1997 - 2003 F-150

How-To: Install Drop Shackles on your 1997-2003 F-150

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Old 09-15-2009, 04:59 PM
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Post How-To: Install Drop Shackles on your 1997-2003 F-150

Alright, time for another rediculously long and detailed write-up from yours truly. I'm a newb when it comes to suspension so if you are like me, you will understand how much it helps to have a guide to show you the right (or wrong) way of doing things. First off, this mod is pretty straightforward: It drops the rear of the truck to give it a leveled look. It does this basically like a fulcrum. The longer drop-shackles let the leaf springs ride higher into the wheel wells thus dropping the bed 1" or 2".

Disclaimer: This article is for informational purposed only. I will not be held responsible for any damage or injuries caused by attempting the following

Estimated time to complete: 45 minutes - 1 hour 30 minutes
Estimated cost: $30-$45

Tools Needed:

13/16" deep-socket*
15/16" deep socket**
1/2-inch driver
One pair of drop shackles with pre-installed polyurethane bushings
OEM Ford jack and twisting arm
Jack stands (optional)

* for 1997 & 1998 trucks
** for 1999 through 2003 trucks



1.) Starting out, lets position the vehicle so that the (preferabbly front) tires are chaulked or blocked off to prevent the vehicle rolling



2.) Pick your side. Left or right, doesn't matter, but because it was the closest as soon as I closed the door, I started out on the left.

Eye your target and learn it. Smell it. Taste it. Be it. Look at it in the eye and tell it: "YOU ARE COMING OUT OF THERE!"



3.) Jack the truck up. I recommend using a cinder block or something of the latter to raise it even higher. As for the jack point, YOU WANT TO JACK THE BODY UP, NOT THE AXLE. So I jacked on my HiddenHitch. I used the sidewalk as an added lift and jacked it all the way to maximum extension. Insert jack stands (if you have them) afterwards for safety.

4.) Break the top and bottom bolts open with your socket.





5.) Now focus your attention to the bottom bolt first. Back him all the way out. As it nears the end, it may start to resist a bit as the threads are the last part holding it in, so just attatch the socket again and continue to back it out.



As the bottom bolt pops out, it will pop or make a jerk for a second. It scared the bujeesus out of me when I first heard it but it was the 11 year-old bonds breaking loose of their constraints.

6.) Next begin to thread out the top bolt. This little flange on the other side will flip over, thereby holding the opposite nut end as you remove the bolt.



7.) Now if you look at it, the frame will be blocking the retreat of the final bolt from its resting place. Lets get back on the jack and lower it down until the bolt clears the frame in the little space under the bed.



One she backs out of there, go ahead and pull the OEM shackle out.



The difference. Also note the bushings. 11 years does a lot of damage. This new shackle should improve ride quality. Lets hope so!

8.) Installation: Since it is already at height, go ahead and place your new drop shackles in place. Deciding right now whether you want 1" or 2" of drop. If you only want 1", slide the bolt through the bottom hole. If 2", the top. Then go ahead and hold the nut/flange on the other side as you hand-screw the assembly together



9.) Now raise the truck back up. It would help to have a friend do this as you eye the closing distance, but I went all the way back to the jacks' stop. Then slide the bottom end into position. The new bushings may be a bit thicker, so a hammer or other heavy blunt object may be needed to coerce the DS into place. Hand-tighten and then use your socket to fully tighten it down. Lower all the way to the ground and note your handiwork!

Now onto the other side!

10.) This side will be a tad harder since the exhaust is in the way. But just reposition and jack all the way up. Insert jack stands for safety (if provided).

 

Last edited by Raptor05121; 09-15-2009 at 05:14 PM.
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:00 PM
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11.) Eye your next target. Let it know who is boss. Then show him his fallen comrade in your hand and let it know: "YOU ARE COMING OUT OF THERE!"



12.) Again, break both bolts open and then retreat the bottom bolt out first. As the bolt nears the end, the threads will catch. The nut on the opposing side of the bolt will fall to the ground. Don't lose it! Again, just back it all the way out with the socket.



Remove the nut to the top bolt as well. As the bottom bolt comes out, the shackle will hang there in defeat.



13.) Now lower the truck so the top bolt clears the frame.



The top one is a bit easier to remove. As you pull the top bolt out with one hand, remove the shackle with the other hand.



14.) Position your new shackle in place and reinstall the top bolt. Hand-tighten the nut.

15.) Now raise the truck BACK up (I know, I know, but this is the last time, I promise!). Have a trustworthy friend operate the jack while you slide the bottom into place. This is the most time-consuming part as the bushing is a bit bigger and needs a bit of a confidence...... smack.



Get is as close as you can!!!



16.) Slide the bolt and and with taps here and there and spin the bolt to try to get the threads to bite the other end. If you feel resistance when spinning it (clockwise, of course) just attatch your socket and ratchet away!



