Cab fire
#1
Cab fire
02' f150 suber cab...I had a little fire in the passenger side door pocket...burnt things up pretty well. Managed to contain things to the door.
Drove home some 25-30 miles and then to town trying to chase down interior door parts, so additional 40 miles.
Got home & proceed to remove what was left of the door panel. The electric windows where down ( both sides) and inoperative. I figure it was just a blown fuse, no biggy.
I cut the worst part of the wiring harness in the door out. Separated the wires for the window and hot wired the window motor just so to get the window up. Worked like a charm , no funny noises, zipp up it went & removed the temporary power source, (cordless drill battery 18v., which was about half charge). Taped up the wires ends so not to short out anything else..
1) Ok is there a disconnect to the passenger side door wiring harness inside the same side front fender or does it go all the way to the main power/fuse block?
2) Why could I start and run all the way back home and then another 40 mile round trip & run perfect and now miss and fart around?? check engine light on and the trans shift wand the tow light is flashing?
Drove home some 25-30 miles and then to town trying to chase down interior door parts, so additional 40 miles.
Got home & proceed to remove what was left of the door panel. The electric windows where down ( both sides) and inoperative. I figure it was just a blown fuse, no biggy.
I cut the worst part of the wiring harness in the door out. Separated the wires for the window and hot wired the window motor just so to get the window up. Worked like a charm , no funny noises, zipp up it went & removed the temporary power source, (cordless drill battery 18v., which was about half charge). Taped up the wires ends so not to short out anything else..
1) Ok is there a disconnect to the passenger side door wiring harness inside the same side front fender or does it go all the way to the main power/fuse block?
2) Why could I start and run all the way back home and then another 40 mile round trip & run perfect and now miss and fart around?? check engine light on and the trans shift wand the tow light is flashing?
#2
My guess is that the short in the door damaged some wiring back closer to the battery and fuse box and that a hot wire may have melted into another wire that is related to the engine or tranny. The short in the door should have blown a fuse before it became a full scale fire so I'd start by unbolting the fuse panels(s) and having a good close look at them, front and back. I'd also look at the relay panel and in particular around the relays that related to the P door, lock, window, and anything else in the door that draws power.
#3
update;
I got it running back to normal. I'm a idiot, In my haste to clean up the mess and melted wires.
I cut out the worst part. What I failed to do is disconnect the battery prior to cutting. I knew at this point that there was fuse blown already, so snip snip I went. Then I tried to get more fuses and it ran sh!##y. back home I went.
So I calmed down some & thought about it.... got more fuses and replaced them. Scanned for codes and came up with Like nine. All the while checking the fuses I replace to see if the continue to pop. None seem to have so far. I cleared the codes and all still seems to be OK....I have to drive more to see if more show up.
SO when I cut the wires I shorted things out that should never be...
TO be safe I parked it outside for the night and will pop the battery cable off too.
fuses that blew
under the dash #14 & #2 or #4....thinking it was #2
Under the hood #23 & either #13 or #9
the only thing Odd that is happening now is that the dome light goes out when ever the passenger door is opened
I got it running back to normal. I'm a idiot, In my haste to clean up the mess and melted wires.
I cut out the worst part. What I failed to do is disconnect the battery prior to cutting. I knew at this point that there was fuse blown already, so snip snip I went. Then I tried to get more fuses and it ran sh!##y. back home I went.
So I calmed down some & thought about it.... got more fuses and replaced them. Scanned for codes and came up with Like nine. All the while checking the fuses I replace to see if the continue to pop. None seem to have so far. I cleared the codes and all still seems to be OK....I have to drive more to see if more show up.
SO when I cut the wires I shorted things out that should never be...
TO be safe I parked it outside for the night and will pop the battery cable off too.
fuses that blew
under the dash #14 & #2 or #4....thinking it was #2
Under the hood #23 & either #13 or #9
the only thing Odd that is happening now is that the dome light goes out when ever the passenger door is opened
Last edited by enriched; 02-20-2017 at 07:40 AM. Reason: more & spelling
#4
My guess is that the short in the door damaged some wiring back closer to the battery and fuse box and that a hot wire may have melted into another wire that is related to the engine or tranny. The short in the door should have blown a fuse before it became a full scale fire so I'd start by unbolting the fuse panels(s) and having a good close look at them, front and back. I'd also look at the relay panel and in particular around the relays that related to the P door, lock, window, and anything else in the door that draws power.
So it must be under one of those multi generic power acc slots?? IDK I'm getting too tired to look at it to night.
I must of been a real sight....I had Knee replacement just before thanksgiving and am now just starting to move around pretty well. I limp pretty good again as the day wears on. SO here I am hobbling and limping around, throw damp dirt at the flames. lost a cap too
I'll check into it more...Thanks for the insight
Could have been worse
Last edited by enriched; 02-20-2017 at 07:42 AM. Reason: Added photo
#5
#7
causes???
A more probable theory is.... that a spark/ember floated into the lower door pocket and ignited some paper, glove, shop towel....I was burning some brush in the bayou pasture. The truck was parked up wind and a good 15-20 ft away...making the window more like 20-25 ft. window were down , engine off and ACC was on so I could listen to the radio. Once the fire got going I was adding stuff that still had frost and ice on it, so it wasn't like everything was tinder dry and full of sparks
Last edited by enriched; 02-22-2017 at 06:20 PM. Reason: more
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#11
PS did you take a CLOSE look at the wires that were located where the fire happened? If they shorted you can often find the copper melted, but if it was an non-electrical fire then the insulation will burn but the copper will look intact. OTOH that may not be true on the THIN wire that Ford uses.
#12
PS did you take a CLOSE look at the wires that were located where the fire happened? If they shorted you can often find the copper melted, but if it was an non-electrical fire then the insulation will burn but the copper will look intact. OTOH that may not be true on the THIN wire that Ford uses.
There is a fair bit of bare wire that insulation melted away...but none that looks like the cooper is melted away.
I got MUCH of the smell knocked down with good ole baking soda sprinkled in the carpet. I agree that much of the "scented" stuff is undesirable.
I think they had that Ozium stuff at Advanced Auto at about the same price.
#13
I'm Looking for wiring diagram/schematic for....( you guessed it) the passenger side door. one with electric door locks and power window and rear mirror.
Ok weather is warming up... & I got a harness out of the salvage yard. Are wire color codes going to be the same within this generation especially the later half 2000-2003?
Did some clean up....wire brushed off all the stuck on melted plastic and sprayed on some bed liner cover up everything again
Last edited by enriched; 03-19-2017 at 11:07 AM. Reason: more