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  #31  
Old 12-12-2010, 05:10 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: MI
Vehicle: 1998 Ford F150 5.4L 4X4
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Btw - this is what bad capacitors look like. See how their bulged on top ? Tops are suppose to be completely level so they can vent (aluminum cans). All of these had to be replaced in order to get the PCB functional once more.

http://picasaweb.google.com/jbrew393...03154110672466

Operation was a success lol.

BTW- Hit the zoom to see them better.
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  #32  
Old 12-12-2010, 07:22 PM
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Location: Alex Bay, NY
Vehicle: 1997 F150 XLT
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Hey jbrew and JMC, yes I see what your bad cap's look like. Mine did not look like that on my GEM when I had it apart. THey looked normal compared to yours in the photo.

So...do you guys think its worth my time and money to replace the t-case relay module? Is it a part only avialable from Ford or can I get a NAPA part?

Thanks guys, you've been a huge help as usual.
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  #33  
Old 12-12-2010, 09:41 PM
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No problem But, -Iduno lol, you say you can hear it hit correct. That's normal for that relay. I can assume it's the gate. I can hear that relay function as soon as I hit the ESOF switch. In fact it doesn't just click once, I believe it clicks twice.

I way to tell a bad relay is to feel with your hand while operating. If warm/hot to the touch, that's a very good indication it's bad. If your good with a multi meter you can test it out.

But , I'm not sure if yours is bad. I would test it.
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  #34  
Old 12-12-2010, 10:23 PM
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Hey jbrew, i understand. I think I'll see what happens from here on out if its going to act up again. It rained here today and I checked inside for leaks, nothing, so hopefully my windshield is good, and the GEM was/is ok as well. I'll keep this topic updated to let you guys know what is happening.
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  #35  
Old 12-20-2010, 07:36 PM
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Location: Alex Bay, NY
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Hey guys, trouble is back again. I decided to take dash switch out, disassemble and clean it. I did that, and ohmed it out, checked out perfect. Put it back together and problem is gone again.

Wierd that this is not consistent. DO you guys reccomend I take it to a shop to get it scanned and find out the problem once and for all? Is there anything else that would cause it to shift into 4x4 high and stay there, not wanting to shift back into 2H? I thought it would have been the switch in the dash for sure, but if it ohms out.........?
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  #36  
Old 12-21-2010, 12:00 AM
JMC JMC is offline
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Did you ever change the relay at the end of connector 221? At least remove it and test it?
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Jean Marc Chartier


4.6 to 5.4 swap, M5OD w/ Hurst short throw, Warn XD9000i, OBX Long Tubes /w Cats, Troyer E-fans, P-1SC Procharger @15psi, Troyer tuned. ;)
Swap notes; http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ml#post3570245
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  #37  
Old 12-21-2010, 12:31 AM
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Hey JMC, well I wasn't quite sure about two things, thats why I haven't tried to get at it yet.

One: I am not real clear on how to gain access to it.

Two: I don't know how to test it, or get a replacement relay (is it special or something you can buy at NAPA?)

Thank you
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  #38  
Old 12-21-2010, 01:36 PM
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Well guys or JMC haha, I took the plunge and pulled the upper dash, really not hard at all, bout 10 screws and you can access this relay. Number cast into the plastic is F75B-14B194-BC Pulled it apart and I think this is my problem, the circuitry has orange colored stains on it and one of the resistors in front of the special dual relay looks like it overheated, looks crispy and previosly hot. But the rust stains continue from that resistor around the relay and on the board.

I am taking it to a buddies shop to have it scanned just to be certain but was curious where to get one. The number on it doesn't correspond to any ford numbers?
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  #39  
Old 12-21-2010, 01:52 PM
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Location: Alex Bay, NY
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NAPA does have one ECH AR6655 $108 plus tax, they said I could have it for $100

Pics with cover removed

Click the image to open in full size.
Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by NYfordguy; 12-21-2010 at 01:57 PM.
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  #40  
Old 12-22-2010, 11:37 AM
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bump
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  #41  
Old 12-22-2010, 06:59 PM
JMC JMC is offline
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I thought that you had replaced it. Can you snap a picture of the other side?
jbrew can you put up a pic of connector C221? Need that to show what pins to probe for testing.
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Jean Marc Chartier


4.6 to 5.4 swap, M5OD w/ Hurst short throw, Warn XD9000i, OBX Long Tubes /w Cats, Troyer E-fans, P-1SC Procharger @15psi, Troyer tuned. ;)
Swap notes; http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ml#post3570245
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  #42  
Old 12-22-2010, 07:03 PM
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Hey JMC< I have an OEM Ford one coming for $80, I didn't like the rusty stains on the board or the looks of the one resistor. Pics coming up later on! THANK YOU!!!

If it helps the pins on the connector are like this from memory

7 8_______9 10 top

1 2 3 4 5 6 bottom row

Last edited by NYfordguy; 12-22-2010 at 07:06 PM.
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  #43  
Old 12-22-2010, 10:36 PM
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Heres the photo as promised JMC. Memory served me correctly!

Click the image to open in full size.
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  #44  
Old 12-23-2010, 11:26 AM
JMC JMC is offline
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If you have a bunch of wires, a DVM and a 12v battery I can help you test this module.

Ground pin 1 to the battery NEG terminal.
Send 12v from the battery POS terminal to pins 3 & 5. Ground Pin 9 and test pin 10, it should have 12v.
Unground pin 9, ground pin 8 and pin 7 should have 12v.
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Regards
Jean Marc Chartier


4.6 to 5.4 swap, M5OD w/ Hurst short throw, Warn XD9000i, OBX Long Tubes /w Cats, Troyer E-fans, P-1SC Procharger @15psi, Troyer tuned. ;)
Swap notes; http://www.f150online.com/forums/art...ml#post3570245
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  #45  
Old 12-23-2010, 03:59 PM
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Location: Alex Bay, NY
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Hey JMC< thanks for the tech information! I appreciate it. 3+5 supply power to the relay module huh? THen testing pins 7,8,9,10 is testing the votlage through the unit correct?

Does this test include the board resistors? The one looks like it got rusty/overheated in the pics. THere is some general orange discoloration throughout the board.
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Old 12-23-2010, 03:59 PM


 
 
 
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