04' Lariat: Won't crank/start
#1
04' Lariat: Won't crank/start
2004 F-150 Lariat w/ Triton 5.4L 2WD
When I turn the key to start, the starter/solenoid does nothing. All of my interior lights work, dash lights, headlights work, interior lamps work and don't even dim. Battery is 3 mos old and tests good. Tried jump just in case, same thing. Starter/solenoid replaced yesterday and test fine. WORKS WITH REMOTE STARTER SWITCH.
I checked most of the interior fuse box fuses and relays that seemed to be associated with this issue and all look good. When I turn key to the "on" position I get the engine light, ABS and battery lights on the dash, no security or anti-theft lights are on or flashing. Also checked some of the easy to get to inline fuses and fuseable links that come off the positive battery terminal.
When turn to "start position" I hear one click coming from interior fuse box, nothing from engine and no other sounds.
Now I'm stuck! What else can I try?
When I turn the key to start, the starter/solenoid does nothing. All of my interior lights work, dash lights, headlights work, interior lamps work and don't even dim. Battery is 3 mos old and tests good. Tried jump just in case, same thing. Starter/solenoid replaced yesterday and test fine. WORKS WITH REMOTE STARTER SWITCH.
I checked most of the interior fuse box fuses and relays that seemed to be associated with this issue and all look good. When I turn key to the "on" position I get the engine light, ABS and battery lights on the dash, no security or anti-theft lights are on or flashing. Also checked some of the easy to get to inline fuses and fuseable links that come off the positive battery terminal.
When turn to "start position" I hear one click coming from interior fuse box, nothing from engine and no other sounds.
Now I'm stuck! What else can I try?
#2
There is a yellow/blue (might be yellow /green) wire with a piece that looks like it is a in line fuse right next to the battery. When mine wouldnt start I had pulled it apart and put it back together and it started, must have been corroded
Here is a pic
If you that doesn't fix it try these
Check voltage at starter
Check voltage at starter on signal wire when key turned to start
The remote starter you have should have cut the starter wire at the ignition switch and spliced into it, try to connect the wire back together bypassing the alarm
Here is a pic
If you that doesn't fix it try these
Check voltage at starter
Check voltage at starter on signal wire when key turned to start
The remote starter you have should have cut the starter wire at the ignition switch and spliced into it, try to connect the wire back together bypassing the alarm
#3
Thanks for the quick reply azmidget91.
I know the wires your talking about. After installing the new starter (prob not necessary now but what the heck) I did take that apart and put it back together but didn't clean it or blow it out at all.
Also, the remoter starter switch is a Sunpro with just the clamps that attach to the solenoid terminals so didn't need to cut any wires.
Also, I never actually started the engine with it, just wanted to make sure the starter I installed was working, which it was.
At work now but headin' home at lunch to try these suggestions. I'll let you know.
Thanks again
I know the wires your talking about. After installing the new starter (prob not necessary now but what the heck) I did take that apart and put it back together but didn't clean it or blow it out at all.
Also, the remoter starter switch is a Sunpro with just the clamps that attach to the solenoid terminals so didn't need to cut any wires.
Also, I never actually started the engine with it, just wanted to make sure the starter I installed was working, which it was.
At work now but headin' home at lunch to try these suggestions. I'll let you know.
Thanks again
#4
Oh ok now I know what you mean, have one of those, but never heard anyone use it on a new vehicle so didn't put 2 and 2 together.
So yeah, check voltage at the starter, the bigger cable should be 12.x at all times smaller wire should be 12.x when key is turned to start. But im sure you already knew that. Also try turning your headlights on, then try to crank it and see if the head lights turn off. That will tell you if your ecu is seeing the start signal or not.
So yeah, check voltage at the starter, the bigger cable should be 12.x at all times smaller wire should be 12.x when key is turned to start. But im sure you already knew that. Also try turning your headlights on, then try to crank it and see if the head lights turn off. That will tell you if your ecu is seeing the start signal or not.
#5
Oh ok now I know what you mean, have one of those, but never heard anyone use it on a new vehicle so didn't put 2 and 2 together.
So yeah, check voltage at the starter, the bigger cable should be 12.x at all times smaller wire should be 12.x when key is turned to start. But im sure you already knew that. Also try turning your headlights on, then try to crank it and see if the head lights turn off. That will tell you if your ecu is seeing the start signal or not.
