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Oil Dipstick Tube Replacement

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Old 09-18-2010, 01:51 AM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 30
Oil Dipstick Tube Replacement

My dipstick tube rusted and broke. I have a new dipstick tube from ford for my 1997 ford 5.4. Can the tube be installed without removing the stock manifold. It appears to be not sliding down between the manifold and block freely.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Washington
Vehicle: 1997 Ford F150
Posts: 4,917
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2 things hold it in, 1 bolt midway on block, and that dried up o-ring will be a bear. Yes you can replace it without fiddling with anything else.

good luck!

built and blueprinted Lightning powerplant with p&p heads, race built 4r70w by Darrin @ BC-Automotive
Now on 1-Tons Dyno 436/475
Transmission Saga. avoid www.Engineworldusa.com, junk import motors.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:58 AM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 30
The old dipstick tube is removed. I tried to push the new tube from the top of the engine through the opening in the exhaust manifold and the bend in the tube prevented it from going through. I didn't want to force it and end up with another broken dipstick tube. Is there any special way to feed it through the opening in the manifold?
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Old 09-18-2010, 11:09 AM
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Michigan
Vehicle: 1998 Ford F150 4.6
Posts: 129
I had the same problem with my 98. I ended up cutting the dipstick tube with a pipe cutter down by the manifold, putting the piece in that goes into the pan and then connecting the top part with a thick piece of rubber tubing. Held the whole thing together with hose clamps. It's been 2 years now. Still holding up. Can be a pita to get the dipstick back in sometimes though because the two parts of the tube aren't perfectly lined up. But it saved me the trouble of having to remove the exhaust manifold.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:13 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Easton, Pa.
Vehicle: 2002 F150 super crew
Posts: 5,207
Up on replacing my tube on a 4.6, I found the tube too long to get in place without cutting about 1" off the bottom of the tube.
There is about 3" +/- below the seal flange to work with.
You need the tube and stick to be air tight because the crankcase is part of the detection system and may set a code if the crankcase closed system has a leak to the outside.
Good luck.
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Old 09-18-2010, 10:35 PM
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 30
I got it to work. I had to cut off the bolt mounting bracket and force it from the bottom up (had to also remove the fender well). I may try to jb weld the mounting bracket on, but it is not going anywhere. I also had to use a prybar to slightly bend the tube to fit into the oil hole in the block.
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Old 05-01-2015, 10:33 PM
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Vehicle: 2003 Ford F150
Posts: 2
Thanks for the great advice!

I put the new tube in about as far as it would go without force. It was below the opening and beyond it. I measured the extra length and removed the tube and cut off the 'extra' - about 3/4 inch. This allowed me to get back into place and push it (see 'bend') so the end would now enter the opening.

Then it was just a matter of applying force to get it to seat flush. My wife used a 2 ft 3/4 extension applied to the bracket and a hammer from above while I worked it from below. It seated in no time - compared to the hours some of you suffered doing this project.

It's in. It's all scratched up and not pretty, but it works.

2003 F150 Supercrew Styleside, 4.6L
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