the truck is still dead = extreme frustration
#18
short somewhere. I'll see if I can trace the wire on my alldata account if the baby lets me that is.
If the fuse is F2.101 change the starter relay. If that fuse that is blow is F2.102 check the other fuses like F2.01, F2.07. F2.13 if they are all good I'd change the ignition switch. probably shorted internally. That ignition fuse delivers power from the junction box to the ignition via a LG/VT wire it's a pretty heavy wire around 12 gauge. That could be shorted if you recently did some work behind the dash.
If the fuse is F2.101 change the starter relay. If that fuse that is blow is F2.102 check the other fuses like F2.01, F2.07. F2.13 if they are all good I'd change the ignition switch. probably shorted internally. That ignition fuse delivers power from the junction box to the ignition via a LG/VT wire it's a pretty heavy wire around 12 gauge. That could be shorted if you recently did some work behind the dash.
Last edited by Impact9; 08-05-2009 at 10:59 AM.
#21
ok here's a link to the diagram you need.
I'd bank on the ignition switch being toast. I'd probably test it by putting a multimeter lead into that fuse holder on the switch side and the other lead on ground with the meter set to continuity check/ohms then cycle the ignition. If the meter zeros out on the ohms or beeps then the switch would be shorted internally. You might pay attention for what position it's in when it indicates a short. But more than likely it's the switch.
I added the testing procedures to that album.
I'd bank on the ignition switch being toast. I'd probably test it by putting a multimeter lead into that fuse holder on the switch side and the other lead on ground with the meter set to continuity check/ohms then cycle the ignition. If the meter zeros out on the ohms or beeps then the switch would be shorted internally. You might pay attention for what position it's in when it indicates a short. But more than likely it's the switch.
I added the testing procedures to that album.
Last edited by Impact9; 08-05-2009 at 02:55 PM.
#22
ok here's a link to the diagram you need.
I'd bank on the ignition switch being toast. I'd probably test it by putting a multimeter lead into that fuse holder on the switch side and the other lead on ground with the meter set to continuity check/ohms then cycle the ignition. If the meter zeros out on the ohms or beeps then the switch would be shorted internally. You might pay attention for what position it's in when it indicates a short. But more than likely it's the switch.
I added the testing procedures to that album.
I'd bank on the ignition switch being toast. I'd probably test it by putting a multimeter lead into that fuse holder on the switch side and the other lead on ground with the meter set to continuity check/ohms then cycle the ignition. If the meter zeros out on the ohms or beeps then the switch would be shorted internally. You might pay attention for what position it's in when it indicates a short. But more than likely it's the switch.
I added the testing procedures to that album.
[/LIST]
#23
edit: if I'm remembering right there is something in our owners manual about programming new keys. You might be able to fool the system by doing the steps with one of the orginal keys taped on the side of the steering column near the ignition switch. I've never changed the ignition but on my old thunderbird and that was pretty easy. From what I seen it don't look too hard. hopefully someone else can post some information. You may want to start a new thread or PM rockpick to change the thread title to something like ignition bad help!
Last edited by Impact9; 08-05-2009 at 03:08 PM.