VCT replacement through the valve cover.. I don't think so!
#1
VCT replacement through the valve cover.. I don't think so!
I know there is a nice write up here showing how you can pry the seal off (nope) and access the screw.. not on my truck.
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/VCT_Solenoid.html
There is no flat lip on the seal so you have to dig it out = damage.
The hole in the VC is a lot smaller than the one in that picture, so there is no way to get a tool down there to undue the T27/4mm bolt on the end of the VCT. Guess its time to rip off the valve covers.. lovely.
Note: My truck's original engine (it was an early 04') had rod knock and was replaced at 65K miles. I assumed the valve covers were the stock ones as they appeared to be 85K miles ago when that happened. Point is, somewhere along there was a running change to the VCT access hole and on some trucks.. you can't get there from here.
http://www.howstuffinmycarworks.com/VCT_Solenoid.html
There is no flat lip on the seal so you have to dig it out = damage.
The hole in the VC is a lot smaller than the one in that picture, so there is no way to get a tool down there to undue the T27/4mm bolt on the end of the VCT. Guess its time to rip off the valve covers.. lovely.
Note: My truck's original engine (it was an early 04') had rod knock and was replaced at 65K miles. I assumed the valve covers were the stock ones as they appeared to be 85K miles ago when that happened. Point is, somewhere along there was a running change to the VCT access hole and on some trucks.. you can't get there from here.
#2
I just changed out the drivers side VCT last sunday. Went smooth but like you pointed out the seal did not come off easily. In fact ended up replacing it due to how much damage. Access to the screw was very tight on mine aswell so I had to try several combos of drivers until I found one skinny enough to fit through the cover.
#3
I'm impressed! See that's why I post this stuff up, to challenge myself when I think its impossible! Nice job. I ended up removing all the valvecover bolts and lifting it up 3-4 inches to get the required clearance. Didn't bother to get the valvecover all the way off. Still required a lot of effort for the passenger side but oh well.
What were the symptoms and did the VCT swap fix your problem? It didn't for me, I'm about to post another thread asking for help on that topic.
What were the symptoms and did the VCT swap fix your problem? It didn't for me, I'm about to post another thread asking for help on that topic.
#4
#5
I just started on my 2008 f150. Definitely not able to do it without removing valve cover. First getting the seal out- more difficult- there is a thin lip of metal to hold the seal in place- part of mine is now missing. Probably wont hurt anything but not what I like to do. Then I used a long T25 torx "L" shaped tool (like an allen wrench). Got the bolt loose but unable to get the bolt up past the opening (about 1/2 the bolt is visible) the rest of bolt is under valve cover plus the bracket. Can't see it being possible. Now taking cover off.
#7
vct solenoid replacement update
I did manage to replace solenoid on passenger side of vehicle by lifting valve cover off at front end ( otherwise supposed to take A/C apart) left gasket in place and hoping won't leak, drivers side quite easy just take off P/S and mount as well as take off electrical (incl. coil packs) and crankcase vent and oil dipstick bolt and move brake vacuum line as wiggling out cover. Also changed sparkplugs- new design compared to "2 Piece" in older triton engines- no trouble with that. A lot easier to take seal out on bench for VCT solenoid as well.
Trending Topics
#8
I did manage to replace solenoid on passenger side of vehicle by lifting valve cover off at front end ( otherwise supposed to take A/C apart) left gasket in place and hoping won't leak, drivers side quite easy just take off P/S and mount as well as take off electrical (incl. coil packs) and crankcase vent and oil dipstick bolt and move brake vacuum line as wiggling out cover. Also changed sparkplugs- new design compared to "2 Piece" in older triton engines- no trouble with that. A lot easier to take seal out on bench for VCT solenoid as well.
The following users liked this post:
#9
Vct
No it did not leak, everything worked out for me. I did take the inner fender liner to get at some bolts and kept it off for a bit to make sure. Got lucky maybe??? Hope it goes well for you. I was really careful and had everything loose before lifting the cover and swapping the solenoid and seal.
#10
#11
VCT solwnoid
Well good for you , maybe I didn't push/pull/wiggle it hard enough. I didn't want to break anything. It didn't feel like it had enough space. I wonder if there's a difference or not. As long as it works it's all good.
So, I replaced my VCT solenoid and cam phasers today. It took me about 5 hours. I was able to get my pass valve cover off without messing with the A/C lines. I had to maneuver it a bit to get it out, but not bad. For reference, I have an 09 F150 lariat with 5.4L.
Thanks for the help!!
Thanks for the help!!
#13
VCT Solenoids
Can somebody please help me? I'm in the process of changing my VCT solenoid and I cannot get the solenoid inside the valve cover with the screw that's on the side. Could I just break the screw off and leave it to the seal to hold the solenoid in place ? or is there an easier way? please help, thank you.
#14
#15
Aside from reviving a post from 2.5 years ago, how often do you anticipate replacing VCTs? It's typically replace it once and done for the life of the engine in most cases. I wouldn't be changing out valve covers in anticipation of that particular repair.