I sent mine and my buddies to this place. $175.00 it was repaired. There is a bad circuit in the cluster. If anyone has a flashing dome light they can take care of that too. http://www.fordclusters.com/

 

I had the same problem with my 07 XLT.. I cleaned all the ground wires that connect to the firewall and inner fenders . The light went out and has not come back on.

 

I have a 2006 F-150 with 135,000 mi. and I had this exact same problem. Just like everyone else's cases I tried to check the switch and ruled that out. Soon afterward I had opened and shut my door while the truck was running and the light went out. I did some research and found this thread. I shopped around and found the prices of dashes that would fit and I wasn't thrilled. I also found a YouTube video showing how to pull the dash apart and replace lights which didn't seem to difficult. My plan was to either repair the board where it may have shorted or cover the light. I pulled it apart and after retrieving the dash started pulling it apart. I definitely felt like I was over invested. I ended up unscrewing the board off the back opened up the plastic that covers the physical needles and separated the two by pulling off all the gauges. I then had access to the light and found it wasn't an incandescent like many of them but instead was a small led light. I ended up going to town with some duct tape and somehow put it all together again. It just finished inspection. Not exactly proud if what I had to do but It worked.

 

After messing with mine for a year or two shimming or tapping on stuff I finally got tired of messing with it. Plus my dome light was starting act up.

Anyways I pulled the cluster out Monday. Shipped it Brian's Speedometer Shop in Muldrow, OK. I got it back on Wednesday!! Works great! Cost me $100 plus $12 to UPS. They paid the return shipping.

One reason I decided to get it fixed was after looking at a schematic just about every accessory on the truck goes thru the cluster. With the cluster out you'll have no radio, no power windows, no air conditioning, dome lights or most of the other interior lights.

A cluster would have cost me almost $500 locally, over $300 from Tasca. Those would have to be programmed and have the odometer set. I don't know how much that costs but I doubt my dealer would do it so I would have the expense of traveling somewhere.

I'd be happier had it not messed up but it's the first real problem I've had in over 198,360 miles

 

So by accident I figured out that if your brake light stays on most of the time, your dome light comes on sporadically and by hitting the top of your dash (Fonze moment here) cause the dome light to go out then definitely it's a cluster problem. By the way when I wiggle the harness to cluster connector (the one on the left) it causes the brake, dome, and air bag lights to go off and on. So what I tried was pull each and every wire pin connector and tighten the connection but unfortunately this did not fix it. Figure the problem must be with the male connector to cluster connection. Very annoying problem to be driving at night and have the dome light come on at full brightness. "Safety Hazzard" I say. Hope this helps people identify there issue.

 

By the way my truck is a Ford F150 2006 XLT TRITON 4.6L.

 

That is exactly how mine acted. I took the connector completely apart and checked every pin. I took the cluster apart and checked every connection to the board. I looked the board over thoroughly and couldn't see a problem.
I'm assuming there is a cold solder problem that is common to a great many of these clusters as several repair places have a predetermined price for repair.
I was able to fix mine by shimming the end of the board where the left connector attaches. Problem would stay away sometimes for months but generally would return when the seasons change and we experienced a large temp swing.
Anyways I just popped my cluster out on a Monday and it was returned to me the following Wednesday.
The only thing you might want to be careful of is everyone will tell you that you can drive the truck with the cluster out. While technically true almost none of the accessories work. When you reinstall it you may have a check engine light. Neither was a big issue for me. I have a scanner to clear the codes.
Overall I'm very happy and after speaking with others I'm confident the repair is permanent.

 

I've been lucky that my light problem has been the e-brake sticking after the very rare times using it but it is very annoying seeing that light on.

 

it won't solve the brake light issues, but I know if you turn the dome override switch to the all the way off position the interior lights won't flash.....surprising to me that my e brake light has stayed on for 2 years now and hasn't blown out lol

 

I leased my truck on the July 3rd. It is now the 19th. So far it has been in the shop for 8 days getting things fixed (that the leasing company should have found) ....for free (to me at least).

So now, they've already had the dash out in order to change the a/c module and the heater core. The brake light being on was attributed to a stuck e-brake cable, which they fixed.

Not 24 hours after picking it up from the shop, the red brake line came back on. It flickers and just stays on sometimes. Reading all your posts makes me think they are going to have to pull the dash again.

I am driving a 2006 5.4L Triton XL, with 160,000 miles on it.

But the good thing on my end is that it has new leaf springs, shocks, a/c, heater core, cat back exhaust, and brakes. All covered under warranty.

 

It's a nuisance on my 2005 STX. It's just maddening to have to explain why the light stays on, but it is not critical -- as our every-other-year inspection (for emmissions only) does not require the light be working.

Still, I intend to fix mine. There's a local guy who advertises in Craigslist who will come to you and do the repair. Takes about 30 minutes and costs $150. Better than a 500-dollar cluster replacement!

 

My 08 STX brake light started a couple years ago flashing on/off. Then it would stay on for a few days then go off. Mow it mainly stays on all the time. I had some stuff done at the dealer and I told them to check it out. The guy drove it around and I saw him sitting in the truck with a real confused look on his face. I said you get that light fixed? He says..well it was off now its on. I swear we had it off. He told me there were no mechanical problems and he'd put a piece of electrical tape over the light and roll with it. I just deal with it. Didn't want tape on my cluster. VERY ANNOYING. Where is this switch to check? Under foot pedal below e brake?

 

I just bought my first F150, used 2006 4X4.
The brake warning light is on all the time but occasionally it would turn off for a little while when moving.
I downloaded the schematics for the warning light and the only two things it could be were the two wire switch at the E-brake (top rear of the mechanism) and the 3 wire level sensor (on the master cylinder reservoir).
I removed the gauge hood this morning to reveal the cluster after I had inspected the two switches. The top left cluster plug wires #2 and #3 for the fluid level sensor. As soon as I touched the connector the light went out. Wiggled it and it would go on/off exactly as I moved it. I thought it was a broken solder joint so I removed the cluster and inspected it with an ohmmeter and magnifying glass. No problems were found.
I then reinstalled the cluster and reconnected everything. Same thing, on/off as I wiggle it. I connected and reconnected the top left plug about 20 times and now when I wiggle it, it won't come on. I seem to have solved this issue by semi cleaning the pins with the connect/reconnect system. A little dielectric grease and I'm off to enjoy my new toy.

 

Ford's fix is to replace the instrument cluster.

Sounds like you are saying there is corrosion of the M/C sensor wiring on the circuit board or in a plug? What color are the wires involved?

There's a guy around here (Denver) who will come to you and fix it for $150, but free is even better.

 

The wires at the master cylinder are;
Pin 1 = Ground - BK
Pin 2 = Level switch signal return - TN-LG
Pin 3 = Level switch signal - DG-YE

The same wires at the cluster are (in the 32 pin connector);
Pin 2 = Level switch signal - DG-YE
Pin 3 = Level switch signal return - TN-LG
Pin 17 = Ground - BK