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Lights flickering after audio install...

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  #1  
Old 05-21-2006, 12:01 AM
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Question Lights flickering after audio install...

First off, I know there are various audio forums for various questions & problems -- I've been posting in them on a regular basis recently! I've placed this post in this forum for a few reasons: many more people read this one, it's specific to a 2004+ F-150 and the overall answer is probably going to be to rewire my charging system.

At max my audio system is capable of putting out nearly 1,000 watts. I have an Alpine MRV-F345 feeding my door speakers (components in front doors, 5x7's in rear) & a JL Audio 500/1 feeding two Oz Audio 10" subs.

This is how it's all powered:

a) #4 from battery to 3-way distribution block behind rear seat (fused @ 150 amps)
b) #8 feeding the Alpine amp (branch 1 fused @ 60 amps)
c) #8 feeding the JL Audio amp (branch 2 fused @ 60 amps)
d) #6 running to a 1 farad capacitor (branch 3 fused @ 60 amps)

As stated in the title, when I crank it up the lights dim... the capacitor is able to recover if the bass hits are spread apart, but that's usually not the case. I know this can take a toll on a cars electrical system, and I know the overall answer is to do the BIG3 upgrade: ground chassis to battery, ground chassis to engine & battery to alternator.

Although I know it's a shot-in-the-dark, I just wonder if the sub amp isn't feeding off the capacitor quick enough with it not being inline with the sub itself. I know electricity, and I know it's going to take the path of least resistance... so I know it has to be draining the cap then going to the battery.

For those who have done the BIG3 upgrade, is it very difficult on our trucks? I'd want to keep the stock wiring intact if possible. Considering I'm running a fairly beefed up audio system (with that big red #4 looking right at you when you open the hood) I know the dealer could already give me crap on my 3/36... I'm just wondering if they'd go one step further & freak out if I do the wiring upgrade.

Anyways, any suggestions would be appreciated!
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Old 05-21-2006, 12:32 AM
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Did you charge the Capacitor before installing it?
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Old 05-21-2006, 12:39 AM
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Location: Suwanee, GA & Montana
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try turning your dimmer switch on the left of the dash up... so your dash lights are brighter...see if that might help
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  #4  
Old 05-21-2006, 12:47 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: TEXAS \m/
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battery

i had that same problem i am running about 2000 watts
got a 2 farad cap
and upgraded to a yellow top optima
solved all dimming problems
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  #5  
Old 05-21-2006, 12:49 AM
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Location: Temecula, CA
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First...get rid of the cap. It doesn't help your situation, regardless of what others say. All it does is draw from you electrical system which you are trying to avoid in the first place.

You kinda answered your own question. Do a big 3 upgrade (it's easy) w/ a yellow top or red top, if it still happens get 2nd battery, and if still needed you can get an HO alternator.
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  #6  
Old 05-21-2006, 12:56 AM
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Location: Princeton,wv
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yep a cap is useless. after it discharges the lil power it has stored it will put a load on the electrical system just like was mentioned

nothing is better then a bigger alt and battery(s)
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