something stupid and charge 100 bucks.

 

You do need to take it to a shop. The system needs to be evacuated, compressor oil needs to be introduced unless the compressor came preoiled, and a weighed amount of refrigerant needs to be charged in.

 

At a minimum, you need to put a gauge on the discharge too to make sure what the high side is doing. I assume you evacuated the system before charging.

 

I did evacuate the system and the compressor was pre-filled with oil. Yea, I agree I need to get a high side adapter so I can check the discharge pressure.

 

Finally got a discharge line adapter, hooked and the gauges and pressures were equalized at about 90 psi with ambient air in the low 80's, turn everything on and still nothing. Borrowed a friends code reader, which apparently has a screwed up screen because it didn't display the top 3-4 lines, but at one point it displays an "A/C Demand Out of Self Test Range". Any idea what that means?

 

How much refrigerant was put into the system? Was it charged to specifications?

You're going to need a scan tool that you can read. Without it, you cannot know what the signals are that control the system.

Yes, it's a pressure transducer. It sends a signal to the PCM that's proportional to the pressure it senses.

This is a PCM-controlled system. There are certain PCM and Instrument cluster DTCs that can inhibit AC compressor operation by design and those must be ruled out before addressing the AC system. That's why you need the scanner to be working.

After checking for DTCs, the next to do is to check the transducer's output and see if it's reading the same pressure as the manual gauge.

That reading is normal for that ambient temp for a system that isn't operating. When the compressor engages, the low side should drop and the high side is supposed to rise.

To proceed, you need to tell us if this has a manual or an automatic climate control.

 

Yea, I put 3 cans (36 ounces) in initially, and the truck lists 2.31 pounds which is about 37 ounces. After having these issues i added another 1-2 ounces to see this it was that temper-mental, but I'm confident its not over charged by more than 1-2 ounces.

It does have auto climate control.