My dipstick tube rusted and broke. I have a new dipstick tube from ford for my 1997 ford 5.4. Can the tube be installed without removing the stock manifold. It appears to be not sliding down between the manifold and block freely.
The old dipstick tube is removed. I tried to push the new tube from the top of the engine through the opening in the exhaust manifold and the bend in the tube prevented it from going through. I didn't want to force it and end up with another broken dipstick tube. Is there any special way to feed it through the opening in the manifold?
I had the same problem with my 98. I ended up cutting the dipstick tube with a pipe cutter down by the manifold, putting the piece in that goes into the pan and then connecting the top part with a thick piece of rubber tubing. Held the whole thing together with hose clamps. It's been 2 years now. Still holding up. Can be a pita to get the dipstick back in sometimes though because the two parts of the tube aren't perfectly lined up. But it saved me the trouble of having to remove the exhaust manifold.
Up on replacing my tube on a 4.6, I found the tube too long to get in place without cutting about 1" off the bottom of the tube.
There is about 3" +/- below the seal flange to work with.
You need the tube and stick to be air tight because the crankcase is part of the detection system and may set a code if the crankcase closed system has a leak to the outside.
I got it to work. I had to cut off the bolt mounting bracket and force it from the bottom up (had to also remove the fender well). I may try to jb weld the mounting bracket on, but it is not going anywhere. I also had to use a prybar to slightly bend the tube to fit into the oil hole in the block.
I put the new tube in about as far as it would go without force. It was below the opening and beyond it. I measured the extra length and removed the tube and cut off the 'extra' - about 3/4 inch. This allowed me to get back into place and push it (see 'bend') so the end would now enter the opening.
Then it was just a matter of applying force to get it to seat flush. My wife used a 2 ft 3/4 extension applied to the bracket and a hammer from above while I worked it from below. It seated in no time - compared to the hours some of you suffered doing this project.
It's in. It's all scratched up and not pretty, but it works.
I have a question maybe someone can answer, I was in the process of changing the exhaust manifolds the left was so rusted I had to cut it in pieces with an angle grinder to cut the nuts off the studs, in doing so I accidentally cut the dip stick tube off. I had one hell of a time pulling the old tube out, finally it came out. But the end part stayed in the block I tried an easy out it wouldn't grip so I whacked to with a hammer and instead of gripping the piece it fell into the pan. I have not been able to fish it out. My question is does anyone know if it will cause a problem if I leave it in the pan???
My feeling is it will fall to the bottom of the pan and stay there and not be an issue.
More important is the dirt and filings that could get into the oil pump and cause wear.
So change the oil at the least and take a chance, otherwise drop the pan far enough to get it with a spring loaded long grabber or a magnetic extension.
You won't get it back out of the hole in the block..
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