1997 - 2003 F-150

Motor died while driving

  #16  
Old 09-26-2012, 07:54 AM
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Thinking is the hardest work there is, which is probably the reason why so few engage in it.
-Henry Ford

Only a true American idiot would get out of the vehicle with it in gear and running.
-57tele

You may not like what I just said but that's ok, as long as you read it.

Now with that out of the way....

Coming together is a beginning; keeping together is progress; working together is success.
-Henry Ford

Let me reword things so it is understood better. If your ride was sitting for a long period of time the electric supply (battery/alt circuit) has potential to be inefficient to supply the computer/circuits with the necessary voltages applied and their needs (ecm overload). So when I flipped the light on I added current draw, then tapped the brakes (ABS system Current draw increase~2ft of snow!) the battery/alt system supply was not enough causing the engine to stall, od --------. Though yes through a "stroke of luck" I was not off and road side, it restarted itself, never stopped inertia.

The only thing I had changed was the battery.

Biggrey, how long was your ride sitting before the trip that it died on you? Have you changed your belt? Alt been checked recently? How old is your battery?

please update us your status
 
  #17  
Old 09-28-2012, 02:22 PM
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Had the same problem, turned out to be the fuel pump relay was overheated. Swaped with another one and fired right up.
 
  #18  
Old 10-01-2012, 03:28 AM
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Originally Posted by 57tele
Thinking is the hardest work there is, which is probably the reason why so few engage in it.
-Henry Ford

Only a true American idiot would get out of the vehicle with it in gear and running.
-57tele

You may not like what I just said but that's ok, as long as you read it.
I read it and liked it
Originally Posted by 57tele
Biggrey, how long was your ride sitting before the trip that it died on you? Have you changed your belt? Alt been checked recently? How old is your battery?

please update us your status
That may be a little to much to ask, -since biggrey hasn't been around here since last Christmas.

But! You never know right...
 
  #19  
Old 10-01-2012, 03:39 AM
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Originally Posted by righton780
Had the same problem, turned out to be the fuel pump relay was overheated. Swaped with another one and fired right up.
Yep! And that's how you know when they're bad. They will be warm to the touch. Just a little warm and its bad,- doesn't have long before it goes completely, IF it hasn't already.. A change in temp should NEVER be evident with the type relay that these vehicles use.

In a pinch, you can swap fuel pump w/horn relay. To test or use. Only in some of these trucks tho, -Ford changed power distribution around allot over the years, -10th generation.
 
  #20  
Old 10-01-2012, 09:14 AM
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oops, thanks brew, the nurse must have forgot my pills again....



StanW....where you at? update us please.... are you fixed yet?
 
  #21  
Old 10-31-2012, 01:10 PM
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Fixed? Sorta...

After not driving it for a few days, I got under the dash and loosened the bolt on the back of the main wiring harness going into the fuse panel closest to the door, pushing the wiring connection back in, and re-tightening.

Haven't had it die on me yet...but I'm not thoroughly convinced that was the only problem. Time will tell.

thanks to all for your input!
S
 
  #22  
Old 12-09-2012, 01:01 AM
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My 1999 5.4L stalled out while driving tonight.
Seemed to happen when I let off the gas and the rpms dropped to idle.
Started right up the first few times, then it wouldn't start... cranked just fine.
I let it sit for several minutes, then it started, and I managed to get about 100 feet and off the road.
Gas gauge was just below 1/4 tank.

Last weekend I took it on a 8 hour trip. No issues.
I let it sit for a week, before driving tonight. The first stall was after about 20 minutes of driving.

For some reason, I feel like it was fuel related.

I'm going back tomorrow with a can of gas and look at it in the daylight.
 
