Can't Start Truck After Fuel Filter Replacement
#1
Can't Start Truck After Fuel Filter Replacement
I replaced the fuel filter on my 2005 F150 4.6L and my truck started fine after I replaced the filter. I let it sit for a couple of days and now it won't start. When I depressurized the fuel system, I disconnected the safety shutoff switch and started the engine until it died on me. Then I replaced the fuel filter and reconnected the fuel saftey shut off (red cap with plunger). I pushed the reset button and truck started fine.
Now after a couple of days it won't start. I got a buzzing noise in the fuse box. Pushed the fuel safety switch reset and still buzzed. I thought I narrowed it down to the PCM relay. I pulled the PCM relay buzzing stopped and replaced with a new one and now - nothing not even buzzing noise. I have power to the lights and I have good voltage at the battery. Turned the key and voltage stays the same at the battery. I turned the key and the inside lights and clock shut off and the engine doesn't crank at all. Not sure what else to check any ideas?
Now after a couple of days it won't start. I got a buzzing noise in the fuse box. Pushed the fuel safety switch reset and still buzzed. I thought I narrowed it down to the PCM relay. I pulled the PCM relay buzzing stopped and replaced with a new one and now - nothing not even buzzing noise. I have power to the lights and I have good voltage at the battery. Turned the key and voltage stays the same at the battery. I turned the key and the inside lights and clock shut off and the engine doesn't crank at all. Not sure what else to check any ideas?
#2
#3
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Posts: 10,697
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
#4
#5
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: In the fast lane from LA to Tokyo...
Posts: 10,697
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
14 Posts
I replaced the fuel filter on my 2005 F150 4.6L and my truck started fine after I replaced the filter. I let it sit for a couple of days and now it won't start. When I depressurized the fuel system, I disconnected the safety shutoff switch and started the engine until it died on me. Then I replaced the fuel filter and reconnected the fuel saftey shut off (red cap with plunger). I pushed the reset button and truck started fine.
Now after a couple of days it won't start. I got a buzzing noise in the fuse box. Pushed the fuel safety switch reset and still buzzed. I thought I narrowed it down to the PCM relay. I pulled the PCM relay buzzing stopped and replaced with a new one and now - nothing not even buzzing noise. I have power to the lights and I have good voltage at the battery. Turned the key and voltage stays the same at the battery. I turned the key and the inside lights and clock shut off and the engine doesn't crank at all. Not sure what else to check any ideas?
Now after a couple of days it won't start. I got a buzzing noise in the fuse box. Pushed the fuel safety switch reset and still buzzed. I thought I narrowed it down to the PCM relay. I pulled the PCM relay buzzing stopped and replaced with a new one and now - nothing not even buzzing noise. I have power to the lights and I have good voltage at the battery. Turned the key and voltage stays the same at the battery. I turned the key and the inside lights and clock shut off and the engine doesn't crank at all. Not sure what else to check any ideas?
Last edited by 88racing; 10-06-2011 at 07:42 PM.
#6
I'll try and get the battery checked but I don't think that is the problem - I put a fresh charge on it a week ago. I am not getting any noises at the fuse box anymore. I was getting a buzzing noise before I pulled the PCM relay (R203)...when I pulled the buzzing stopped. Then I put another relay in...no more buzzing. I am thinking it may have something to do with the alarm system. When I put the key in the ignition, the red light on the dash continues to flash even when I turn the key. Maybe that's disabling it...I tried both my keys and the same thing happens. That would be wierd that both keys are bad.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
Not sure on how to help you on your prob but just wanted to know why you didn't just unplug the battery and pull the line with a rag in your hand to catch the fuel? That's what I did on my 07 4.6 and only took me 10 mins including disconecting and reconecting the battery. Never even touched the fuse or any relays.
#9
Well - I guess I learned my lesson. I looked on-line. someone said to lightly hit the inertia switch to temporarily disable the fuel pump (didn't do that) and then someone just said disconnect the switch and run the vehical until it stops running. Next time I change the fuel filter - I'll just disconnect the battery and let the truck sit a little while.
The voltage at my battery was about 12.26 if I remember correctly.
In the mean time - over the weekend I had someone that works at Ford make a house call and ran a diagnostic. His computer could not make a connection with the PCM on my truck and checked to make sure I have voltage at the fuse box... His diagnosis - is that I need to replace the computer. I think that this is just coincidental...but who knows if I would have only just disconnected the battery cable to alleviate the fuel pressure - maybe I wouldn't have had this problem? I feel pretty confident that the computer is the problem since a Ford Technician diagnosed it. I paid 50 bucks and then he'll come back out to reprogram for another 20. So far the best price for a referbished computer was at advanced auto 289 - I think Ford wants 6 to 800 bucks for a brand new one.
The voltage at my battery was about 12.26 if I remember correctly.
In the mean time - over the weekend I had someone that works at Ford make a house call and ran a diagnostic. His computer could not make a connection with the PCM on my truck and checked to make sure I have voltage at the fuse box... His diagnosis - is that I need to replace the computer. I think that this is just coincidental...but who knows if I would have only just disconnected the battery cable to alleviate the fuel pressure - maybe I wouldn't have had this problem? I feel pretty confident that the computer is the problem since a Ford Technician diagnosed it. I paid 50 bucks and then he'll come back out to reprogram for another 20. So far the best price for a referbished computer was at advanced auto 289 - I think Ford wants 6 to 800 bucks for a brand new one.
#10
#11
#13
You won't see 14V on a static battery. The only time your battery should be reading 14(.4)V is when the engine is running as that is the alternator providing a charge. Most batteries stay between 12V-12.5V at rest.