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  #76  
Old 03-07-2007, 05:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozcar2
I looked through a digital version of a Ford shop manual for the current generation F-150 and did not see any procedure for adjusting the rod.

Do the service techs have additional resources that spells out this procedure?

If so, how do we get a copy of it?

Should we offer a reward to the first person who gets a copy?
May want to search for information on adjusting brake pedal free play, there should be a specification for that. I know there is a specification and procedure for this in my old Haynes manual for my 1979 Ford truck, since it must be done whenever the master cylinder is replaced.

Just as an update, I posted this in the other soft brake pedal thread, but it got buried, so I'll post here also.
I adjusted my rod, first approx. 1 turn out, test drove it, and found the brakes to be sticking. I backed it off to ~5/8 turn out from stock, and I think I hit it right on the money. NO MORE DOUBLE PUMP NECESSARY! The overall feel of the brakes is pretty similar to before, i.e. they really aren't much stronger, but the response is GREATLY improved and as I mentioned, I no longer have to double pump to get a firm feel on the brakes. My particular truck has already had its M.C. replaced (at 400miles, due to total failure), and it really makes me wonder if the technicians even took the time to adjust the brake pedal free play after replacement. My guess is that they just slapped the new one on, figuring that it would be "close enough"...
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  #77  
Old 03-07-2007, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford141
May want to search for information on adjusting brake pedal free play, there should be a specification for that.

Just as an update, I posted this in the other soft brake pedal thread, but it got buried, so I'll post here also.
I adjusted my rod, first approx. 1 turn out, test drove it, and found the brakes to be sticking. I backed it off to ~5/8 turn out from stock, and I think I hit it right on the money. NO MORE DOUBLE PUMP NECESSARY! The overall feel of the brakes is pretty similar to before, i.e. they really aren't much stronger, but the response is GREATLY improved and as I mentioned, I no longer have to double pump to get a firm feel on the brakes. My particular truck has already had its M.C. replaced (at 400miles, due to total failure), and it really makes me wonder if the technicians even took the time to adjust the brake pedal free play after replacement. My guess is that they just slapped the new one on, figuring that it would be "close enough"...

You’re probably 100% right on your assumption of their technique. Technically speaking though, that rod shouldn’t have to be adjusted if the QC on these parts was better. Of course, that’s why the rod has an adjustment…LOL
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  #78  
Old 03-07-2007, 08:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford141
May want to search for information on adjusting brake pedal free play, there should be a specification for that. I know there is a specification and procedure for this in my old Haynes manual for my 1979 Ford truck, since it must be done whenever the master cylinder is replaced.
Thanks, I'll dig deeper into the master cylinder replacement section to see if it mentions the rod adjusment.

Is there a technical term for this rod?
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  #79  
Old 03-07-2007, 10:59 PM
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No luck on finding the procedure in the Ford Shop Manual.

For the master cylinder replacement, it just shows the parts to take off.

It does not mention any adjustments.
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  #80  
Old 03-07-2007, 11:01 PM
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I've been meaning to say this but haven't got around it until now, great job rms8!! We need more threads like this going around the forum and less threads about the damn Tundra and what not. Good job!
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  #81  
Old 03-07-2007, 11:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ThumperMX113
I've been meaning to say this but haven't got around it until now, great job rms8!! We need more threads like this going around the forum and less threads about the damn Tundra and what not. Good job!

Thanks for the acknowledgement! I was so thrilled to have my pedal feel normal! The first thing I thought of when I test drove the truck was “…I HAVE TO POST THIS FIX !!”. I just remember reading so many posts about the issue and so many disgruntled Ford owners! At least this one can be put to rest.

But it’s not over…heck no, the best part is this….It’s a flip’n F R E E fix! Takes anywhere from 15-30 or so minutes to complete. Depends on how **** you are. Me, it would take about the 30 minutes cause I’m on the verge of being a “neat freak”. Buuuut anyway, it’s free!
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  #82  
Old 03-08-2007, 12:07 AM
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the only thing were missing is pictures and/or a written procedure from the factory manuals.

Any volunteers?

Anyone else have any luck trying to expain this adjustment to a service department? I'm not sure what kind of response I'll get if I ask my dealer to, ah, rotate my rod.
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  #83  
Old 03-08-2007, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ozcar2
the only thing were missing is pictures and/or a written procedure from the factory manuals.

Any volunteers?

Anyone else have any luck trying to expain this adjustment to a service department? I'm not sure what kind of response I'll get if I ask my dealer to, ah, rotate my rod.

I don't know which sounds worse, "rod" or "shaft".... Good luck on that one...
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  #84  
Old 03-08-2007, 09:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rms8
You’re probably 100% right on your assumption of their technique. Technically speaking though, that rod shouldn’t have to be adjusted if the QC on these parts was better. Of course, that’s why the rod has an adjustment…LOL
You're right about the QC, but like you said, the rod does have adjustment, so I would assume that this *should* be set up every time the MC is replaced.

