2006 Harley missing and bogging on hard acceleration
#16
12-30-2015, 09:06 AM
Thanks all for the advice. Just very frustrated at this point. Sorry. The truck is doing the same thing regarding bogging and misfiring with the new COP's as the stock ones. I still have all my old COP's so if that is an issue I can always go back to them. I've heard many say the FPCM can cause issue. I'm going to check it out tomorrow, and go through my fuses and wiring harnesses. I have also read the fuel injectors can cause this issue, and flood the CATS which is what the dealer thought it was. Why would I replace the CATS before determining the fuel injectors are all good. Would that just fry a new CAT if an injector was still bad?
It sounds as tho you have a ground issue when you have gound problems the alternater has to basically run the truck with out regulation of battery and will over load the alternater causing them to go bad as well asother sensors and electronic failure.... i could be worng....
#17
01-20-2017, 08:01 AM
Traveling back to Houston today after our round of annual meetings this week up in Nashville. It will be good to get back to normalcy after copious amounts of shop talk and frivolity!
Our "fun day" this week was a pretty good one -- skeet shooting in the morning and go cart racing in the afternoon!
Our "fun day" this week was a pretty good one -- skeet shooting in the morning and go cart racing in the afternoon!
#18
05-26-2017, 11:52 PM
Boggy engine.
My Dilema:
I need you guys help in a bad way. So let me begin by what I have been through and done up to this point. I have a 2006 Ford F150 Harley Davidson 5.4 3V with 80K miles.
A while ago my truck was missing some under FOT, so I bought a Gryphon thinking it would help my situation or atleast pull codes to identify issues. After I installed the tuner issues got worse, so I took it to my local Ford dealer. When starting the truck the speedo and tach needles would shake then go to normal, and the radio would go back to defult each start. The day I took it in the tranny started acting weird so I drove straight there and dropped it off. Needless to say they recommended to replace the PCM first thinking the tuner caused it, which I doubted. They replaced the PCM and then said the tranny needed a rebuild. So they did both tranny and PCM after 6 weeks in the shop. I got the truck back 5K later and it ran worse that when I dropped it off. They said the Cats were flooded. I decided that I would change the plugs and coil packs myself. Fun job 4 broke, so I had to extract them. Installed new Motorcraft one piece plugs with seize grease on them with Excel super coils, and used electric grease on the connections. The plugs and the coils were in bad shape, so I had no problem replacing both at 80 K. I had to jump it to get it started. Cranked right up off the jump. I went for a test drive and got a check charging system light. Tested the Alternator and it was bad, so I replaced it with a Duralast gold alternator. I still get the shaking speedo needles at start with the radio going to default. I took it out on the highway and the truck still boggs and misses on the highway when FOT. It seems like it wants to take off but it just boggs down and misses some. I have been up and down with this issue for a couple months now and am at a loss on where to go. The tuner has NOT been installed after all this work.
The things I am thinking left are the fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel filter. I also think there is still an electrical issue obviously due to the issues at start up. I am at about 6K in and I’m tired off throwing parts at it, even though some where needed anyway. What else should I check or look for??? Please help.
Parts replaced so far:
Tranny rebuilt
New PCM that dealer flashed
New Excel Super Coils
New Motorcraft SP-515 one piece plugs
New Duralast Gold Alternator
Duralast Gold battery one year old
Any help would be greatly appreciated from the knowledge base of this forum.
Modifications
S&B Cold Air Intake
Excel Super coils
Leveling kit
I need you guys help in a bad way. So let me begin by what I have been through and done up to this point. I have a 2006 Ford F150 Harley Davidson 5.4 3V with 80K miles.
A while ago my truck was missing some under FOT, so I bought a Gryphon thinking it would help my situation or atleast pull codes to identify issues. After I installed the tuner issues got worse, so I took it to my local Ford dealer. When starting the truck the speedo and tach needles would shake then go to normal, and the radio would go back to defult each start. The day I took it in the tranny started acting weird so I drove straight there and dropped it off. Needless to say they recommended to replace the PCM first thinking the tuner caused it, which I doubted. They replaced the PCM and then said the tranny needed a rebuild. So they did both tranny and PCM after 6 weeks in the shop. I got the truck back 5K later and it ran worse that when I dropped it off. They said the Cats were flooded. I decided that I would change the plugs and coil packs myself. Fun job 4 broke, so I had to extract them. Installed new Motorcraft one piece plugs with seize grease on them with Excel super coils, and used electric grease on the connections. The plugs and the coils were in bad shape, so I had no problem replacing both at 80 K. I had to jump it to get it started. Cranked right up off the jump. I went for a test drive and got a check charging system light. Tested the Alternator and it was bad, so I replaced it with a Duralast gold alternator. I still get the shaking speedo needles at start with the radio going to default. I took it out on the highway and the truck still boggs and misses on the highway when FOT. It seems like it wants to take off but it just boggs down and misses some. I have been up and down with this issue for a couple months now and am at a loss on where to go. The tuner has NOT been installed after all this work.
The things I am thinking left are the fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel filter. I also think there is still an electrical issue obviously due to the issues at start up. I am at about 6K in and I’m tired off throwing parts at it, even though some where needed anyway. What else should I check or look for??? Please help.
Parts replaced so far:
Tranny rebuilt
New PCM that dealer flashed
New Excel Super Coils
New Motorcraft SP-515 one piece plugs
New Duralast Gold Alternator
Duralast Gold battery one year old
Any help would be greatly appreciated from the knowledge base of this forum.
