To get the door open all you have to do is take the inside panels off. Peel back the plastic liner to expose the hole above the inside ****. Put tension on that cable as you pull the **** and the door will pop right open. You may not see the cable but it is there, just reach up in there and you will get it. No need to take out the speaker unless your lower latch is broke. It takes about 10 to 15 minutes to replace the latch which cost any where from $50 to $75 depending on where you live and if you can get a discount. Dealers will try to charge you $300 to fix it. Do it yourself, its so easy!

 

I was able to fabricate in place a sleeve using quicksteel putty 2 years ago on my 97.

 

y'all rock. Thanks to the collective effort here i was able to open the rear passenger door on my f-150 again and find the source of the issue. Fixing the issue is a different story but we've got this far thanks to all.

I unlatched the top hinge by reaching in the hole after peeling back the white protective sheet and carefully pulling the upper cable far to the right. I've a 97 f-150 so the mechanism is a little different than what is shown in R8rvectors's pic but that was more than enough to go on.

The yellow clips look fine; no issue with them. However I could see straight away when pulling the handle that the cable housing itself has worn and separated which is the cause of the problem.

Will need to replace... but first i'll try Barryrod's quicksteel putty trick. The work involved with getting that cable and sleeve out of the housing looks like a pain in the **** to do.

My truck's latch details in 1k words is attached
https://www.f150online.com/forums/me...ble-issue.html

 

thanks to all for pointing me in the right direction . I was able to tense up the cable with a tie-wrap. both doors have been working for weeks.

 

I had the same problem as you guys. Door was working fine. This past Friday someone gets in the back and then has to climb out over the front seat. Read all of the above posts and made it easy to remove the bad cable and locking bracket.

I decided to try to repair it instead of spending the money to buy a new one. The cable was in perfect condition except for the fact that the boots/fittings on both ends had crumbled. I dug around Lowes and eventually found something I could use. I bought some stiff 1/4 water line. Same kind of stuff they sell as a feed into toilet tanks or sinks. I cut about 2" of this off. I sliced it lengthwise to feed the cable into it. I also trimmed a slice out of it along the long way so that I could clamp it onto the remaining cable with some zip ties.



Put it back in and it is working great. Should not be a problem until the plastic pipe or the zip ties break down if ever - I hope...

Ed

 

Ed,

I know this is from 100 years ago but thanks, the lower bit is $180 it has to be sold with the latch. I paid .16 cents for tubing and it works like new! Thank you!
KD

 

Those of you who fabricated a repair, how are you getting the cable to stay in place?

I used some "water line" to repair my upper cable, but the cable unseats from the mechanism after just 1 opening.

Any ideas?

 

I used water line and tried to make it look like the pictures, been working so far.

 

I had the same trouble with my F-150. Here is what I did. Saved me a bunch of money.

 

 

this is what I did

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGcJ...ature=youtu.be

 

Glad I found this thread.
Just bought a 2001 F150 4x4 Off-Road Supercab in beautiful condition.
Second day of driving my driver side half door would no longer open.