Just judging by the fact that ozcar has not been able to locate a procedure to adjust the rod, I'm thinking that this is one of the cases where Ford has preset the adjustment well on the conservative side, keeping it the same for all trucks, so that production times are cut down and all are within the "safe" range. Unfortunately, this "conservative" setting hurts performance because the setting is not optimal for each particular truck. If Ford took the time to adjust every rod for every truck, the cost goes up, truck prices go up, comparative shoppers buy a Yota... It's the same with Ford's conservative tuning on the engine and transmission. They want to stay well within the "safe" range.

Oh, and I'd just like to offer my congrats to you, rms8 for keeping on this so much and keeping it from getting buried under all of the "post your green with pink racing stripe truck pics"... We went through all of that months ago, and while its cool to look at to get ideas, it does get old. This is a good technical thread that offers a solution to a problem. I, being a Electro-mechanical engineer by profession, really like solving problems, so... *rambling done*
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  #85  
Old 03-08-2007, 11:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ford141
You're right about the QC, but like you said, the rod does have adjustment, so I would assume that this *should* be set up every time the MC is replaced.

Just judging by the fact that ozcar has not been able to locate a procedure to adjust the rod, I'm thinking that this is one of the cases where Ford has preset the adjustment well on the conservative side, keeping it the same for all trucks, so that production times are cut down and all are within the "safe" range. Unfortunately, this "conservative" setting hurts performance because the setting is not optimal for each particular truck. If Ford took the time to adjust every rod for every truck, the cost goes up, truck prices go up, comparative shoppers buy a Yota... It's the same with Ford's conservative tuning on the engine and transmission. They want to stay well within the "safe" range.

Oh, and I'd just like to offer my congrats to you, rms8 for keeping on this so much and keeping it from getting buried under all of the "post your green with pink racing stripe truck pics"... We went through all of that months ago, and while its cool to look at to get ideas, it does get old. This is a good technical thread that offers a solution to a problem. I, being a Electro-mechanical engineer by profession, really like solving problems, so... *rambling done*

DITTO, DITTO, DITTO .....
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  #86  
Old 03-08-2007, 11:50 AM
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no one yet has explained why it can be ok for quite awhile (years), then seem spongy......? can this rod turn somehow? i really can't remember mine being double pumped from the beginning of ownership, just seems as though the last few months or so???? just curious....i to found this thread invaluable. an easy fix.....any thoughts?
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  #87  
Old 03-08-2007, 12:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jims94vmx
no one yet has explained why it can be ok for quite awhile (years), then seem spongy......? can this rod turn somehow? i really can't remember mine being double pumped from the beginning of ownership, just seems as though the last few months or so???? just curious....i to found this thread invaluable. an easy fix.....any thoughts?

How many miles on your truck? I guess the progression to the spongy pedal could be due to wear/age in any one of the braking components or simply air in the lines. I wouldn’t try to bleed them on your own. Unfortunately, vehicles equipped with ABS have to be bled by a place capable of opening all the valves in the ABS module. The simple days are gone in this respect. I have a power bleeder (works off the air compressor) which I still use on my other cars, but would never use that on the truck.

The rod adjustment is only advisable on a truck which had this condition from day one. In your case, adjusting the rod is only COMPENSATING (i.e., masking) for a completely different problem. You should have the braking system checked first before going the rod route, since, as I said, the rod adjustment is only a correct fix for the spongy brake pedal on a truck which had this condition from the very first day.
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  #88  
Old 03-08-2007, 06:04 PM
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I'm still trying to figure out if my brakes are "spongy" as many are describing it. All I can say is that the brakes on this truck are inadequate at best...and my other 05 F150 was exactly the same. If I get on the brakes kind of hard it'll slow down initially, but as you press harder on the brake to try to slow even more, its like there's nothing left...you can jam the brake pedal as far as it will go and you can't really get any massive braking power out of it. This is hard to describe and I know I haven't described it the way I want to, but both of my 2005 F-150s have been pretty similar in braking power. I'm a converted GM to Ford guy, and not saying I'm gonna jump ship back to the dark side....but if I didn't buy another Ford, it wouldn't be because of the engine/trans in these trucks but rather the brakes. Maybe this fix could work for me Anyway....thanks for all the great posts on this topic. It's great to see others go out of their way when they find some really usefull info in order to help others. That's what makes this place so awesome and why I spend countless hours every day reading all these threads.
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  #89  
Old 03-09-2007, 01:54 AM
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Update: No dice from my service department here. Next time I see them I' ll give them an ear full. Anyway I performed this work my self this after noon. Easy as pie. I may need to go a bit more on the adjustment in which case I'll take some pics so we can put together a nice little write up.

Shane
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  #90  
Old 03-09-2007, 07:44 AM
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I would like to add my thanks to rms8 on this thread. I now have about 400 miles on the adjusted rod and have been ecstatic over the results. The fix was quick, easy, and free. More importantly, it works. We certainly could use more post like this. Thanks rms8, this is one of those annoyances that I can cross of my to do list.
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Old 03-09-2007, 07:44 AM


 
 
 
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