Modifications
S&B Cold Air Intake
Excel Super coils
Leveling kit
#19
07-19-2017, 06:16 PM
For what its worth, on an old thread
I have an 08 mark lt with 70k and an 08 f150 Harley with 78k. they both have had intermittent surging and idle acceleration problems.
the Lincoln I replaced everything cuz I wanted a new truck and a new truck I got on my own terms but most influential parts were fuel pump control module, clean grounds, check your harness above your fuel tank and on the side of the frame rail, cops and plugs, ticking = updated cam phazers.
Harley f150, (was a flood soooo) new plugs, ohm tested coils but they were good, FUEL PUMP CONTROL MODULE, o2 sensor(upstream) evap solenoid valve. also this truck is 500hp+ supercharged.
all that said, you need to invest in a good scanner to show you viable (SES light on or not) codes cuz could be pending or non threatening codes the truck wont throw cel/ses and your simply guessing. I'm not sure whats worse, a dealer replacing anything you say yes to make you happy or in my case, not willing to even look at it without cel on. these trucks don't like to display cel neither of mine have.
I suggest stopping into advance auto after ohm testing all your coils and noting the resistance and use your same multimeter to ohm test a new motorcraft one there. it may not be a warm test but at least it gives you an idea. also to whomever posted earlier years ago in the thread, sounds like they had a bad crankshaft position sensor.
the Lincoln I replaced everything cuz I wanted a new truck and a new truck I got on my own terms but most influential parts were fuel pump control module, clean grounds, check your harness above your fuel tank and on the side of the frame rail, cops and plugs, ticking = updated cam phazers.
Harley f150, (was a flood soooo) new plugs, ohm tested coils but they were good, FUEL PUMP CONTROL MODULE, o2 sensor(upstream) evap solenoid valve. also this truck is 500hp+ supercharged.
all that said, you need to invest in a good scanner to show you viable (SES light on or not) codes cuz could be pending or non threatening codes the truck wont throw cel/ses and your simply guessing. I'm not sure whats worse, a dealer replacing anything you say yes to make you happy or in my case, not willing to even look at it without cel on. these trucks don't like to display cel neither of mine have.
I suggest stopping into advance auto after ohm testing all your coils and noting the resistance and use your same multimeter to ohm test a new motorcraft one there. it may not be a warm test but at least it gives you an idea. also to whomever posted earlier years ago in the thread, sounds like they had a bad crankshaft position sensor.
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#20
07-19-2017, 06:23 PM
also just to add...
improvements you should do, use f350 rear door rubber stoppers will stop chatter from doors over bumps on crewcab(though doesn't sound like the doors) cuz they are solid not hollow, for the naturally aspirated guys, get a tuner like edge and use the tow tune(totally different truck with shiftpoints) and clear your tranny learn diagnostics by using the gas pedal method (key on slow push down fast let off like 3 times or something like that)
#21
07-19-2017, 07:14 PM
Looks like I'm gonna have to go all Sherlock Holmes on some electrical wiring and figure out exactly where the problem is. If I'm lucky, it's just some dirty connections, but I'm not gonna hold my breath for that.
#22
07-19-2017, 07:34 PM
re: not sure who
its not typical for our cam sensors to go bad but it can happen. it is however normal for it to reappear after start as the pcm rescans for trouble codes once started and if it keeps coming back you should replace sensor as cheap as they are just to be safe. most scanners will show you stored faults and pending. more than likely if its a sure fire fault even after you clear it will show under pending or continuous faults. I think, and this is my opinion, that ford spent a lot of r&d into making the frame and body built "ford tough" but they lack in drivetrain engineering. thus starts the age old conversation ford vs chevy. Chevy = strong reliable motors, ford = strong chassis long lasting. moral to the story is correctly diagnose, and be proactive against normal well known weak spots. On a positive note, they may give trouble but they typical wont quit and leave you stranded. by the way, the saleen supercharger is holy wow. we all know the 5.4 has great torque but is like driving a dump truck, this SC makes it a whole different truck, thus the reason I sold my baby(mark lt) and kept the harley
#23
07-19-2017, 07:51 PM
#25
07-31-2017, 11:07 PM
#27
09-28-2017, 09:25 AM
#29
11-30-2017, 01:44 AM
I need some help in a bad way..I have a 2011 F150 4x4, has 108 thousand miles on it, has ran great until the last month or so, my issue is it will go into limp mode and not want to shift upon acceleration, the first time this happened i was going up a hill on a 4 lane road and was in the passing lane and all of a sudden it lost power the dash lights went blank and it wouldnt go when pushing on the gas petal i got pulled over and had my dad come help me he unhooked the battery and let it set a few minutes and then it fired up and took off with no further issues. It has happened several times since then, it mostly happens now when first taking off it wont shift out of first or second gear without either unhooking the battery and letting it set a few minutes, we have taken it for a couple shops and they cant figure out what is causing it because it dont happen all the time and it never throws any codes, we took it to a ford dealership and they ran tests and said it was a thermostat, had a new one put on, same problems, did some research online and thought it may be the throttle body so we replaced that, nope same problems. Has anyone else had something like this happen or know what could be causing this, its beginning to get very frustrating and very expensive replacing parts that dont fix the issue.
#30
12-29-2017, 05:16 PM