With the flange/nut on:



Now make sure you have FULLY tightened all of your four bolts. You really do not want to lose a shackle going down the road.

17.) Now, lower the truck and remove the jack. Stand back and apreciate a job well done!



Before:



After:



Go take your new truck for a ride. I noticed an improvement in ride quality right away. Bumps are less severe and I can feel the back end is dropped. Don't forget to readjust your mirrors. Enjoy!

-Alex
 

Last edited by Raptor05121; 09-15-2009 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:20 PM
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Bout damn time you get some! You forgot the measuring part though, and not to break your heart, but the rear is definitely lower in the after pic.

Nice job though, and did you make sure to get pinion shims?
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyd88
Bout damn time you get some!


Originally Posted by dirtyd88
You forgot the measuring part though
measuring what? the actual difference?

Originally Posted by dirtyd88
and not to break your heart, but the rear is definitely lower in the after pic.
thats the point? or are you saying lower than the front? i may step it back to 1" yet, depending on how much the bed wil hold. I might get a leaf spring helper kit soon too.

Originally Posted by dirtyd88
Nice job though, and did you make sure to get pinion shims?
are they seriously needed when doing something as subtle as DS?

From DJM: "We recommend completing the installation and test-driving before adding shims. Many vehicles will not have any vibrations so shims are not needed."

I've only taken it to 60 so far, I might go take it down I-10 for a bit to check it out though, thanks
 

Last edited by Raptor05121; 09-15-2009 at 05:36 PM.
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:32 PM
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nice job. I think it does look lower in the back but it could be the ground is at an angle.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:39 PM
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Originally Posted by che22879
nice job. I think it does look lower in the back but it could be the ground is at an angle.
Fine fine fine...here ya go:







satisfied? :o
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:43 PM
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See it was the ground! cool!
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:44 PM
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bump for admin to move to Articles and How-To section.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Raptor05121
bump for admin to move to Articles and How-To section.
It was done some time ago. We copy, not move.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 06:11 PM
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OK. Those pics are a bit better.

Well I didn't think I would ever need shims, but I guess eventually my truck came to need them.

Only problem now is the vibration is still there, and worse in some cases. It may not be the shims at all.....just hope my suspension isn't giving out on me.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyd88
OK. Those pics are a bit better.

Well I didn't think I would ever need shims, but I guess eventually my truck came to need them.

Only problem now is the vibration is still there, and worse in some cases. It may not be the shims at all.....just hope my suspension isn't giving out on me.
It would seem to me that if you put very many miles on it while needing shims, that later, they would not eliminate the vibration. The pinion, bearings, etc, may be wallowed some from the misalignment. There may be permanent wear now. I could be wrong, but seems logical to me.

That was why when mine was done and it was pronounced I did not need the shims as there was no shudder, I said no, bought the kit for the shims and I want them installed.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyd88
OK. Those pics are a bit better.

Well I didn't think I would ever need shims, but I guess eventually my truck came to need them.

Only problem now is the vibration is still there, and worse in some cases. It may not be the shims at all.....just hope my suspension isn't giving out on me.
So can you describe this vibration? I tried shifting through gears and punching in neutral and felt the same thing, I was thinking road bumps. I ran up to about 70 and I *think* I felt a vibration. I think it may be that I'm afraid there is one and since I'm actually trying to feel one that I detect it.
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Bluejay
It was done some time ago. We copy, not move.
Thanks Jim
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Raptor05121
So can you describe this vibration? I tried shifting through gears and punching in neutral and felt the same thing, I was thinking road bumps. I ran up to about 70 and I *think* I felt a vibration. I think it may be that I'm afraid there is one and since I'm actually trying to feel one that I detect it.
It feels like the rear end is wobbling back and forth. I still have not check to see if the dumb heads at Discount Tire put my wheels back on all the way, but I'm competent that know their job.
Originally Posted by Bluejay
It would seem to me that if you put very many miles on it while needing shims, that later, they would not eliminate the vibration. The pinion, bearings, etc, may be wallowed some from the misalignment. There may be permanent wear now. I could be wrong, but seems logical to me.

That was why when mine was done and it was pronounced I did not need the shims as there was no shudder, I said no, bought the kit for the shims and I want them installed.
Shoot, I hope this isn't the case. Can't exactly tell my dad I need a new pinion and such....since he doesn't know I have installed the shims, yet alone the drop shackles.... :o
 
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Old 09-15-2009, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by dirtyd88
It feels like the rear end is wobbling back and forth. I still have not check to see if the dumb heads at Discount Tire put my wheels back on all the way, but I'm competent that know their job.

Oh okay! I definately don't feel that. Whew. I got my tires from Discount Tire, pretty good place!

Shoot, I hope this isn't the case. Can't exactly tell my dad I need a new pinion and such....since he doesn't know I have installed the shims, yet alone the drop shackles.... :o
Aha, I dunno if my dad will notice unless he drives it. Even then, the truck is in my name :P
 

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