hahah that makes me wonder...maybe I should bend the top of my door in a little..? hmm

 

I had the same problem here. Mud bogging and bringing the window down caused small amounts of dirt to accumulate on the track/wheel. Looking at the assembly, the track does looks like it binds a bit, but after cleaning and lubing the track and wheel, it glides great. Now my drivers side is great and my passenger side is slowing down.

 

did yours bind with the window not attached to the motor? I pulled the window and exchanged it for a different one and it still does it..........put it back though because of the tint.

 

take some new motor oil in an old fashion squirt can with the window down and push the tip of the can into the window run and lube the hell out of it on both sides run the window up and down a few times.it will drip oil out the door drians for a while but you should be fixed

 

I know this is an old thread, but I had the same problem with my passenger side window after replacing the door lock actuator and found this thread while looking for answers. I figured out the problem in my case, and thought I'd share.

I had to unbolt the bottom of the window channel on the rear of the door and swing it out of the way to get the lock actuator in/out. When I put everything back together, I bolted up the bottom but neglected to notice that the back side of the window channel (facing towards the rear of the truck) has a "clip" on it that is supposed to clip behind a vertical metal tab that is welded onto the door. Basically it's sort of a C-channel where the tab on the door is in the middle of the "C" and keeps the channel from moving back or forwards.

Think of it like the "pocket clip" on a pen or mechanical pencil. The window channel is the pen, the clip on the back of the channel is the pocket clip on the pen, and the tab in the door would be like the material of the pocket on your shirt. I was only able to see this when I was sitting on the ground and looking up inside the door.

When the clip wasn't in the proper place, it was sitting /against/ the tab instead of behind it, and that was pushing the window channel inwards enough that the window was binding up on the channel when going past that part. Once I put it back in the correct position, it was fine.

I hope this helps.

 

wow thanks, i'll have to take a look..

 

I'm having the same problem, only on the drivers side door. I remember seeing a TSB about slow windows for our trucks somewhere on the web that told about a ford kit to fix it. IIRC the problem was that the window mechanism pushes outward on the inside of the door, but the doors crack in a certain place inside sometimes and cause the window assembly to have nothing to push against.

I don't remember where I found this so I could be totally wrong, but when I took my door apart to investigate my window does appear to push the inside of the door out a bit.

Also, my door has definitely been hit against something before I had the truck since it has a nice dent... that might be causing it for me too, but yeah I haven't investigated too much yet.

- Erik

 

I know this is an older thread, but I thought I would shoot this out and see what comes of it...

1997 F150 Lariat Ext Cab 4x4

My passenger side window started dragging badly and wouldnt come all the way down. I figured motor so I bought a remanufactured motor from Oriely's. Replaced the motor, same thing...

Now, here is the issue (I think), WITHOUT the motor in place, I cannot pull the window up and down easily. I can get it to move up and down but it is a fight at top and at bottom, the middle of the travel seems to be a good bit easier. Is it common for the fan-gear and track assembly to somehow get tightened up and cause this? BOTH motors seem to work fine when testing them outside of the door, but if this thing is binding or dragging somehow, even if the motors are weak, it would burn up a fresh new one in no time would it not??

Any ideas?

 

No ideas from anyone? That's a first for me on this board!

 

hey check the guides the windows run in. to do this temporary spray some wd 40 at the front of the glass and back of glass all the way down. loaded it up and give it a minute to run down inside the door. then run the window up and down and see if it helps. ford recomends a lubricate in the tracks every year. a friend of mine owns a body shop and gets me 2 ounces of a special rubber silicone for 5 bucks. let me know if this works.

 

[IMG][/IMG]You are exactly right LTDscott and this did help. I had this problem today after repairing my door lock on my drivers door of my 1999 F150. The clip is next to impossible to see other than with your fingers. After you have worked on cars long enough this is a skill you learn, seeing with your fingers.

What happens in the clip gets pulled out of position if you lean it too far forward to get it out of the way. I had to hold the guide channel with my finger on the clip so I could feel it slipping over the tab instead of behind it. Now my window runs smooth up and down again.

I was able to get some what of a picture of the clip that may help someone else under stand what they are trying to get put back in place.

Your input helped me, thank you. I hope my input helps someone else...

Thanks

Tim

 

Glad to hear I helped. Ironically, I just sold the truck which I performed this fix on last week.

 

had the exact same problem with my 2003 F150. Slow window going up and down primarily the midway point it seems to bind.
removed the door panel and tried lubricating the regulator. Noticed the motor was smoking hot after a few cycles. Decided maybe the motor was binding up.
Went through the trouble of drill the door panel to get access to the window motor and removed the motor. Took the motor apart and was not what I was wanting. EVERYTHING looked good. Grabbed the window and moved it up and down, VERY tight and extremely tight in the middle. Loosened the bolts that holds the regulator in place, I think there were four total. Moved the window up and down and it had zero effect. Someone had mentioned lubricating the rubber that the window rides against. Sprayed some WD40 from the top with the window down. That was it. I am sure there is something better to use than WD40 but it was good enough to verify the problem. So no need to do anything other than roll the window down and spray the rubber guide on the front and rear of the glass. Other window was bad not as bad, sprayed it also. cheap fix. After a little more research it seams the common fix is to use some type of silicone based lubricant that leaves behind a dry layer of silicone.

 

Random but check your gem module. And /or the voltage that is getting to your electric motor. I have had a similar problem. My gem unit is damaged somehow by moisture and is sending out low voltage to my left front window motor. Random hey

 

Someone should get a better picture of that clip thingy. I'm not sure if that's what's causing my passenger window to slow down in the middle of travel, or if the slides aren't greased.