So yeah, check voltage at the starter, the bigger cable should be 12.x at all times smaller wire should be 12.x when key is turned to start. But im sure you already knew that. Also try turning your headlights on, then try to crank it and see if the head lights turn off. That will tell you if your ecu is seeing the start signal or not.
#6
#7
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#8
Dang....sure wish I found that when I was diagnosing my problem...
Same part number just says its for a mountaineer which the tsb says is also effected
http://www.amazon.com/Harness-Assemb.../dp/B000O0V6MW
Same part number just says its for a mountaineer which the tsb says is also effected
http://www.amazon.com/Harness-Assemb.../dp/B000O0V6MW
#9
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Location: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
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Dang....sure wish I found that when I was diagnosing my problem...
Same part number just says its for a mountaineer which the tsb says is also effected
http://www.amazon.com/Harness-Assemb.../dp/B000O0V6MW
Same part number just says its for a mountaineer which the tsb says is also effected
http://www.amazon.com/Harness-Assemb.../dp/B000O0V6MW
#10
Sure would like to see a pic of this replacement harness what exactly it replaces the TSB says
"TERMINAL KIT ONLY SERVICES THE STARTER RELAY TO STARTER MOTOR CIRCUIT. THE KIT DOES NOT SERVICE STARTER MOTOR BATTERY POWER CIRCUIT."
So sounds like just that yellow wire but how much of it? It is loomed together with the battery cable going to the starter and then goes through the firewall to the fuse box. I am assuming just between the starter and that connector
"TERMINAL KIT ONLY SERVICES THE STARTER RELAY TO STARTER MOTOR CIRCUIT. THE KIT DOES NOT SERVICE STARTER MOTOR BATTERY POWER CIRCUIT."
So sounds like just that yellow wire but how much of it? It is loomed together with the battery cable going to the starter and then goes through the firewall to the fuse box. I am assuming just between the starter and that connector
#11
After multiple attempts last night, could not get it to turn-over again. Crazy weird! Why would it actually turn over and start one minute, then not anymore? Anyhow, it's back to doing just what it was before, a single click down by the interior fuse box.
I 'm calling the dealership today to see what it will take to get that connector part thingy. I'll let you know.
Thanks for the suggestions.
I 'm calling the dealership today to see what it will take to get that connector part thingy. I'll let you know.
Thanks for the suggestions.
#12
Called dealership to price the connector. They only sell it as "Complete Wiring Assembly" for $93 and it includes all cables that connect to positive and negative battery terminals and includes the connector in question. If your curious, they want $280 to install if for you.
The service tech did have me try putting it in neutral then trying to start it but that did not work either. I'm going to try and bypass the connector and see if that does anything.
More to come.
The service tech did have me try putting it in neutral then trying to start it but that did not work either. I'm going to try and bypass the connector and see if that does anything.
More to come.
#13
Print this TSB out and take it to them. It shows a part number (6U2Z-14S411-NA) and is only that yellow wire not the battery cable. Also It shows .4 hours to replace it.
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/bk...00_starter.pdf
http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/bk...00_starter.pdf
#14
Also Tasca ford has the part listed as $14 retail and $9 with their discount. and at .4 hours of labor even if they charged $100 an hour should be less than $50
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocato...&siteid=213668
That TSB is your tool to get them to do the correct work and hopefully a decent price
http://www.tascaparts.com/partlocato...&siteid=213668
That TSB is your tool to get them to do the correct work and hopefully a decent price
#15
yellow green wire
There is a yellow/blue (might be yellow /green) wire with a piece that looks like it is a in line fuse right next to the battery. When mine wouldnt start I had pulled it apart and put it back together and it started, must have been corroded
Here is a pic
If you that doesn't fix it try these
Check voltage at starter
Check voltage at starter on signal wire when key turned to start
The remote starter you have should have cut the starter wire at the ignition switch and spliced into it, try to connect the wire back together bypassing the alarm
Here is a pic
If you that doesn't fix it try these
Check voltage at starter
Check voltage at starter on signal wire when key turned to start
The remote starter you have should have cut the starter wire at the ignition switch and spliced into it, try to connect the wire back together bypassing the alarm