$239 ROTUNDA TOOL NOT NEEDED!!!!!!!I spent $2.86 - Page 2

Ftruck05 · #16 03-15-2008, 10:46 PM

The weather is starting to break here. Soon it will be in the 50's and I will attempt this task. My truck has a little over 68k on the ticker. Thanks for the great pics and info. What # plugs broke on you??? Would this tool have worked on the #4 or #8 cylinder?

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effects4 · #17 03-16-2008, 08:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ftruck05

That is SWEET!!! We need more in depth info though. What size threaded rod and everything else??? Can you please list that info?

I used a 3/8 x 16 coarse threaded tap
1 foot section of 3/8 x 16 threaded rod
4 pack of nuts..although you only need 3
1 washer

anything smaller will not grab, anything bigger won't fit in the hole without risking damage.

all the sockets I used were 1/2 inch drive, starting with a 1 inch deep socket. I just got back from Charlotte, so I'm going to work on the last plug. I'll take a picture of it installed, so you can see the height of the tool. I am fairly certain it will work as is for the back 2 plugs.

06 SANDSTONE · #18 03-16-2008, 09:33 PM

Congrats !!

http://www.f150online.com/galleries/...474&anum=14512

effects4 · #19 03-16-2008, 11:23 PM

here's the tool in action. It is a bit too tall for the back plugs but you can easily cut it down. This is on the second plug back on the drivers side.

Truck is all back together now and runs A TON better!! It idles smoother (and quieter?!) and is noticeably quicker. The CEL was on but I disconnected the battery and it hasn't come back on yet. Hopefully it was just from cranking it over on 6 cylinders. May try to run by the parts store tomorrow to see if it throws a code. I expect that my MPG's go up as well., I'll report on that later. I was getting right at 14.3

Cory · #20 03-18-2008, 10:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by effects4

I used a 3/8 x 16 coarse threaded tap
1 foot section of 3/8 x 16 threaded rod
4 pack of nuts..although you only need 3
1 washer

anything smaller will not grab, anything bigger won't fit in the hole without risking damage.

all the sockets I used were 1/2 inch drive, starting with a 1 inch deep socket. I just got back from Charlotte, so I'm going to work on the last plug. I'll take a picture of it installed, so you can see the height of the tool. I am fairly certain it will work as is for the back 2 plugs.

How long was the tap that you used? The 3/8 x 16 threaded tap that comes in the kit that I have is only about 2 3/4 inches long. Would that be long enough?

effects4 · #21 03-19-2008, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cory

How long was the tap that you used? The 3/8 x 16 threaded tap that comes in the kit that I have is only about 2 3/4 inches long. Would that be long enough?

you only need to tap in about 2 threads. I used a socket and duct taped it to an extension so it wouldn't come off in the plug hole.

kd4crs · #22 10-06-2008, 05:07 PM

My next door neighbor has an 05 F150 with 40,000 miles on it and he asked me to help him change out his spark plugs to put in the Champion 7989s. Even after flowing the TSB to the letter we still broke the first one off we tried to get out. The rest of the plugs screeched, popped, creaked, and made all sorts of horrible noises coming out, but the rest came out in one piece. He made an improvised tool just like the one in this post and got the remains of the broken plug out just fine. So chalk up another win for the home-made tool.

Drail's FX2 · #23 10-06-2008, 07:32 PM

I only get red X for the pics?

Venmous28 · #24 10-08-2008, 12:12 AM

where can i locate this TSB?

Irish FX4 · #25 10-08-2008, 06:23 PM

I posted it here. Be sure to scroll down to the TSB.

http://www.f150online.com/forums/eng...g-removal.html

kjohnson1 · #26 10-08-2008, 10:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by effects4

So you probably read that I have 6 new plugs..and 2 broken ones.

I spent $2.86 on the threaded rod, 1 washer and 4 nuts. You can see I added some sockets as spacers. So what if it's shade tree, after racing so many years you learn to "improvise". I tapped the hole and I bet I didn't have 2 threads to grab on to, since it still had some porcelain in the bottom. I had them soaking overnight and voila, out they came with some coaxing and creativity. Now I did have to do a lot of chipping and vacuumming but all I did was attach a fuel line to my portable dust devil and sucked it up, worked like a champ!

I feel so good now!!!!!!!!!!!!

One more plug to go but I'll do that on Sunday. Right now I'm off to the ACC tourney......in a GMC. Oh well

Maybe I should get a job at Ford? hehe

So, which spark plugs did you put back in there?

kjohnson1 · #27 10-08-2008, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Venmous28

where can i locate this TSB?

Watch Episode Number 26

http://www.flatratetech.com/index.php?categoryid=4

DIHLON · #28 02-24-2009, 01:22 PM

Nothing has to be drilled prior to tapping? When it breaks, there's already a hole there that is the perfect fit for the 3/8" tap? Also, did you use the tap with the tapered head or just the squared off one? Also, you stated you used a course thread tap which you could only get 2 thread in. Any reason why not to use fine thread to get more threads in for a better grip?

Cyclepath · #29 03-10-2009, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIHLON

Nothing has to be drilled prior to tapping? When it breaks, there's already a hole there that is the perfect fit for the 3/8" tap? Also, did you use the tap with the tapered head or just the squared off one? Also, you stated you used a course thread tap which you could only get 2 thread in. Any reason why not to use fine thread to get more threads in for a better grip?

Well, I am in the middle of this mess right now and am getting more angry by the minute. I have gotten two out and broken four, 2 are still unknown.

I tested a fine thread 3/16 tap on the work bench and it will not work. Because the stainless sleeve is not the proper size for a 3/16 tap, you cannot get a fine thread tap to start, the course thread will only tap 2 threads because of the same reason. But, when the two threads are tapped and the all-thread is engaged it is pretty darn solid. This is why the rotunda kit uses a 9mm x 1.0 tap, but that all-thread would be a special order item.

Ok. so here is my question, I have had a failure not listed, the threaded sleeve has backed out leaving the entire porcelain in tact. What do i do now, do i put a screwdriver in there and crack it off? Also, on the normal failure when the porcelain fills the stainless sleeve, how do i get that out of there enough to run the tap in? Do i chisel it away with a screwdriver?

**Bluejay** · #30 03-10-2009, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cyclepath

Well, I am in the middle of this mess right now and am getting more angry by the minute. I have gotten two out and broken four, 2 are still unknown.

I tested a fine thread 3/16 tap on the work bench and it will not work. Because the stainless sleeve is not the proper size for a 3/16 tap, you cannot get a fine thread tap to start, the course thread will only tap 2 threads because of the same reason. But, when the two threads are tapped and the all-thread is engaged it is pretty darn solid. This is why the rotunda kit uses a 9mm x 1.0 tap, but that all-thread would be a special order item.

Ok. so here is my question, I have had a failure not listed, the threaded sleeve has backed out leaving the entire porcelain in tact. What do i do now, do i put a screwdriver in there and crack it off? Also, on the normal failure when the porcelain fills the stainless sleeve, how do i get that out of there enough to run the tap in? Do i chisel it away with a screwdriver?

Hopefully, someone will post that has done this, but my recollection is that the porcelain can be pushed down far enough to get a couple of thread in the shank, and that is all that is needed. Also, some have used the super glue method to put a small rod with gue in the center of the porcelain, let it set and then pull it out. There is actually a Ford kit for that.