I was hearing a low-pitched "rumble" when coasting between 15-45 MPH. It was right after I got my new Terra Graps, so I was thinking it was the new tires - but have heard the Terra Graps one of the quietest tires out there, with a fairly aggressive tread.

I decided to lift the front of the truck up and perform the IWE and bearing test, but each passed without any issues. However, I did notice a "squeek" when spinning the driver's side tire. I had a similar issue in my S-10 ZR2, which ended up being the driver's side bearing.

I picked up a bearing set off eBay (National 515079) for $200 shipped, as well as some Motorcraft 4x4 High Temp bearing grease (XG-11) and some Motorcraft Silicone Brake Caliper Grease and Dielectric Compound (XG-3) since I was going to work on the calipers - and eventually the spark plugs soon. Total cost from the dealer was $45 for these two.



Now, on the to hubs...

With the tire off, take note of the speed senor wire and IWE vacuum hoses.



Using a 13mm socket, take off the brake caliper. Use a coat hanger or heavy gauge wire to hold the caliper and prevent tension on the brake line.



Using and 18mm socket, take off the caliper mounting bracket.



All that remains is the rotor - which simply sildes out.




Next, use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the speed sensor.




Using the 18mm socket, remove the (4) hub mounting bolts.




A flat head screwdriver helps to pop out the hub nut cover. Use a 13mm socket to remove the nut. NOTE: Ford recommends that you discard this nut. I decided to reuse mine.




The hub/bearing will now slide out. Here are some side-by-side comarisions of the factory (91K) and the new National hub.




Turns out, my suspicion was correct: Sorry for sounding like a robot

[youtube]QDGWpKRJDzU[/youtube]

 

I used the XG-11 bearing grease to lube up the new hub and IWE gears.




I noticed that the newer speed sensor cable was longer than the factory cable. The sensor itself was also different, so I decieded to use the new one and deal with the slack.




Reinstall the hub, install the 13mm hub nut, tighten up the (4) 18mm hub mounting bolts and reinstall the rotor. NOTE: Ford recommends that you discard the hub nut. I decided to reuse mine.




The hub nut cap didn't snap into the new National hub, so I deformed it slightly and it worked out.




Before remounting the caliper bracket, I greased the slide pins with the XG-3. The pins are different, so I typically take one out at a time to avoid inadvertently swapping them. Also decided to install new caliper hardware, while I was there.





The new National speed sensor wire didn't line up with the factory mounting points, so I got some black tie-wraps to finish up the install




Put everything back together and the "rumble" is gone.

Hope this helps out anyone else with hub/bearing problems.

 

This "rumble" noise you say, is it more like a light clicking Noticed my front driver side wheel making like a light clicking noise up until about 40-45 mph after I put my lift on and i found the same hubs on ebay you just put on and was thinking of grabbing them up, not a bad price. Thinking with 70k on it I probably should replace them

Kick *** write up too BTW!

 

Nice write up....

 

Not really a clicking. I would hear it when I was coasting down from 45-15 MPH. Sounded like a really nobby mud tire or a super under-inflated tire. I could feel some vibration through the gas & brake pedals with my foot hovered over them.

Didn't make a difference if I was turning or going straight.


Now, I did hear a clicking minutes after I had my 6" lift installed. Ended up being the rim weights hitting on the lower ball joint bolt. I had 17" rims and the shop stacked weights on top of each other vs installing the correct sized weights. Decided to jump to 20" to avoid future clearance issues.

 

I've got a problem. First, thanks everyone for the great info on this site!

I've got an answer for the hub assembly nut replacement. Advance auto doesn't have them. The Ford dealer gave me three options: Special order them through Ford, install new CV joints (they are included), do what the Ford dealer does and re-use the old ones with some blue Loc-Tite. I'm not sure I like any of those options. The nut has a part that rotates on it that looks like it will eventually wear out. I'll probably use the old one for now and special order new ones. This leads to my problem.

I got the hub assembly off and found the seal betwen the hub and the CV joint is bad. It allowed water in. That probably caused my hub to fail. What is that seal called and how do I replace it? Haynes doesn't even mention it.

 

I believe that is your IWE actuator.




Try this: https://www.f150online.com/forums/ar...replacing.html

 

I think I found a better description of the seal's location: it is inside the steering knuckle. It is between the CV axle and the hub assembly. It is rubber with a spring inside it. It doen't move.

Does this make sense? Is it part of the CV axle?

Also, the hub replacement went perfectly (except the seal), but I still hear an ittermittant tapping. The bearing noises are gone. I'm thinking CV axle is probably bad as well. There was rust, etc under the old hub. Any way to check it? There doesn't seem to be any play in the CV axle.