  #23  
Old 12-09-2012, 09:22 AM
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I know nothing about F150's and not much about mechanics, but this issue sure sound like a problem I had once with my Jeep. The Jeep dealers that seen it, didn't know what was wrong, it didn't show a code and it was an intermittent problem. It would happen for no apparent reason and while driving. Sometime start right up and other time I would try and try for hour+ and than it would start right up as if there never was a problem in the first place.
Found the answer on forum like this one. In my case it was the Crank Position Sensor.
 
  #24  
Old 12-09-2012, 10:53 AM
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Blue, I'd lay odds on a plugged fuel filter. If it hasn't been changed in the past 30k it's overdue.
 
  #25  
Old 12-09-2012, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Nammy
I know nothing about F150's and not much about mechanics, but this issue sure sound like a problem I had once with my Jeep. The Jeep dealers that seen it, didn't know what was wrong, it didn't show a code and it was an intermittent problem. It would happen for no apparent reason and while driving. Sometime start right up and other time I would try and try for hour+ and than it would start right up as if there never was a problem in the first place.
Found the answer on forum like this one. In my case it was the Crank Position Sensor.
Those jeeps had a serious issue with those sensors.. even after replacing them if they were replaced with non oem parts.


Start with the cheap maintenance like glc said and change the filter.
 
  #26  
Old 12-09-2012, 09:26 PM
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I went back to get it this morning. It would barely start and move 20 feet.
Tried adding 4 gallons of gas.... no help.
Towed it home, and parked it.
It's not my primary vehicle, so no rush.

I was hoping it was an idle only issue, but it's not. It definitely doesn't idle, but it won't hold 2000-3000 rpms for more than a couple seconds.
It has to be fuel. It has to be.

It has 130,000 miles. In the 45,000 since I've had it, I've never changed the fuel filter, so I'll probably start there. And maybe find the fuel pump relay. (But it happened so fast!)

No codes.

I did some searching, and I've heard everything from IAC, MAF, TPS, Crank sensor, vacuum leak, relay, ground wire, PCM connections. I was hoping for an F150 stereotypical failure, like the COPS, dead odometer, or the PCV hose (which I've already experienced).
 
  #27  
Old 12-09-2012, 09:51 PM
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Your probably on the right track with the issue being fuel related so stick with that. Most the other things you listed have other symptoms. Fuel filter is $12? and takes 15 mins to change. I'll bet it's plugged or your fuel pump is going out.
 
  #28  
Old 12-10-2012, 01:31 AM
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While you are at the parts store picking up a fuel filter (do NOT get a Fram), borrow/rent a fuel pressure tester. There's a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for connecting it. See what happens to the fuel pressure when you rev it up. Specs are 28 to 45 psi if I remember correctly, and it should go up about 5 psi if you disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.
 
  #29  
Old 12-11-2012, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Nammy
I know nothing about F150's and not much about mechanics, but this issue sure sound like a problem I had once with my Jeep.
LOL, those dealers were morons. I hadn't even finished reading your sentence and I knew it was the TDC sensor. TDC is what we called them at the Jeep dealership I worked for.

Originally Posted by jethat
the odometer only shows ------- when it has lost power.
Not true. A speed sensor issue (or V10 swap) can cause this too. Obviously it won't cause the truck to die, but it can cause the -------

Sorry, sometimes I just like to chime in with useless info.
 
  #30  
Old 12-12-2012, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Toyz
...... Fuel filter is $12? and takes 15 mins to change. I'll bet it's plugged or your fuel pump is going out.
Originally Posted by glc
While you are at the parts store picking up a fuel filter (do NOT get a Fram), borrow/rent a fuel pressure tester. There's a Schrader valve on the fuel rail for connecting it. See what happens to the fuel pressure when you rev it up. Specs are 28 to 45 psi if I remember correctly, and it should go up about 5 psi if you disconnect the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator.
I still haven't looked at it. I'll probably save it for the Holidays... when it's reeeally cold outside.
The more I've thought about it, I'm leaning towards the fuel pump.
The pressure tester is the key to a proper diagnostic method.
 

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