Btw - this is what bad capacitors look like. See how their bulged on top ? Tops are suppose to be completely level so they can vent (aluminum cans). All of these had to be replaced in order to get the PCB functional once more.
No problem But, -Iduno lol, you say you can hear it hit correct. That's normal for that relay. I can assume it's the gate. I can hear that relay function as soon as I hit the ESOF switch. In fact it doesn't just click once, I believe it clicks twice.
I way to tell a bad relay is to feel with your hand while operating. If warm/hot to the touch, that's a very good indication it's bad. If your good with a multi meter you can test it out.
But , I'm not sure if yours is bad. I would test it.
Hey jbrew, i understand. I think I'll see what happens from here on out if its going to act up again. It rained here today and I checked inside for leaks, nothing, so hopefully my windshield is good, and the GEM was/is ok as well. I'll keep this topic updated to let you guys know what is happening.
Hey guys, trouble is back again. I decided to take dash switch out, disassemble and clean it. I did that, and ohmed it out, checked out perfect. Put it back together and problem is gone again.
Wierd that this is not consistent. DO you guys reccomend I take it to a shop to get it scanned and find out the problem once and for all? Is there anything else that would cause it to shift into 4x4 high and stay there, not wanting to shift back into 2H? I thought it would have been the switch in the dash for sure, but if it ohms out.........?
Well guys or JMC haha, I took the plunge and pulled the upper dash, really not hard at all, bout 10 screws and you can access this relay. Number cast into the plastic is F75B-14B194-BC Pulled it apart and I think this is my problem, the circuitry has orange colored stains on it and one of the resistors in front of the special dual relay looks like it overheated, looks crispy and previosly hot. But the rust stains continue from that resistor around the relay and on the board.
I am taking it to a buddies shop to have it scanned just to be certain but was curious where to get one. The number on it doesn't correspond to any ford numbers?
If you have a bunch of wires, a DVM and a 12v battery I can help you test this module.
Ground pin 1 to the battery NEG terminal.
Send 12v from the battery POS terminal to pins 3 & 5. Ground Pin 9 and test pin 10, it should have 12v.
Unground pin 9, ground pin 8 and pin 7 should have 12v.
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